14+ Clay Teapot Ideas: Charming Handmade Designs to Try

This classic round teapot embodies the rustic charm of stoneware, featuring a satisfyingly bulbous body and gentle throwing rings that catch the light. The project combines functional wheel-throwing with hand-building techniques to create a piece that feels both grounded and elegant.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Throwing the Body and Lid

1. Center the main body:
   Start with about 1.5 to 2 lbs of clay for the body. Wedge it thoroughly to remove air pockets, then slap it onto the wheel head. Center the clay using steady pressure, coning up and down until it spins true.
2. Open and pull the cylinder:
   Open the centered mound, leaving a floor about 1/4 inch thick. Pull the walls upward into a cylinder, keeping the rim slightly thicker than the walls to maintain strength for the gallery.
3. Shape the belly:
   Using a rib on the inside and a sponge on the outside, gently push the belly of the pot outward to create that classic round shape. Leave subtle finger or rib marks on the exterior if you want to mimic the textured rings seen in the photo.
4. Form the gallery:
   At the rim, use the side of your finger or a specialized tool to split the rim or push it down to create a seated gallery where the lid will rest. Measure the diameter of this gallery with calipers before cutting the pot off the wheel.
5. Throw the lid:
   With a smaller lump of clay (about 0.5 lbs), throw the lid ‘off the hump’ for easier handling. Shape it like a small bowl, ensuring the outer rim matches your caliper measurements. I like to throw the knob directly on top as a closed form, but you can also attach it later.
6. Refine the lid surface:
   While the lid is spinning, use a modeling tool to create the concentric ripple pattern on the top surface. Cut the lid free and set both pieces aside to dry to leather-hard.

Step 2: Creating the Spout and Handle

1. Throw the spout:
   Using a small amount of clay, throw a tapered cylinder for the spout. It should be wider at the base and narrow at the top. Use a needle tool to cut the tip at a sharp angle to prevent dripping.
2. Shape the spout curve:
   While the clay is still plastic, gently bend the spout slightly to give it an elegant curve that compliments the round body.
3. Pull the handle slug:
   Take a carrot-sized piece of clay and pull a handle using plenty of water. Stroke the clay downward until it is long, tapered, and smooth. Lay it in a curve to set up until it becomes firm but flexible.
4. Trim the body:
   Once the body is leather-hard, center it upside down on the wheel. Trim the bottom to create a neat foot ring, mirroring the roundness of the pot’s sides.
5. Fit the lid:
   Flip the body over and test the lid fit. Use a trimming tool to make minute adjustments to the lid’s rim if it is too tight.

Step 3: Assembly and Finishing

1. Pierce the strainer:
   Hold the spout up to the body to determine placement. Lightly trace the outline, then use a small hole cutter or drill bit to create a strainer grid inside that traced area.
2. Attach the spout:
   Score the attachment area and the base of the spout thoroughly. Apply slip and press the spout firmly onto the body. Smooth the join with a small coil of clay or a wet brush.
3. Attach the handle:
   Score and slip the attachment points opposite the spout. Attach the thick top part of the handle first, blending the clay into the body. Curve the handle down and attach the tail end, ensuring there is enough room for fingers.
4. Poke the air vent:
   Use a needle tool to create a tiny steam hole in the lid, usually near the knob or hidden in the concentric rings.
5. Slow drying:
   Cover the entire teapot loosely with plastic. Uneven drying is the enemy of teapots, so let it dry very slowly over several days to prevent the spout or handle from cracking away.
6. Bisque fire:
   Once bone dry, fire the piece to bisque temperature (usually cone 04 or 06 depending on your clay body).
7. Glaze application:
   Dip or spray the teapot with a transparent or semi-transparent cream glaze. This highlights the natural speckles of the clay and the throwing rings.
8. Final firing:
   Glaze fire the piece to maturity (likely cone 5/6 or cone 10), ensuring the lid is fired separately or with wadding to prevent it from fusing shut.

Now brew your favorite loose-leaf blend and enjoy the warmth of a handmade vessel

This charming, rustic teapot features a rounded, pinch-pot constructed body and a gloriously speckled cream glaze. Its soft, organic curves and subtle warmth make it the perfect vessel for your afternoon brew.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Forming the Body

1. Prepare the Clay Balls:
   Start by wedging your speckled clay to remove air bubbles. Divide the clay into two equal balls roughly the size of large oranges. These will become the two halves of your teapot body.
2. Pinch the Pots:
   Take one ball and press your thumb into the center, gently pinching the clay between your thumb and fingers while rotating it. Aim for an even wall thickness of about 1/4 inch. Repeat this with the second ball to create two identical bowl shapes.
3. Score and Slip:
   Using your serrated rib, deeply score the rims of both pinch pots. Apply a generous amount of slip to the scored areas to act as glue.
4. Join the Halves:
   Press the two rims together firmly to form a closed hollow sphere. Wiggle them slightly to ensure a tight bond. The trapped air inside will help the pot hold its shape while you work.
5. Smooth the Seam:
   Use a wooden modeling tool or your thumb to drag clay across the seam, knitting the halves together. Follow up with a rubber kidney rib to smooth the entire surface until the join is invisible and the form is perfectly round.

Step 2: Creating Components

1. Add a Foot Ring:
   Roll a small coil of clay. Flip your sphere over and score/slip a circle on the bottom. Attach the coil, blend it onto the body, and flatten the bottom edge so the teapot sits level.
2. Cut the Lid Opening:
   Decide where the top of your teapot is. Use a needle tool to cut a circular lid opening. Slice at a 45-degree inward angle; this creates a built-in gallery so the lid won’t fall in. Remove the cut-out circle.
3. Refine the Lid:
   Take the cut-out circle and attach a small knob of clay to the center using score and slip. Smooth the edges of the lid and the rim of the teapot opening with a damp sponge.
4. Form the Spout:
   Roll a thick taper of clay. Hollow it out using the handle of a wooden spoon or by pinching carefully. Shape it into a gentle S-curve that mimics the flow of water. Cut the attachment end at an angle to fit the pot’s curve.
5. Make the Handle:
   Pull a strap handle or roll a coil and flatten it slightly. Shape it into a large ‘C’ that mirrors the curve of your spout. Allow it to firm up slightly (leather hard) before attaching.

Step 3: Assembly and Finishing

1. Attach the Spout:
   Hold the spout against the body to check placement—the tip must be higher than the lid opening to prevent spills. Trace the outline, score and slip both surfaces, and press firmly to attach. Smooth the seam with a coil if needed.
2. Pierce the Strainer:
   Before the spout is permanently sealed, use a needle tool to poke several holes through the teapot wall inside the spout attachment area. This acts as a tea strainer.
3. Attach the Handle:
   Score and slip the contact points for the handle directly opposite the spout. Press the handle on firmly, reinforcing the join with small coils if necessary. Aim for a comfortable grip that balances the visual weight of the spout.
4. Bisque Fire:
   Allow the entire piece to dry slowly under plastic for several days to prevent cracking. Once bone dry, bisque fire the teapot to Cone 04 (or according to your clay’s instructions).
5. Glaze Application:
   Wipe the bisque ware with a damp sponge to remove dust. Pour glaze inside the pot, swirl to coat, and pour out. For the outside, dip the pot or brush on 2-3 even coats of a transparent or light cream glaze that allows the clay’s natural speckles to show through.
6. Wipe the Foot:
   Carefully sponge off any glaze from the bottom foot ring and the gallery where the lid sits to prevent the parts from fusing together in the kiln.
7. Final Firing:
   Glaze fire to maturity (likely Cone 5 or 6). I always double-check that the lid is fired separately or on a stilt to ensure it doesn’t stick.

Once fired, fill your new handmade vessel with your favorite loose-leaf blend and enjoy the warmth of a job well done

This project focuses on creating a classic round-bellied teapot with a distinct, deep-fitting gallery that ensures the lid stays secure even during a steep pour. The piece features a beautiful contrast between the raw, speckled tan stoneware body and a rich forest green glaze on the upper shoulder and lid.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Throwing the Body and Gallery

1. Center and open the body:
   Begin with about 2 lbs of wedged speckled clay. Center it on the wheel head and open it up, keeping the floor relatively narrow to encourage a round, bulbous swell later on.
2. Pull the walls:
   Pull the wall into a cylinder first, ensuring even thickness from bottom to top. You want enough height to allow for the belly to expand outward without collapsing.
3. Shape the belly:
   Using a rib on the inside and a sponge on the outside, gently push the belly outward to create a spherical shape, tapering it back in at the shoulder. Leave the rim thick for the gallery.
4. Form the gallery seating:
   This is crucial for the ‘proper gallery’ concept. Split the thick rim with a wooden tool or your thumb. Push the inner wall down slightly to create a shelf (the gallery) where the lid will sit, while pulling the outer wall up to create a vertical collar.
5. Measure the opening:
   Before removing the pot from the wheel, use your calipers to measure the exact diameter of the gallery shelf (not the top rim). Lock the calipers at this measurement.

Step 2: Creating the Lid and Spout

1. Throw the lid:
   Using a smaller ball of clay (approx 0.5 lb) on a bat, throw a lid ‘off the hump’ or centered normally. Use the caliper measurement to ensure the lid’s flange fits perfectly into the teapot’s gallery.
2. Refine the lid shape:
   Curve the top of the lid gently. Throw a small, solid knob directly on top, pinching it into a mushroom shape that matches the aesthetic of the pot. Cut it off the wheel.
3. Throw the spout:
   Throw a tall, tapered cylinder without a floor for the spout. Collar the neck inwards significantly to create a narrow pouring opening. I like to make the spout slightly longer than necessary so I can trim it to the perfect angle later.
4. Dry to leather hard:
   Allow all three components (body, lid, spout) to dry to a leather-hard state. They must be stiff enough to handle without deforming but wet enough to join.

Step 3: Assembly and Decoration

1. Trim the body:
   Turn the teapot body over and trim a neat foot ring. This lifts the form visually and gives it elegance.
2. Texture the shoulder:
   Place the body back upright. Using a modeling tool or the edge of a trimming tool, carve vertical fluted lines around the shoulder area, stopping just below where the glaze line will fall.
3. Attach the spout:
   Cut the base of the spout at an angle. Hold it against the pot to check the fit; the tip of the spout should be level with the rim of the pot. Score and slip both surfaces, then press the spout firmly onto the belly. Smooth the seam.
4. Create and attach the handle:
   Pull a strap handle from a lump of clay. Attach it opposite the spout, creating a large ear-shaped curve that balances the visual weight. Ensure the attachment points are reinforced and smooth.
5. Drill the strainer:
   From the inside of the pot, use a hole cutter to drill multiple small holes into the wall where the spout connects, creating a built-in tea strainer.

Step 4: Glazing and Firing

1. Bisque fire:
   Once the teapot is bone dry, bisque fire it to cone 04 (or your clay’s specified bisque temperature).
2. Wax the gallery:
   Apply wax resist carefully to the gallery shelf on the body and the contact flange on the lid. This prevents the lid from fusing to the pot during firing.
3. Apply the green glaze:
   Dip or brush the forest green glaze onto the lid and the upper shoulder of the teapot, covering the fluted texture. The glaze should break beautifully over the high points of the fluting.
4. Clean up:
   Wipe away any green glaze that dripped below the shoulder line. The bottom half and spout remain unglazed (or matte clear) to show off the speckled clay body.
5. Final firing:
   Glaze fire the piece to the maturity temperature of your clay and glaze (likely Cone 5 or 6 for stoneware). Fire with the lid on the pot to ensure they warp together if any warping occurs.

Pour yourself a cup of tea from your new favorite vessel and enjoy the satisfaction of a perfect fit

This project features a charming, wheel-thrown teapot with a rustic speckled glaze and a distinctively short, stubby spout designed for drip-free pouring. The added wooden handle brings an earthy warmth that perfectly complements the organic feel of the ceramic.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Throwing the Body and Lid

1. Center the clay:
   Start with about 1.5 to 2 lbs of well-wedged speckled stoneware clay. Center it firmly on the wheel head, ensuring a wide enough base for stability.
2. Open and pull the form:
   Open the clay and pull the walls into a rounded, bulbous shape. Keep the belly of the pot full but taper the neck inward slightly to create a gallery (a small ledge) where the lid will sit.
3. Measure the gallery:
   Before removing the body from the wheel, use calipers to measure the exact diameter of your gallery ledge. You’ll need this measurement to throw a perfectly fitting lid.
4. Throw the lid:
   Using a smaller ball of clay (about 0.5 lb), throw the lid inverted (upside down) on a bat. Match the measurement from your calipers to ensure it seats correctly.
5. Form the knob:
   Once leather hard, trim the lid and attach a small, mushroom-shaped knob to the center using the score and slip method.

Step 2: Crafting Spout and Lugs

1. Throw the spout:
   Using a very small amount of clay, throw a short cylinder on the wheel. Taper it slightly near the top to prevent drips. It doesn’t need to be long; a stubby profile is key here.
2. Make the lugs:
   Hand-build two small clay loops or U-shaped lugs. These will hold the wooden handle later. Flatten them slightly so they conform to the curved body of the pot.
3. Trim the body:
   Once the body touches leather hard, trim the foot ring. This lifts the form and gives it elegance. I like to smooth the surface with a soft rib afterward to expose the grit in the clay.
4. Attach the spout:
   Cut the base of your thrown spout at an angle that matches the curve of the pot. Score both surfaces, apply slip, and press firmly. Use a needle tool to create the strainer holes behind the spout before fully sealing it.
5. Attach the lugs:
   Attach the two lugs strictly on opposite sides of the rim, ensuring they are level. The holes in the lugs must be large enough to accommodate the wire or hooks of your chosen wooden handle.

Step 3: Glazing and Finishing

1. Bisque fire:
   Fire all pieces to cone 04 (or your clay body’s bisque temperature). Ensure the lid is fired separately from the pot to prevent sticking.
2. Wax resist:
   Wax the foot ring, the gallery ledge, and the rim of the lid where it touches the pot. This is crucial to prevent the lid from fusing to the body during the glaze firing.
3. Apply the glaze:
   Dip the body and lid into a satin white or cream glaze. The iron specks in the clay will bleed through this lighter glaze, creating the signature spotted texture.
4. Accent the rims:
   Using a small brush, apply a rim of iron oxide wash or a toasted brown glaze to the tip of the spout, the knob, and the rim of the lid for definition.
5. Glaze fire:
   Fire the pieces to maturity (usually cone 6 or 10 for stoneware). Load the kiln carefully so the glaze doesn’t touch the shelves.
6. Attach the handle:
   Once completely cool, attach the wooden handle. Most come with wire loops; thread these through your clay lugs and twist or bend them back to secure. If the fit is loose, a dab of epoxy can stabilize it.

Now brew your favorite loose leaf tea and enjoy the ritual of pouring from your handmade creation

This project features a sleek, modern teapot characterized by its dramatic overhead loop handle and beautiful speckled glaze. The clean lines and straight sides give it a contemporary feel while the warm speckles add organic charm, making it a perfect centerpiece for your tea service.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Throwing the Body & Lid

1. Center and open:
   Begin with about 2-3 lbs of clay centered on the wheel. Open the clay to a flat interior floor, leaving about a half-inch thickness for trimming later.
2. Pull the walls:
   Pull the walls up into a cylinder first. Shape the form by pushing gently from the inside to create a slight curve, keeping the bottom portion relatively straight and vertical before curving the shoulder inward.
3. Create the gallery:
   At the rim, use a wooden tool or your thumb to split the clay and create a recessed gallery where the lid will sit. Ensure this ledge is distinct and deep enough to hold the lid securely.
4. Measure for the lid:
   Use calipers to measure the exact diameter of the gallery seating area. This measurement is crucial for a tight-fitting lid.
5. Throw the lid:
   Using a smaller amount of clay (about 1 lb), throw the lid ‘off the hump’ or centered normally. Use your caliper measurement to check the width often. Throw a simple, small knob in the center.

Step 2: Crafting Components & Assembly

1. Throw the spout:
   Throw a small, tapering cylinder for the spout. It should be wider at the base and narrow toward the pouring edge. I like to cut the rim at a slight angle while wet.
2. Extrude or pull the handle:
   For that signature loop, pull a long, thick strap of clay. Alternatively, use an extruder for a perfectly round cross-section. Bend it into a large arch shape and set it aside to firm up to leather-hard.
3. Trim the body:
   Once the body is leather-hard, trim the bottom to create a clean foot ring. Define the transition from the base to the wall for a sharp, modern silhouette.
4. Fit the lid:
   Trim the lid upside down on a chuck or directly on the wheel to remove excess weight. Test the fit in the teapot gallery repeatedly.
5. Attach the spout:
   Hold the spout up to the body to determine placement. Trace the outline, cut a hole in the teapot body (strainer holes are optional but recommended), score both surfaces with a serrated rib, apply slip, and press firmly.

Step 3: Handle Attachment & Finishing

1. Prepare handle placement:
   Identify the attachment points for the overhead handle. They should be directly opposite each other, aligned perpendicular to the spout-handle axis of a traditional pot.
2. Score and slip:
   Score the top shoulder of the pot deeply. Apply slip generously. Do the same to the ends of your leather-hard arch handle.
3. Secure the arch:
   Press the handle ends onto the shoulder. Thoroughly blend the clay seams so visual transition is seamless; the handle should look like it grows out of the pot.
4. Refine and dry:
   smooth all connections with a damp sponge or soft rib. Let the teapot dry very slowly under plastic to prevent the large handle from cracking due to uneven shrinkage.
5. Bisque fire:
   Fire the fully dry piece to cone 04 (or your clay’s specific bisque temperature).
6. Glaze application:
   Pour a matte cream glaze inside the pot and swirl to coat. Dip or spray the exterior. If using a standard clay, ensure your glaze has speckles, or rely on the iron speckles in the clay body to burn through.
7. Final wipe:
   Clean the foot ring and the gallery where the lid sits so they don’t fuse shut during firing. Wax resist can help here.
8. Glaze fire:
   Fire to the glaze’s maturity temperature (likely Cone 5-6 or 10 depending on your materials).

Once fired, brew a fresh pot of tea and enjoy the balance of your new handmade vessel

This charming mini teapot and matching cup set features a deep, galaxy-blue glaze with subtle speckling that catches the light beautifully. The exposed raw clay rims add a rustic, grounding touch to the glossy finish, making it perfect for solitary afternoon steeps.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Throwing the Forms

1. Center the clay:
   Begin with about 1.5 lbs of clay for the teapot body and 0.75 lb for the cup. Wedge well to remove air bubbles. Secure the larger lump on the wheel head and center it by coning up and pushing down until stable.
2. Throw the teapot body:
   Open the centered clay and pull up the walls into a rounded, bulbous shape. Gently belly out the form from the inside using a rib tool to get that classic spherical curve. Ensure the opening at the top is sized for your future lid—about 2-2.5 inches wide.
3. Refine the rim:
   Compress the rim well with a chamois or sponge. Create a distinct gallery inside the rim (a small shelf) where the lid will eventually sit.
4. Throw the matching cup:
   Using the smaller lump of clay, center a small mound and pull a simple cylinder. Open it gently into a rounded bowl shape that mimics the curve of the teapot body. Keep the walls even.
5. Throw the spout and lid:
   From remaining clay, throw a small, tapered cylinder for the spout. For the lid, throw a small dome shape upside down, measuring carefully with calipers to ensure it fits the teapot’s gallery perfectly.

Step 2: Trimming and Assembly

1. Initial drying:
   Allow all pieces to dry to a leather-hard state. They should be firm enough to handle without deforming but still cool to the touch.
2. Trim the foot rings:
   Place the teapot body upside down on the wheel (centered) and trim away excess clay at the base to create a neat foot ring. Repeat this process for the cup, giving it a similar foot profile to unify the set.
3. Trim the lid:
   Trim the top of the lid to your desired curve and attach a small ball of clay to form the knob.
4. Shape the spout:
   Cut the base of the spout at an angle that matches the curve of the teapot body. I like to hold it up to the pot several times to find the angle that pours best and looks visually balanced.
5. Make the handle:
   Pull a small strap handle from a lug of clay. Curve it into an ear shape and let it stiffen slightly.
6. Attach components:
   Score and slip the attachment points on the body, spout, and handle. Press the spout firmly onto the front and the handle onto the back. Smooth the seams with a modeling tool or damp sponge.
7. Drill the strainer:
   Before the clay gets too dry, use a small drill bit or needle tool to poke several holes in the teapot wall inside where the spout attaches. This acts as a built-in tea strainer.

Step 3: Glazing and Firing

1. Bisque fire:
   Let the greenware dry completely (bone dry) before loading it into the kiln for a bisque fire (usually cone 04 or 06). This prepares the clay to accept glaze.
2. Wax the rims and feet:
   Apply wax resist to the bottom foot rings of both pieces. Crucially, apply a neat line of wax to the very rim of the cup, the rim of the teapot opening, and the edge of the lid. This creates the exposed clay detail seen in the image.
3. Apply the glaze:
   Dip the teapot and cup into a deep cobalt blue reactive glaze. A quick 3-second dip usually works well. Shake off excess glaze immediately.
4. Clean up:
   Use a damp sponge to wipe any stray glaze droplets off the wax-resisted areas. The clay should be perfectly clean on the rims and feet.
5. Glaze fire:
   Load the kiln carefully, ensuring the lid is not on the teapot (fire it separately on a stilt or next to the pot). Fire to the maturity temperature of your clay and glaze, typically Cone 5 or 6 for stoneware.
6. Final check:
   Once the kiln cools, remove your pieces. Depending on the clay body, the exposed rims should be a warm, toasty brown contrasting against the speckles.

Enjoy the ritual of brewing tea in a vessel shaped by your own hands

Capture the delicate beauty of the forest floor with this hand-built or wheel-thrown teapot project. The warm, speckled clay body serves as the perfect canvas for subtle, carved fern motifs that feel both organic and elegant.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Forming the Body

1. Prepare the Clay:
   Begin by thoroughly wedging about 2-3 pounds of speckled stoneware clay to remove air bubbles and ensure an even consistency.
2. Throw or Build the Base:
   If throwing, center the clay and open it up to create a rounded belly shape. Keep the walls even, pulling them upwards and bulging them outwards gently with a rib tool. If hand-building, use the coil method to build a similar spherical shape, smoothing the coils thoroughly.
3. Refining the Shape:
   Collar the neck in slightly to create a designated gallery for the lid. Smooth the exterior with a metal rib to remove finger marks and compress the clay.
4. Create the Spout and Lid:
   Throw a separate small cone shape for the spout and a small, shallow dish for the lid. Don’t forget to create a small knob for the lid while the clay is still plastic, or attach one later.
5. Trimming:
   Once the pieces are leather hard, trim the bottom of the teapot to create a clean foot ring. Trim the lid to fit perfectly into the gallery of the pot.

Step 2: Assembly & Decoration

1. Attach the Spout:
   Hold the spout up to the body to determine the angle. Cut the spout base to fit the curve of the pot. Mark the attachment area, score both surfaces, apply slip, and press firmly to join. Smooth the seam with a coil.
2. Pierce the Strainer:
   Before the spout is permanently set, use a needle tool to poke several holes in the teapot wall inside where the spout attaches. This forms the internal tea strainer.
3. Pull and Attach Handle:
   Pull a strap of clay for the handle. Shape it into a pleasing ‘C’ curve. Score and slip the attachment points on the opposite side of the spout, ensuring it aligns visually.
4. Sketch the Design:
   Lightly trace your fern pattern onto the leather-hard surface using a pencil. The graphite will burn off, so don’t worry about mistakes. Plan for the stems to curve naturally around the round belly of the pot.
5. Carving the Leaves:
   Using a fine carving loop tool or sgraffito tool, carefully carve out the leaf shapes. I like to vary the pressure to make the leaf tips taper off gently.
6. Adding Details:
   Carve the central veins of the ferns. Be careful not to cut too deep; you just want to create a textured relief that will catch the glaze later.
7. Lid Motifs:
   Repeat a smaller version of the fern motif on the lid to tie the design together.
8. Smoothing Burrs:
   Once the carving is bone dry, gently rub the surface with a scour pad or soft sponge to remove any sharp clay crumbs or burrs left from carving.

Step 3: Firing and Glazing

1. Bisque Fire:
   Load the bone-dry greenware into the kiln and bisque fire to Cone 04 (or your clay’s specific bisque temperature).
2. Apply Glaze:
   Dip the teapot into a clear matte glaze. A transparent glaze is crucial here so the natural speckles of the clay body remain visible.
3. Wipe the Foot:
   Use a damp sponge to completely wipe any glaze off the bottom foot ring and the rim where the lid sits to prevent sticking.
4. Final Firing:
   Glaze fire the piece to the maturity temperature of your clay (typically Cone 5 or 6 for stoneware). Allow the kiln to cool completely before unloading.

Now brew your favorite tea and enjoy the warmth of your handmade creation

This charming teapot project combines classic wheel-throwing techniques with delicate slip-trailing decoration to create a piece with wonderful tactile appeal. The warm, creamy glaze highlights the raised brown swirls and dots, giving it a rustic yet refined finish perfect for your daily brew.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Throwing the Body and Components

1. Center and open:
   Begin with about 1.5 to 2 lbs of well-wedged clay on the wheel. Center it firmly and open the vessel, keeping the floor about a quarter-inch thick.
2. Pull the walls:
   Pull the walls up into a rounded belly shape, narrowing it slightly at the neck to form a gallery for the lid. Aim for a nice, bulbous form that feels balanced.
3. Refine the shape:
   Use a rib tool on the outside to smooth the surface perfectly and remove throwing lines. This smooth canvas is crucial for the slip trailing later.
4. Measure the lid seat:
   Use calipers to measure the opening of your teapot precisely before setting the body aside to firm up to leather hard.
5. Throw the lid:
   Using a smaller ball of clay and your caliper measurement, throw a lid with a small knob. I find it easiest to throw lids ‘off the hump’ if you are comfortable with that technique.
6. Throw the spout:
   Throw a small, tapering cylinder for the spout. Ensure the base is wide enough to attach to the belly and the tip is sharp for a clean pour.

Step 2: Assembly and Trimming

1. Trim the body:
   Once leather hard, trim the foot of the teapot body to create a defined lift. Make sure the bottom curve mirrors the inside curve.
2. Pull a handle:
   Pull a traditional strap handle from a lug of clay. Let it curve naturally and stiffen slightly before attaching.
3. Attach the spout:
   Cut the spout base at an angle to fit the pot’s curve. Score and slip both surfaces, attach firmly, and blend the seam. Don’t forget to drill strainer holes in the body first.
4. Attach the handle:
   Attach the handle opposite the spout, ensuring the ear height balances visually with the spout tip.

Step 3: Slip Trailing Decoration

1. Prepare the slip:
   Fill your slip trailer with the contrasting brown slip. It should be the consistency of heavy cream or yogurt—smooth and free of lumps.
2. Mark guidelines:
   Lightly trace a horizontal line around the shoulder and lower belly using a needle tool while the pot spins slowly, creating a border for your main pattern.
3. Pipe the main spirals:
   Squeeze the trailer gently to draw large, repeating spirals around the belly of the pot. Keep your hand steady and move at a consistent speed to ensure line thickness remains even.
4. Add detail dots:
   Pipe a row of small, evenly spaced dots above the top spiral line and below the bottom spiral line. These frame the central motif beautifully.
5. Decorate the lid:
   Don’t forget the lid! Pipe a smaller spiral on the top surface surrounding the knob to tie the design together.
6. Flatten peaks:
   Once the slip has stiffened but isn’t bone dry, you can gently pat down any sharp peaks on the dots with a clean finger for a smoother tactile feel.

Step 4: Glazing and Firing

1. Bisque fire:
   Load the thoroughly dried teapot into the kiln and bisque fire to cone 04 (or your clay body’s preference).
2. Apply glaze:
   Dip or pour a creamy, semi-opaque glaze over the entire piece. Avoid glazes that are too thick or runny, as they will obscure your raised slip details.
3. Clean the foot:
   Wipe the foot ring and the lid seating area completely clean of glaze to prevent the lid from sticking during firing.
4. Final firing:
   Fire to the maturation temperature of your clay and glaze (likely Cone 5 or 6 for stoneware). Allow the kiln to cool slowly.

Now brew a fresh pot of tea and enjoy the feeling of the textured swirls under your fingers

This stunning teapot project combines the raw, earthy texture of speckled stoneware with the crisp elegance of sgraffito carving. The high contrast between the deep black underglaze and the natural clay body creates a striking canvas for floral illustrations.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Forming the Body

1. Throw the Main Body:
   Begin by throwing a round, bulbous form on the wheel. Aim for a generous curve that narrows slightly at the rim. Keep the walls even to prevent cracking later.
2. Shape the Spout and Lid:
   Throw a separate spout, ensuring it tapers nicely for a good pour. Create a lid that fits recessed into the teapot’s gallery. The lid should have a slight dome shape to complement the body.
3. Trim and Assemble:
   Once the pieces are leather hard (firm but not dry), trim the foot of the pot to a rounded bottom rather than a flat cylinder. Score and slip the spout onto the body. Make sure to cut the pouring holes before attaching the spout.
4. Add Lugs:
   Create two small clay loops (lugs) and attach them securely to the shoulder of the pot on opposite sides. These will hold your cane handle later.
5. Create a Lid Knob:
   Pull or throw a small, ergonomic knob for the lid. Attach it securely to the center of the lid, blending the seam so it looks seamless.

Step 2: Applying Underglaze & Design

1. Mask the Foot:
   Use painter’s tape or wax resist to mask off the bottom third of the teapot. We want to keep this area raw and unglazed to show off the beautiful speckled clay.
2. Apply Black Underglaze:
   Apply 2-3 even coats of black underglaze to the upper two-thirds of the teapot, the spout, and the entire top surface of the lid. Let the underglaze dry until it is no longer shiny but the clay is still leather hard.
3. Sketch the Flowers:
   Lightly scratch a faint outline of your floral placement using a dull pencil. I like to place two large blooms on the main body as focal points before filling in the leaves.
4. Carve the Flower Petals:
   Using a sharp sgraffito tool, carve out the petals of the daisies. Use firm strokes to cut through the black layer to reveal the tan clay underneath. Leave thin black lines between petals for definition.
5. Carve the Leaves:
   Carve long, flowing stems and leaves that wrap around the curvature of the pot. Use a variety of leaf sizes to fill the negative space without overcrowding it.
6. Carve the Lid Pattern:
   On the lid, carve a radial sunburst pattern. Draw lines radiating from the knob to the edge of the lid, creating a geometric contrast to the organic flowers on the body.
7. Clean Up:
   Use a soft, dry brush to gently sweep away the clay crumbs (burrs) created by carving. Be careful not to smudge the black underglaze onto the raw clay areas.

Step 3: Firing and Finishing

1. Bisque Fire:
   Once the pot is bone dry, load it into the kiln for a bisque fire. This hardens the clay and prepares it for the final glazing steps.
2. Glaze the Interior:
   Pour a food-safe liner glaze (like a clear or white) into the interior of the teapot and swirl it to coat. Pour out the excess. This ensures the pot is functional and easy to clean.
3. Final Fire:
   Fire the teapot to the temperature recommended for your specific clay and glaze (usually Cone 5 or 6). Do not glaze the exterior sgraffito work; leaving it unglazed preserves the matte, tactile finish.
4. Attach the Handle:
   After the teapot has cooled completely from the kiln, attach your cane or bamboo handle to the lugs. You may need to soak the handle ends briefly in warm water to make them pliable enough to bend.

Now step back and admire how the bold black surface perfectly frames your delicate floral carvings, ready for your first brew

This stunning teapot technique, known as agateware or nerikomi, uses different colored clays wedged together to create natural, geological strata right in the body of the pot. The result is a mesmerizing, one-of-a-kind pattern of cream, coffee, and caramel tones that makes every sip of tea feel grounded and artistic.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparing the Marbled Clay

1. Prepare Clay Balls:
   Start by wedging your white clay and brown clay separately to remove air bubbles. You want roughly equal amounts, though varying the ratio slightly changes the dominance of color.
2. Stack and Slice:
   Cut both clay blocks into thick slices of varying widths. Stack them alternately—white, brown, white, brown—into a single loaf.
3. Lightly Wedge:
   Wedge the stacked clay briefly. Do not over-wedge, or the colours will blend into a muddy uniform brown. You want about 5–10 turns to swirl the layers without destroying the definition.
4. Divide the Sections:
   Slice your marbled loaf into separate balls for the body, the lid, the spout, and the handle. Check the cut surface to ensure you have distinct swirls.

Step 2: Throwing the Form

1. Center the Body:
   Take the largest ball and center it on the wheel. Center quickly and efficiently to preserve the surface pattern; excessive friction can muddy the exterior colors.
2. Open and Pull:
   Open the floor and pull up the walls into a rounded, bulbous belly shape. As you pull, you will see the striations stretching upward. Use a metal rib to gently scrape the outer slurry away to reveal the pattern.
3. Form the Gallery:
   At the rim, use a tool or your thumb to press inward and split the rim, creating a gallery (ledge) where the lid will eventually sit. Measure the diameter with calipers.
4. Throw the Lid:
   Using a smaller ball of marbled clay, throw a low dome shape. Measure constantly with your calipers to ensure it fits the gallery of the teapot body exactly. Throw a small, solid knob on top.
5. Throw the Spout:
   Throw a tall, narrow cone for the spout. I find it helpful to throw this slightly longer than needed so I can cut it to the perfect angle later. Clean the slip off the outside immediately with a rib.

Step 3: Trimming and Assembly

1. Trimming the Body:
   Once leather hard, trim the excess weight from the bottom of the teapot body. Use a sharp tool to skim off the dusty outer layer, which makes the marble pattern pop vividly.
2. Trimming the Lid:
   Trim the underside of the lid to remove excess weight and refine the fitting flange. Ensure the knob feels comfortable to grip.
3. Pull the Handle:
   Take a remaining piece of marbled clay and pull a traditional handle. Alternatively, you can extrude one, but pulling aligns the clay particles nicely. Curve it into a question-mark ear shape.
4. Attach the Spout:
   Cut the spout at an angle. Hold it to the pot body to check the silhouette. Score and slip both surfaces, then press firmly. Gently smooth the seam so it disappears into the swirling pattern.
5. Attach the Handle:
   Score and slip the handle attachment points on the opposite side. Attach the top first, then curve it down and attach the bottom tail. Check alignment to ensure the spout and handle are perfectly straight.
6. Smooth and Refine:
   Use a damp sponge to wipe away any rough edges or stray slip. Run a metal rib lightly over the entire piece one last time to remove surface grog and clarify the marble lines.

Step 4: Finishing

1. Bisque Fire:
   Allow the teapot to dry very slowly under plastic to prevent the attachments from cracking away from the body. Once bone dry, bisque fire the piece.
2. Glazing:
   Since the pattern provides all the decoration, you only need a clear glaze. Dip or spray a transparent glossy glaze. This will amplify the contrast between the cream and brown clays.
3. Final Fire:
   Fire to the maturation temperature of your specific stonewares (likely Cone 6 or Cone 10). Let the kiln cool completely before unloading.

Pour your first cup of tea and admire how the earth tones swirl uniquely around your vessel.

Embrace the warmth of natural clay with this delightful teapot project featuring a distinct two-tone aesthetic. By combining a smooth, speckled creamy glaze on top with the raw textural beauty of terracotta-colored clay below, create a piece that feels both rustic and refined.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Throwing the Body and Lid

1. Center the clay:
   Start with a ball of clay approximately 2-3 lbs on the wheel. Center it firmly, creating a low, wide mound rather than a tall tower to support the teapot’s belly shape.
2. Open and pull:
   Open the clay and pull up the walls, aiming for a rounded, bulbous form. Use a rib on the inside to push the belly out gently while supporting the outside with your hand or a sponge.
3. Create the gallery:
   At the rim, use a tool or your finger to split the clay and push down a small ledge (the gallery) where the lid will eventually sit. Ensure it is perfectly round.
4. Measurements:
   Before removing the body from the wheel, measure the inside diameter of your gallery with calipers. You will need this exact measurement for the lid.
5. Throw the lid:
   Using a smaller ball of clay, throw the lid upside down (as a small bowl shape) or right-side up depending on your preference. Ensure the flange matches your caliper measurements to fit the gallery snugly.
6. Throw the spout and handle:
   Throws a small, tapered cylinder for the spout. For the handle, either pull a strap of clay directly or roll a coil and shape it into a comfortable ear-shape curve.

Step 2: Trimming and Assembly

1. Leather hard stage:
   Allow all pieces to dry to a leather-hard state. This is crucial for clean trimming and strong attachments.
2. Trim the foot:
   Invert the teapot body on the wheel and trim the bottom. Create a defined foot ring that lifts the pot slightly, giving it a lighter visual weight.
3. Cut the spout:
   Cut the base of the spout at an angle that complements the curve of the pot’s belly. Hold it up to the pot to check the angle before attaching.
4. Drill strainer holes:
   Hold the spout in place and mark the attachment area with a needle tool. Remove the spout and drill a series of small holes inside that marked circle to act as a tea strainer.
5. Score and slip:
   Score (scratch) both the attachment points on the body and the edges of the spout and handle. Apply slip generously and press the components firmly onto the body.
6. Refine the lid:
   Trim the excess clay from the top of the lid. Attach a small, rounded knob by scoring and slipping. Don’t forget to poke a tiny steam vent hole in the lid.
7. Bisque fire:
   Let the assembled teapot dry slowly to prevent cracking, especially around the handle and spout. Once bone dry, fire it in the kiln to bisque temperature (usually cone 04).

Step 3: Glazing Technique

1. Wax the bottom:
   Apply wax resist to the bottom of the teapot and up the sides to your desired ‘dip line.’ The wax prevents glaze from sticking to the bottom section, preserving the raw clay look.
2. Glaze the interior:
   Pour the speckled cream glaze inside the teapot, swirl it around to coat every surface, and pour out the excess. Wipe any drips off the rim immediately.
3. The exterior dip:
   Holding the teapot by the foot (or using glazing tongs), dip the top half into the glaze bucket. Stop just past the halfway point where you want the two tones to meet.
4. Refining the line:
   If the dip line is uneven, you can clean it up with a damp sponge, but a slightly organic, waving line often adds character. Ensure no glaze is on the very bottom where it touches the kiln shelf.
5. Final firing:
   Fire the teapot to the maturation temperature of your clay and glaze (typically cone 5 or 6 for stoneware). The unglazed lower portion will fire to a warm matte finish, contrasting with the glossy top.

Now brew your favorite tea and enjoy the tactile contrast of smooth glaze and raw clay in your hands

Embrace sharp lines and structured elegance with this faceted geometric teapot project, showcasing crisp planes that catch the light beautifully. The angular form is softened by a warm, speckled beige glaze that adds an organic touch to the modern silhouette.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Forming the Body

1. Prepare the Slabs:
   Roll out a consistent slab of clay using your rolling pin and guide sticks to about 1/4 inch thickness. Compress the clay on both sides with a rib to align particles and prevent warping.
2. Cut the Base:
   Using a paper template, cut out a perfect hexagon for the base of your teapot. Set this aside on a ware board.
3. Cut the Diamond Panels:
   Cut out the main side panels. Based on the image, the body is formed from diamond shapes that taper at the top and bottom. You will need six of these identical diamond-shaped slabs.
4. Score and Slip:
   Score the edges of your hexagon base and the bottom edges of all your side panels. Apply slip generously.
5. Assemble the Walls:
   Attach the first side panel to the base. Repeat with the second panel, scoring and slipping the vertical seam where they meet. I like to use a small coil to reinforce the inside of each seam as I go.
6. Refine the Angles:
   Once all six walls are attached, use a paddle or straight edge to gently sharpen the corners where the planes meet. The goal is crisp, defining lines.

Step 2: Spout and Handle

1. Draft the Spout:
   Create a spout from a smaller trapped slab, folding it into a tapered triangular prism shape that matches the geometric language of the body.
2. Cut the Spout Angle:
   Hold the spout against the body to determine the correct attachment angle. Cut the base of the spout at a slant so it sits flush against one of the faceted panels.
3. Drill Strainer Holes:
   Before attaching, mark the area on the body where the spout will go. Drill several small holes inside this area to create a built-in tea strainer.
4. Attach the Spout:
   Score, slip, and firmly press the spout onto the body. Clean up excess slip immediately with a damp brush to maintain the hard edges.
5. Sculpt the Handle:
   Pull or cut a thick strap for the handle. Instead of curving it smoothly, create distinct angles—one vertical rise, a sharp 90-degree turn, and a downward slope.
6. Secure the Handle:
   Attach the handle opposite the spout. Ensure the top attachment is strong enough to support the weight of a full pot.

Step 3: Lid and Finishing

1. Measure the Opening:
   Measure the hexagonal opening at the top of your teapot body. Create a gallery (an inner ledge) inside the rim to support the lid.
2. Form the Lid Facets:
   Create a slightly domed lid slab. Using your fettling knife or a surform, carve radiating facets into the top surface, mirroring the geometry of the body.
3. Create the Knob:
   Cut a small, simple cube of clay. Attach it to the center of the lid, keeping the edges sharp.
4. Cleanup Phase:
   Once leather hard, go over every seam and plane. Use a slightly damp sponge to smooth surface texture but be careful not to round over your sharp geometric corners.
5. Bisque Fire:
   Let the piece dry slowly under plastic to prevent cracking at the seams. Bisque fire to cone 04.
6. Glazing:
   Dip or spray the teapot with a matte beige glaze containing iron speckles. Wipe the foot ring clean seamlessly.
7. Final Firing:
   Glaze fire to cone 6 (or your clay body’s maturation temperature). Ensure the lid is fired separately or with wax resist on contact points.

Brew your favorite loose leaf blend and enjoy the play of light across your handmade vessel.

This charming teapot mimics the organic form of a pumpkin with defined, fluted ridges and a perfectly petite stem knob. The speckled clay and warm, toasted accents create a cozy autumn aesthetic that feels right at home on any tea table.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Forming the Body and Lid

1. Throwing the Body:
   Center roughly 1.5 lbs of clay on the wheel. Open the clay and pull the walls up and out to create a bulbous, rounded belly shape. Keep the opening at the top somewhat narrow, roughly 3 inches wide, to form the gallery for the lid.
2. Shaping the Gallery:
   Use a rib or your finger to split the rim, creating a small internal ledge (gallery) where the lid will eventually sit. Ensure it is deep enough to hold the lid securely.
3. Refining the Curve:
   Before removing it from the wheel, use a metal or wooden rib to smooth the exterior curve, ensuring a nice full pumpkin silhouette. Wire it off and set it aside to stiffen to leather-hard.
4. Throwing the Lid:
   Using a smaller amount of clay (approx. 0.5 lbs), throw a small dome shape. Measure constantly with calipers to match the gallery of your teapot body. Leave enough clay at the top center to pull a small, solid knob.
5. Sculpting the Stem Knob:
   While throwing the lid, pinch the excess clay at the top into a short, tapered stem shape. Use a tool to gently texture vertical lines into the knob to resemble a dried pumpkin stem.

Step 2: Texturing and Assembling

1. Trimming the Foot:
   Once leather-hard, center the teapot body upside down on the wheel. Trim excess weight from the bottom and carve a neat foot ring, mirroring the roundness of the pot.
2. Mapping the Flutes:
   With the pot right-side up, lightly mark vertical lines around the body to divide it into equal segments (usually 8 or 10). I like to visualize actual pumpkin segments to get the spacing right.
3. Carving the Ridges:
   Using a loop tool or carving tool, gently carve shallow grooves along your vertical markers. Start from the collar and end just before the foot. Smooth the sharp edges with a damp sponge.
4. Matching the Lid:
   Place the lid on the pot and extend those same vertical carving lines onto the lid surface so the ridges flow seamlessly from the body to the knob.
5. Creating the Spout:
   Hand-build or throw a small spout. Gently bend it while the clay is plastic to create a slight ‘swan’ neck curve. Test the fit against the pumpkin body, trimming the attachment end at an angle.
6. Pulling the Handle:
   Pull a strap handle from a lug of clay. Give it a classic C-curve shape. Ensure the thickness complements the delicate nature of the spout.
7. Attaching Components:
   Score and slip the contact points for both the spout and handle. Attach them firmly to the body, blending the seams thoroughly. The handle should sit opposite the spout, balancing the visual weight.

Step 3: Glazing and Finishing

1. Bisque Firing:
   Allow the entire piece to dry slowly to prevent cracking, especially at the attachment points. Fire to bisque temperature (usually Cone 04-06).
2. Accenting the Grooves:
   Apply an iron oxide wash or thinned dark brown underglaze into the carved vertical grooves, around the base of the handle, and on the stem knob. Wipe away the excess with a damp sponge, leaving color only in the recesses.
3. Applying Main Glaze:
   Dip or brush a coat of matte cream or clear glaze over the entire exterior and interior. If using a speckled clay, a transparent glaze will let those lovely iron spots shine through.
4. Final Firing:
   Clean the foot ring of any glaze and fire to the clay body’s maturity temperature (e.g., Cone 5, 6, or 10 depending on your clay). Let the kiln cool completely before unloading.

Now brew your favorite chai or herbal blend and enjoy the warmth of your handmade pumpkin vessel

Bring a touch of fairy-tale charm to your tea table with this delightful ceramic cottage teapot. Featuring a speckled blue body, terraced rooftop scales, and a cozy hand-built door, this functional sculpture is as lovely to look at as it is to use.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Throwing the Form

1. Throw the Body:
   Begin by centering about 2-3 lbs of clay on your wheel. Throw a rounded, globe-like belly that tapers slightly inward at the top, leaving a wide enough opening for a lid gallery.
2. Create the Lid:
   Using calipers to measure the gallery, throw a domed lid that fits snugly. Add a sturdy knob at the center, shaping it like a chimney or finial.
3. Form the Spout:
   Throw a medium-length spout. For this ‘vine’ style, aim for a gentle S-curve. Once leather hard, cut the base at an angle to fit the curve of the pot’s belly.

Step 2: Sculpting the Details

1. Attach the Spout:
   Score and slip the attachment points on both the body and the spout. Press them firmly together, smoothing the seam with a coil of clay until invisible. Use a hole cutter to create the strainer holes behind the spout.
2. Add Handle Lugs:
   Fashion two triangular tabs from a slab. Punch a hole in each for the wire handle later. Attach these ‘ears’ securely on opposite sides of the upper shoulder.
3. Create the Roof Tiles:
   Roll out a thin slab of clay. Cut dozens of small U-shaped scales or shingles. Starting from the bottom edge of the intended roofline (mid-shoulder), attach them in overlapping rows using slip, working your way up to the lid.
4. Detail the Lid:
   Continue the shingle pattern onto the lid itself, ensuring the rows align visually with the body when the lid is seated.
5. Build the Door:
   Cut an arch shape from a thicker slab for the door frame. Score lines into a smaller arch to mimic wood grain for the door itself. Attach the door to the belly, adding a tiny clay bead for the doorknob.
6. Construct Windows:
   Make small square frames from slab strips. Place them on the sides using slip. Inside the frame, add a tiny cross of clay to represent windowpanes.
7. Floral Accents:
   Roll tiny coils for stems and leaves. Attach them near the base and windows. Add small beads of clay for flower buds.

Step 3: Glazing and Finishing

1. Bisque Fire:
   Allow the entire piece to dry slowly to prevent cracking, especially around the thick door and roof tiles. Bisque fire to Cone 04.
2. Apply Underglaze:
   Paint the main body with a deep speckled blue underglaze. I find it helpful to leave the roof area bare for now.
3. Roof and Detail Painting:
   Apply a terracotta or rust-colored underglaze to the roof tiles. Carefully paint the door and window frames with a cream or white underglaze. Use a dark wash to highlight the wood grain texture on the door.
4. Glaze and High Fire:
   Dip or brush the entire piece with a clear glossy glaze to seal it and make it food safe. Fire to the maturity temperature of your clay (likely Cone 5 or 6).
5. Attach the Handle:
   Once cool, enhance the rustic look by creating a handle from thick wire or cane. Loop it through the clay lugs and wrap the entire handle length tightly with rattan or wicker strip for that basket-weave texture.

Now you have a charming vessel ready to brew your favorite tea while sparking the imagination