Clay jewelry is one of those magical projects where a tiny bit of clay turns into something you can actually wear all week. Here are my go-to clay jewelry ideas—starting with the classics and easing into the weirder, artsy stuff once you’re warmed up.
Classic Geometric Dangle Earrings

Embrace earthy elegance with these multi-tiered geometric earrings, featuring a classic combination of circles and arches. The simple shapes allow the subtle speckled textures and warm terracotta tones to take center stage, creating a versatile accessory for any outfit.
Step-by-Step Tutorial
Materials
- Polymer clay (white, translucent, terracotta, beige/tan)
- Black pepper or dried coffee grounds (for speckling)
- Acrylic rolling pin or pasta machine
- Circle cutters (various small sizes)
- Tissue blade or craft knife
- Jump rings (gold, 6mm and 8mm)
- Earring hooks (gold)
- Hand drill or pin vibe
- Jewelry pliers (flat nose and round nose)
- Ceramic tile or baking sheet
- Parchment paper
Step 1: Preparing the Clay Palette
-
Mix the speckled cream:
Start by conditioning a block of white polymer clay until it’s soft and pliable. To achieve that organic, speckled stone look, I like to mix in a tiny pinch of black pepper or finely ground dried coffee into the clay. -
Blend the earth tones:
For the second colorway, condition your terracotta and beige clays separately. If the terracotta feels too saturated, knead in a small amount of white or translucent clay to soften the hue slightly. -
Roll out the slabs:
Using your acrylic roller or a pasta machine on a medium setting (approx. 3mm thick), roll out your clay balls into flat, even sheets. Ensure there are no air bubbles trapped underneath.
Clean Edges Trick
Place a sheet of cling wrap over your clay slab before pressing down your cutters. This creates a beautifully domed, rounded edge that requires zero sanding later.
Step 2: Cutting and Shaping
-
Cut the top circles:
Using a medium-sized circle cutter (about 1.5 cm diameter), punch out two circles from your cream slab and two from your terracotta slab. These will form the stud or top connector piece. -
Create the arches:
Cut larger circles (approx. 2.5 – 3 cm) from your clay slabs. Using your tissue blade, cut these circles in half to create semi-circles. You will need two cream arches and two terracotta arches. -
Form the bottom accents:
For the bottom-most tier, cut two smaller circles (about 1 cm) from a contrasting color—perhaps a yellow-ochre or deep tan—to dangle at the very end. -
Smooth the edges:
Gently run a finger dipped in a little cornstarch or water around the cut edges of each shape to soften any sharpness left by the cutters.
Step 3: Drilling and Baking
-
Plan hole placement:
Lay out your earring components on a tile in their final formation: Top Circle > Arch > Bottom Arch > Small Circle. Mark where the jump rings will connect them. -
Pierce the holes:
Use a needle tool or toothpick to create holes at your marked spots before baking. Alternatively, you can drill them after baking for cleaner precision. -
Bake the pieces:
Place your tile with the clay pieces into the oven. Bake according to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific brand of clay—usually around 275°F (135°C) for 30-45 minutes. -
Cool and finish:
Allow the pieces to cool completely inside the oven to prevent cracking. Once cool, lightly sand any rough edges with high-grit sandpaper if needed.
Level It Up
Add texture to the damp clay before baking using a toothbrush, sandpaper, or fabric to press a subtle pattern into the surface for a more rustic, stone-like feel.
Step 4: Assembly
-
Open the jump rings:
Using two pairs of pliers, gently twist your gold jump rings open sideways (never pull them apart outward) to preserve their circular shape. -
Connect the tiers:
Thread a jump ring through the bottom of the top circle and the top of the middle arch. Close the ring securely. Repeat for the connection between the arch and the bottom circle. -
Attach the hardware:
Open the small loop on your earring hook. Thread it through the top hole of your uppermost circle piece and close the loop tight. -
Final check:
Hold the earrings up to ensure all pieces hang facing forward. If a piece twists, double-check that your jump rings are closed flush.
Wear your new geometric dangles with a cozy sweater or a linen dress to show off your handiwork
Terrazzo Speckled Statement Earrings

Embrace the playful yet sophisticated look of terrazzo with these custom polymer clay earrings. This project features mismatched geometric shapes in a soft, earthy color palette, speckled with delicate chips for that authentic stone-like finish.
Detailed Instructions
Materials
- Polymer clay (Cream/White, Sage Green, Dusty Pink, Terracotta, Slate Blue, Black)
- Acrylic rolling pin or clay machine
- Clay cutters (1-inch circle, 1.5-inch circle)
- Small craft knife or tissue blade
- Needle tool or small drill bit
- Parchment paper or ceramic tile
- Fine-grit sandpaper (400 to 1000 grit)
- Gold jump rings (6mm)
- Gold ear wires (French hook style)
- Jewelry pliers (flat nose and round nose)
- Oven for baking
Step 1: Preparing the Terrazzo Chips
-
Condition the colors:
Start by conditioning small amounts of your colored clays—Sage Green, Dusty Pink, Terracotta, Slate Blue, and a tiny bit of Black. Knead them until they are soft and pliable. -
Create thin sheets:
Roll each colored piece of clay into a very thin sheet. You want them almost paper-thin, as chunky chips can make the final surface uneven. -
Shred the clay:
Tear the thin sheets into small, irregular fragments. For the black clay, chop it into tiny specks almost like ground pepper—this adds depth to the faux stone look. -
Set aside:
Keep these colorful piles separate on a piece of parchment paper until you are ready to assemble the slab.
Step 2: Creating the Base Slab
-
Prepare the base color:
Condition a larger block of Cream or White clay. I like to mix in a tiny pinch of translucent clay here to give it a more natural, stone-like translucency, though solid white works beautifully too. -
Mix in potential speckles:
If you want the base itself to look like granite, mix in a tiny pinch of your black ‘pepper’ specs directly into the white clay before rolling it out. -
Roll the slab:
Roll the white clay out to a medium thickness, roughly 3mm to 4mm. This will be the canvas for your terrazzo pattern. -
Apply the chips:
Gently place your torn colored fragments onto the white slab. Scatter them randomly, ensuring you leave plenty of white space between them. Don’t overthink the placement; randomness looks best. -
Embed the pattern:
Place a sheet of parchment paper over the slab preventing the roller from smearing the colors. Gently roll over the clay to press the chips flush into the base surface. -
Smooth the surface:
Roll in different directions until the surface is completely flat and smooth. The chips should stretch slightly, creating those organic shapes seen in the photo.
Smudged Colors?
If your colored chips are smearing into the white base while rolling, your clay might be too warm. Pop the slab in the fridge for 10 minutes before the final roll to keep lines crisp.
Step 3: Cutting and Baking
-
Cut the shapes:
Using your 1.5-inch circle cutter, punch out a full circle. For the second earring, punch out another circle and cut a straight line across the top to create a semi-circle or fan shape. -
Cut the posts:
Use the smaller 1-inch cutter (or even smaller, like 0.5-inch) to cut two small circles. One will be the standalone stud for the fan shape; the other attaches to the large circle. -
Pierce holes:
Use your needle tool to carefully poke holes for the jump rings. Make sure the hole is at least 2mm from the edge to prevent tearing. Remember: the fan shape needs a hole at the top, and its stud needs a hole at the bottom. -
Bake:
Place your pieces on a ceramic tile or baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake according to your clay manufacturer’s instructions (usually 275°F/135°C for 30 minutes). -
Cool down:
Let the pieces cool completely inside the oven or on a cooling rack before handling them to avoid warping.
Pro Tip: Matte Finish
After baking and sanding, rub a tiny amount of acetone on the surface with a q-tip or soft cloth. This removes fingerprints and leaves a professional, matte finish without needing glaze.
Step 4: Finishing and Assembly
-
Sand the edges:
Once cool, use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth any rough edges. You can also lightly sand the face of the earrings if any chips are still raised, then buff with a soft cloth. -
Open jump rings:
Using two pairs of pliers, twist a gold jump ring open sideways (never pull it apart). -
Connect the pieces:
Thread the jump ring through the hole in the main pendant and its corresponding top piece. Twist the ring closed securely. -
Attach findings:
Insert the gold ear wires into the top holes of the smaller circles. If you didn’t punch holes in the studs, you can glue post backs to them instead. -
Final check:
Ensure all jump rings are fully closed and the earrings hang straight. Give them a final wipe to remove any sanding dust.
Enjoy wearing your unique, handcrafted terrazzo earrings that add an artistic touch to any outfit
Marbled Clay Earrings in Soft Swirls

These teardrop earrings feature delicate swirls of soft color that mimic the look of natural agate or marble. The organic, fluid patterns create a sophisticated yet gentle aesthetic perfect for everyday wear.
Step-by-Step
Materials
- Polymer clay (peach, white, soft lavender, sage green)
- Clay rolling pin or pasta machine
- Teardrop-shaped clay cutter (approx. 1.5 inches)
- Needle tool or toothpick
- Fine-grit sandpaper (400-1000 grit)
- Small jump rings (gold finish)
- Fish hook ear wires (gold finish)
- Jewelry pliers (round nose and flat nose)
- Ceramic tile or glass sheet for baking
- Hand drill or pin vibe (optional)
Step 1: Preparing the Marble Mix
-
Condition the clay:
Start by warming up your polymer clay in your hands. Knead each color—white, peach, lavender, and sage—separately until they are soft and pliable. This step creates a smooth canvas and prevents cracking later. -
Create color snakes:
Roll each color into thin, worm-like snakes about 3 inches long. For the peach earring, you need one peach snake and two white snakes. For the cool-toned earring, use one lavender, one sage, and two white snakes. -
Twist the pair:
Gather your chosen color group (e.g., peach and white) and twist the snakes together into a single rope. It should look like a candy cane. -
Fold and roll:
Fold the twisted rope in half and roll it out into a snake again. Repeat this ‘twist, fold, roll’ action about 3-4 times. Stop before the colors completely blend into a new solid color; you want distinct streaks. -
Create a ball:
Once you are happy with the fine streaks, roll the clay into a smooth ball. This helps consolidate the pattern inside the clay mass.
Step 2: Shaping and Cutting
-
Flatten the slab:
Using your acrylic roller or pasta machine, flatten the ball into a sheet approximately 3mm thick. Roll in different directions to stretch the marble pattern organically. -
Inspect surface patterns:
look closely at your slab. If you don’t love the swirl, you can gently twist the clay once more and re-roll, but be careful not to muddy the colors. -
Cut the shapes:
Place your teardrop cutter over the section of clay with the most pleasing swirl. Press down firmly and give it a tiny wiggle to ensure it cuts all the way through to your work surface. -
Smooth the edges:
After lifting the cutter, use your finger to gently smooth the raw edges of the clay teardrop to remove any sharp lines or burrs left by the cutter. -
Pre-pierce holes:
Use a needle tool to poke a hole at the very top point of the teardrop. Ensure the hole is wide enough for your jump rings but not too close to the edge.
Clean Swirls Tip
Use more white clay than colored clay (about a 2:1 ratio). This prevents the darker colors from dominating and keeps the marble effect light and airy.
Step 3: Finishing and Assembly
-
Bake the clay:
Place the pieces on a ceramic tile and bake according to your specific clay brand’s instructions (usually around 275°F or 135°C for 15-30 minutes). -
Cool down:
Allow the pieces to cool completely in the oven with the door cracked open. This gradual cooling helps strengthen the clay. -
Sand for smoothness:
Wet your fine-grit sandpaper and gently sand the edges and surface of the cured clay. This gives that professional, stone-like finish visible in the photo. -
Wash and dry:
Briefly rinse the dust off the earrings with water and dry them thoroughly with a soft cloth. -
Open the jump rings:
Using two pairs of pliers, twist (don’t pull) the jump rings open laterally. -
Attach the hardware:
Loop the open jump ring through the hole in the clay teardrop, then slide on the loop of the fish hook ear wire. -
Close the loops:
Gently twist the jump ring back into a closed circle using your pliers, ensuring there is no gap where the hardware could slip out.
Add a Glossy Finish
For a polished stone look, coat the baked and sanded pieces with a thin layer of UV resin or glossy polyurethane varnish to make the colors pop.
Enjoy styling these versatile, lightweight earrings that carry a touch of artistic elegance.
Color-Blocked Modern Earrings

Embrace earthy tones and modern shapes with these stunning color-blocked dangle earrings. The clean lines and mix of terracotta, cream, and charcoal hues create a sophisticated piece that looks ceramic but is lightweight enough for all-day wear.
Step-by-Step Tutorial
Materials
- Polymer clay in three colors: Terracotta (burnt orange), Cream (antique white), and Charcoal (soft black)
- Clay roller or pasta machine
- Circle cutters in two sizes (approx. 15mm and 20mm)
- Sharp tissue blade or flexible clay slicer
- Hand drill or pin vibe with a small bit
- Jump rings (6mm gold)
- French hook earring wires (gold)
- Ceramic tile or baking sheet with parchment paper
- Fine grit sandpaper (400-1000 grit, optional)
- Needle nose and flat nose pliers
Step 1: Prepping and Mixing
-
Condition the clay:
Start by warming up each clay color in your hands individually. Knead and roll until the clay is pliable and free of cracks. This ensures the final pieces are durable and not brittle. -
Roll out sheets:
Using your acrylic roller or setting your pasta machine to a medium thickness (around 2-3mm), roll out sheets of the terracotta, cream, and charcoal clay. Aim for uniform thickness across all colors so the pieces hang evenly.
Dirty Seams?
If smudging occurs when joining colors (like black bleeding into cream), wipe the lighter clay gently with a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol before baking.
Step 2: Creating the Color Blocks
-
Construct the middle tier:
For the two-tone middle circles, use your blade to cut a straight line across the terracotta and cream sheets. Press the two straight edges together gently on your work surface to create a seamless bond. -
Smooth the seam:
Gently roll over the joined seam with your acrylic roller. I like to flip the sheet over and roll the back, too, ensuring the bond is strong without distorting the straight line. -
Construct the bottom tier:
Repeat the joining process for the bottom rectangles using the charcoal and terracotta clay. Join straight edges, creating a striped sheet of black and orange.
Smooth Seams Trick
To ensure the joined clay pieces don’t separate, rub a tiny bit of liquid clay or ‘Bake & Bond’ on the raw edges before pressing them together.
Step 3: Cutting and Refining
-
Cut the top circles:
Use your smaller circle cutter on the solid terracotta sheet to punch out two circles. These will form the top stud or hanger section. -
Cut the middle circles:
Position your larger circle cutter over the terracotta-cream joined sheet. Center the seam horizontally so the circle is half orange, half white, and press down firmly to cut. -
Cut the rectangles:
Use your tissue blade to freehand cut two identical rectangles from the charcoal-terracotta sheet. Alternatively, use a rectangular cutter. Ideally, the seam should run vertically down the center. -
Smooth edges:
Gently run your finger along the cut edges of all pieces to smooth out any harsh lines or fingerprints before baking.
Step 4: Baking and Assembly
-
Pierce the holes:
Before baking, use a needle tool or toothpick to poke holes for the jump rings. The top circle needs holes at 12 and 6 o’clock. The middle circle needs holes at 12 and 6 o’clock. The bottom rectangle primarily needs a hole at the top center. Ensure the holes are large enough for your jump rings. -
Bake the pieces:
Arrangement the clay shapes on a ceramic tile or baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake according to your specific clay brand’s manufacturer instructions (usually 275°F/135°C for 30 minutes). -
Cool and sand:
Let the pieces cool completely. If any edges are rough, wet sand them lightly with 400-grit sandpaper for a professional finish. -
Connect top and middle:
Using two pairs of pliers, twist open a jump ring. Connect the bottom of the solid terracotta circle to the top of the split-color circle. Close the ring securely. -
Attach the bottom tier:
Use another jump ring to connect the bottom of the split-circle to the top of the rectangular piece. -
Add the hardware:
Finally, attach the French hook ear wire to the very top of the solid terracotta circle using a small jump ring. Repeat the assembly steps for the second earring.
Enjoy styling these versatile geometric beauties with your favorite casual outfits
Textured Clay Pendants With Stamped Patterns

This earthy, bohemian pendant features delicate stamped textures and a creamy, natural finish that mimics the look of bone or stone. Using simple household items as stamps, you can create a sophisticated design that feels both modern and hand-crafted.
How-To Guide
Materials
- White polymer clay (or air-dry clay)
- Hemp cord or suede lace
- Rolling pin or pasta machine
- Oval clay cutter (medium to large size)
- Jump ring (silver or gold)
- Small straw or cocktail stick (for piercing)
- Texture tools: toothpick, small screw, pen cap, lace, or specific clay stamps
- Sandpaper (fine grit)
- Matte varnish (optional)
- Pliers (for the jump ring)
Step 1: Preparation & Shaping
-
Condition the clay:
Start by taking a block of white polymer clay. Knead it thoroughly in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and warm. This conditioning step prevents cracks later on. -
Roll out the slab:
Using your rolling pin or a pasta machine, create a smooth slab of clay. Aim for a thickness of about 4-5mm; you want it sturdy enough to hold the impressions without losing its shape. -
Cut the oval:
Place your oval cutter firmly onto the clay slab and press down to cut out your base shape. If you don’t have a cutter, you can trace a paper template with a craft knife. -
Smooth the edges:
Gently run your finger dipped in a little cornstarch or water around the raw edges of the oval to soften any sharp cut marks.
Step 2: Texturing the Surface
-
Plan your zones:
Visualize the oval split vertically. The design relies on asymmetry, so we will create a central divider first. -
Create the central stripe:
Using a flat modeling tool or the edge of a ruler, gently press two parallel vertical lines down the center-right of the oval. This creates a distinct channel. -
Fill the channel pattern:
Inside that channel, press a textured object—like the thread of a long screw or a rope-texture stamp—to create diagonal hatch marks. -
Stamp the sunburst:
In the bottom left area, press a round object (like a pen cap) to make a circle. Using a cocktail stick or knife tip, make radiating lines outward from the center of that circle to form a stylized flower or sun. -
Add dot details:
Take a blunt tool or a toothpick and poke a series of varying-sized dots in the open space on the left side. Scatter them randomly for an organic feel. -
Add leaf impressions:
Above the dots on the left, use a small leaf-shaped stamp or press the side of a needle tool to create a fern-like pattern. -
Texture the right side:
On the right side of the central stripe, use a different texture tool (perhaps the edge of a credit card or a specific geometric stamp) to create a segmented arc pattern. -
Create the hole:
Use a small straw to punch a clean hole near the top of the oval, slightly off-center to balance the weight if the design feels heavier on one side, though centered usually works best for ovals.
Fixing “Fingerprints”
If you see fingerprint smudges on your raw clay, lightly brush them with a tiny amount of baby oil or cornstarch before texturing to smooth them away instantly.
Step 3: Finishing & Assembly
-
Bake or dry:
If using polymer clay, bake according to the manufacturer’s instructions (usually 275°F/135°C for 15-30 minutes). If using air-dry clay, let it sit in a cool, dry place for 24-48 hours. -
Sand for smoothness:
Once fully cured and cooled, take fine-grit sandpaper and lightly buff the edges and the surface. I find this gives the piece that high-end, bone-like finish shown in the photo. -
Attach the hardware:
Open a jump ring with your pliers using a twisting motion. Thread it through the hole in the clay and close it securely. -
Prepare the cord:
Cut a length of hemp cord or suede lace. Fold it in half to find the center loop. -
Create a lark’s head knot:
Push the folded loop of the cord through the jump ring. Then, pull the loose ends of the cord through that loop and tighten it down to secure the pendant. -
Optional braid detail:
For extra texture, you can braid three strands of thin hemp cord together before attaching the pendant, creating a thicker, more tactile necklace.
Pro Stamp Hack
Don’t buy expensive stamps! Look for buttons, old jewelry, or heavily textured fabrics like lace or burlap. Pressing these into clay creates amazing, unique patterns.
Now you have a stunning, nature-inspired pendant ready to wear or gift.
Clay Bead Necklaces With Mixed Shapes

Embrace earthy elegance with this hand-rolled clay bead necklace, featuring a soothing palette of terracotta, cream, and speckled stone textures. The combination of varied bead shapes—from perfect spheres to flattened discs and ribbed cylinders—strung on natural cord creates a piece that feels both modern and timelessly grounded.
Detailed Instructions
Materials
- Polymer clay (white, beige, terracotta, peach, granite/speckled effect)
- Faux suede or leather cord (beige or light tan)
- Silver clasp and jump rings
- Toothpicks or a bead piercing tool
- Sandpaper or a nail file (fine grit)
- Clean work surface (ceramic tile or glass)
- Oven for baking
- Acrylic roller or pasta machine (optional)
- Needle tool or awl for texturing
- Salt or coarse sand (for artificial speckling, optional)
- Gloss or matte varnish (optional)
Step 1: Preparing the Clay Colors
-
Condition the clay:
Start by warming up each block of polymer clay in your hands. Knead them until they are soft and pliable to prevent cracking later. -
Mix custom shades:
To achieve the organic look, mix a little beige into your white clay for an off-white bone color. Mix some terracotta with peach to get varied warm earth tones. Leave the granite or speckled clay as is. -
Create speckled effects manually:
If you don’t have pre-speckled clay, take a small amount of black clay, chop it into tiny, dust-like crumbs, and knead it into your white or beige clay. Alternatively, mix in coarse black pepper or dried coffee grounds for a natural texture.
Fingerprint Fix
Before baking, lightly brush your raw beads with a little cornstarch or baby powder. This smooths out fingerprints and helps remove any surface shine.
Step 2: Shaping the Beads
-
Roll the spheres:
Pinch off varying amounts of clay to create spheres of different sizes. Aim for a few large focal beads (about 2cm diameter) and graduate down to smaller spacer beads. -
Make the ribbed beads:
Roll a ball of beige clay, then gently flatten the top and bottom to create a squat cylinder. Use a needle tool or the side of a toothpick to press horizontal lines around the circumference, creating a carved wood look. -
Form the flat discs:
Create small balls of terracotta and wood-tone clay, then press them flat between your thumb and forefinger or against your work surface to make disc spacers. -
Create porous texture:
For the lava-rock style beads, roll a ball of clay and then poke it repeatedly with a coarse brush, a crumpled ball of foil, or a needle tool to create a pitted, porous surface. -
Make double-ring spacers:
Roll two small snakes of terracotta clay and form them into rings. Press two rings gently together side-by-side to create the doubled-up spacer beads seen near the center.
Scent Diffuser
Make the porous ‘lava’ style beads using terracotta air-dry clay instead of polymer. After drying, you can add drops of essential oil to them.
Step 3: Piercing and Baking
-
Pierce the holes:
Using your bead piercing tool or a toothpick, gently bore a hole through the center of each bead. Twist the tool as you push to avoid squashing the bead’s shape. -
Check hole size:
Ensure the holes are wide enough to accommodate your suede cord. I usually wiggle the toothpick around a bit to widen them slightly more than needed, as they can shrink minimally. -
Bake the beads:
Arrange your beads on a baking sheet or tile. Bake according to your polymer clay manufacturer’s instructions (typically around 110°C/230°F for 30 minutes). Let them cool completely before handling.
Step 4: Assembly
-
Prepare the cord:
Cut a generous length of faux suede cord, about 30 inches, depending on how low you want the necklace to hang. -
Plan your layout:
Lay out your cooled beads on a table to finalize the pattern. Start with the largest speckled bead in the center and work symmetrically outwards, alternating shapes and colors. -
String the beads:
Thread the cord through your planned sequence. If the cord end frays, wrap a tiny piece of tape around the tip to make a stiff ‘needle’. -
Secure the beads:
Tie a simple overhand knot in the cord immediately after the last bead on each side. This keeps the beads centered and adds a decorative touch. -
Attach the clasp:
At the ends of the cord, fold the cord over a jump ring and secure it by wrapping with thread or using a crimp end designed for suede cords. Attach your silver clasp to the jump rings.
Wear your new earthy creation with a simple linen top to let natural textures really shine
Clay Charm Bracelets With Tiny Cutouts

Create a delicate and personal accessory by combining metal chain with handmade polymer clay charms. This bracelet features tiny, textured cutouts in warm terra cotta and teal tones, hanging sweetly with golden accents for a playful yet elegant finish.
Step-by-Step
Materials
- Polymer clay (terra cotta/rust orange and deep teal blue)
- Gold-toned chain bracelet with clasp (or chain spool + jump rings + clasp)
- Small gold jump rings (4-6mm)
- Tiny gold star charm
- Rolling pin or pasta machine
- Small circle cutters (approx. 10-15mm)
- Small heart cutter (approx. 15mm)
- Needle tool or toothpick
- Tiny stylized stamp (for the smile face) or sculpting tool
- Letter stamps (optional, for ‘PAYOY’ or similar text)
- Parchment paper
- Baking sheet
- Jewelry pliers (flat nose and round nose)
- Gloss varnish (optional)
Step 1: Shaping the Clay Base
-
Condition the terra cotta clay:
Begin by warming the terra cotta colored clay in your hands, kneading it until it is soft and pliable. This prevents cracks later on. -
Roll out the slab:
Use your acrylic roller or pasta machine to roll the terra cotta clay into a thin, even sheet, roughly 2-3mm thick. Aim for a thickness that feels sturdy but not bulky. -
Cut the shapes:
Press your small cutters firmly into the clay. You’ll need two circles and one heart from this color. Peel away the excess clay carefully. -
Repeat with teal clay:
Clean your roller, then condition and roll out the teal blue clay to the same thickness. Cut out one small circle from this color. -
Smooth the edges:
I like to gently run a fingertip along the cut edge of each shape to soften any sharp ridges left by the cutter.
Fingerprint Fixer
Before baking, lightly brush your clay pieces with a tiny amount of baby oil or cornstarch to smooth away any accidental fingerprints.
Step 2: Adding Details & Texture
-
Create the smiley face:
On one terra cotta circle, press a tiny curved tool or bent wire to create a smile. Use a needle tool to poke two small eyes above it. -
texture the teal charm:
On the teal circle, use a needle tool or small ball stylus to press random indentations all over the surface, giving it a porous, cookie-like texture. -
Stamp the heart:
Take your heart shape and gently press your letter stamps into the surface. If you don’t have stamps, you can carefully etch a word or pattern with a needle tool. -
Add abstract lines:
On the remaining terra cotta circle, use your needle tool to draw a simple curved line across the center and a small dot for abstract visual interest. -
Pierce jump ring holes:
Use a needle tool or toothpick to poke a hole near the top edge of each charm. Make sure the hole is large enough for your jump rings but not too close to the edge.
Pro Tip: Hole Placement
Twist your needle tool as you pierce the holes to prevent the clay from puckering. Pierce halfway, flip the charm, and pierce from the back for a clean hole.
Step 3: Baking & Assembly
-
Bake the charms:
Arrange your charms on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake according to your specific brand of polymer clay’s instructions (usually around 275°F/135°C for 15-30 minutes). -
Cool completely:
Allow the charms to cool fully before handling. They are slightly flexible when warm but harden as they cool. -
Prepare the chain:
Lay your gold chain flat on your work surface. If you are making the chain from scratch, cut it to your wrist size and attach the clasp using jump rings. -
Open jump rings:
Using two pairs of pliers, twist open a jump ring laterally (side-to-side, never pull apart). Thread it through the hole of your teal charm. -
Attach first charm:
Loop the open jump ring onto a link near one end of the chain and close it securely using your pliers. -
Add the metal star:
To mimic the look in the photo, you can layer a small metal star charm over a clay circle, or attach it independently. Here, attach the gold star charm to the far end of the bracelet. -
Attach remaining charms:
Space out the terra cotta charms evenly along the chain length. Attach each one with its own jump ring, ensuring they all face the same direction. -
Final check:
Hold the bracelet up and give it a gentle shake to ensure all jump rings are fully closed and the charms hang freely without tangling.
Now you have a charming, custom piece of jewelry ready to wear or gift.
Stacked Clay Disc Earrings With Jump Rings

These elegant dangle earrings feature a cascading stack of polymer clay discs in a warm, desert-inspired color palette. The simple geometric design combined with connecting jump rings creates playful movement and a modern aesthetic perfect for everyday wear.
Step-by-Step Tutorial
Materials
- Polymer clay in rust/terracotta, peach/beige, and cream colors
- Rolling pin or pasta machine
- Small circle cutter (approx. 1-1.5 cm diameter)
- Needle tool or toothpick
- Parchment paper or ceramic tile for baking
- Small gold jump rings (6mm or 7mm)
- Gold earring hooks (fishhook style)
- Jewelry pliers (flat nose and round nose)
- Fine grit sandpaper (optional)
Step 1: Preparing the Clay Discs
-
Condition the Clay:
Begin by kneading each color of polymer clay—rust, peach, and cream—individually until they are soft and pliable. This conditioning step prevents cracking later on. -
Roll Out the Slabs:
Roll each color into a flat sheet, aiming for a consistent thickness of about 2-3mm. A pasta machine is ideal for uniformity, but a rolling pin with thickness guides works perfectly too. -
Cut the Circles:
Using your small circle cutter, punch out your distinct shapes. For this specific design, you need four rust circles, two peach circles, and two cream circles total for the pair. -
Smooth the Edges:
Before baking, gently run your finger around the edge of each cut circle to soften any sharp ridges left by the cutter. This saves you sanding time later. -
Create Connection Holes:
Use a needle tool to pierce holes for the jump rings. The top rust circle needs a hole at the very top and very bottom. The middle peach and cream circles need top and bottom holes as well. The bottom rust circle only needs one hole at the top.
Step 2: Baking and Finishing
-
Arrange for Baking:
Place your clay pieces on a parchment-lined baking sheet or a ceramic tile. Ensure they lie perfectly flat so they don’t warp during the curing process. -
Bake:
Bake the pieces according to your specific brand of clay’s instructions—usually around 275°F (130°C) for 15-30 minutes. Let them cool completely before handling. -
Light Sanding:
Once cool, inspect your circles. If there are any rough spots or fingerprints, I like to lightly buff them with fine-grit sandpaper or a piece of denim for a smooth, matte finish.
Hole Placement Fix
If a hole is too close to the edge and breaks, don’t toss it. Bake it, then fill the break with liquid clay and a tiny bit of raw clay, re-pierce carefully, and bake again.
Step 3: Assembling the Stack
-
Open Jump Rings:
Using two pairs of pliers, twist your gold jump rings open sideways (never pull them apart outward) to preserve their circular shape. -
Connect Bottom Pieces:
Start from the bottom. Thread an open jump ring through the hole of the bottom rust circle and the bottom hole of the cream circle, then close the ring securely. -
Add the Peach Layer:
Use another jump ring to connect the top of the cream circle to the bottom of the peach circle. Ensure the jump rings are closed tightly so the lightweight discs don’t slip out. -
Attach the Top Circle:
Connect the top of the peach circle to the bottom of the top rust circle with a third jump ring. -
Finish with Earring Hook:
Finally, attach the earring hook to the very top hole of the first rust circle using either the hook’s own loop (if openable) or a small separate jump ring. -
Repeat:
Follow the same assembly steps for the second earring to complete your matching set.
Texture Twist
Before cutting your circles, gently press a piece of coarse sandpaper or fabric onto the raw clay slab to give your earrings a stone-like, organic surface texture.
Enjoy wearing your new handcrafted earrings that bring a touch of earthy elegance to any outfit
Faux Stone Clay Jewelry in Agate-Inspired Colors

Create a stunning jewelry set that mimics the delicate swirl of pink agate using polymer clay. This faux stone technique combines translucent layers, soft rose tones, and gold mica accents to achieve a high-end, polished look without needing a lapidary wheel.
Step-by-Step Guide
Materials
- Polymer clay (White, Translucent, Rose Pink, Dusty Pink)
- Gold alcohol ink or gold mica powder
- Gold leaf flakes (optional)
- Acrylic roller or pasta machine
- Tissue blade (rigid and flexible)
- Oval and circle clay cutters
- Hand drill or pin vibe
- Gold jewelry findings (jump rings, ear wires, necklace chain, bail)
- Jewelry pliers (round nose and flat nose)
- Wet/dry sandpaper (400 to 2000 grit)
- UV resin or gloss varnish (optional for finish)
- Tile or baking sheet
Step 1: Creating the Agate Slab
-
Condition the Clay:
Begin by conditioning all your clay colors separately until they are soft and pliable. You will need roughly equal parts of white, translucent, and your two pink shades. -
Chop and Mix:
Roll each color into a rough log. Using your tissue blade, chop the logs into small, irregular chunks. This randomness is key to a natural stone look. -
Adding the Sparkle:
Sprinkle gold mica powder or add a few drops of metallic gold alcohol ink over the chopped clay pile. If you want extra texture, tear up small bits of gold leaf and mix them in now. -
Form the Block:
Squeeze all the chopped pieces together into a tight, solid block. Compress it firmly with your hands to remove air pockets, but try not to blend the colors too much just yet. -
Twist and Manipulate:
Twist the block like a towel to start swirling the colors. Fold it in half and twist again. Repeat this 2-3 times, but be careful not to over-mix, or the colors will turn muddy instead of distinct veins. -
Roll the Slab:
Using your acrylic roller or pasta machine, roll the mixed block out into a sheet approximately 3mm to 4mm thick. This reveals the beautiful internal marbling. -
Select the Patterns:
Examine your slab for the most pleasing swirls. Look for areas with nice contrast between the pinks and the white veins.
Don’t Flatten the Magic
Use a light hand when rolling the final slab. Excessive pressure can squish the delicate ‘veins’ of the stone pattern, making them look blurry rather than crisp.
Step 2: Cutting and Baking
-
Cut the Pendant:
Place a piece of plastic wrap over the clay (this creates a nice domed edge) and use your oval cutter to intricate the large pendant shape. -
Cut the Earrings:
Using the same plastic wrap method, cut two matching circles for the earrings. Check that the pattern on the earrings complements the pendant. -
Smooth the Edges:
Gently remove the cut pieces and smooth any rough edges with your finger. If fingerprints appear, lightly brush them with a little cornstarch or water. -
Create Holes:
Use a needle tool or toothpick to pierce holes for the jump rings. For the pendant, place the hole at the top center. For the earrings, place holes near the top edge. -
Bake:
Place the pieces on a ceramic tile or baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake according to your polymer clay manufacturer’s instructions (usually 275°F/130°C for 30 minutes).
Step 3: Finishing and Assembly
-
Sanding:
Once cooled, wet sand the edges and surfaces starting with 400 grit and working up to 2000 grit. This reveals the depth of the translucent clay and mimics polished stone. -
Buffing (Optional):
For a glass-like shine, buff the pieces vigorously with a soft cloth or a Dremel with a buffing wheel for a high-gloss finish. -
Seal (Optional):
If you prefer a coated look or used surface powders, apply a thin layer of UV resin or gloss varnish and cure/dry completely. -
Assemble the Pendant:
Open a large jump ring or a pinch bail using your pliers. Thread it through the pendant hole and attach it to your gold necklace chain. -
Assemble the Earrings:
Open small jump rings and connect the clay circles to the gold ear wires. Ensure the loops are closed tightly so the clay doesn’t slip off.
Gilded Edge Details
For a luxe finish, paint the raw edges of your baked pieces with gold liquid leaf or a gold paint pen. It frames the ‘stone’ and hides any sanding imperfections.
Wear your new faux agate set with pride or gift it to someone special who loves natural textures
Faux Geode Slice Pendants With Crystal-Like Centers

Capture the raw beauty of natural agate with this stunning faux geode pendant crafted from polymer clay. Featuring translucent layers, a sparkling crystal-like center, and a luxurious gold-leafed rim, this piece is an elegant addition to any jewelry collection.
Step-by-Step Tutorial
Materials
- Translucent polymer clay (white or uncolored)
- Opaque pink polymer clay (soft rose shade)
- Alcohol inks (pink, magenta)
- Liquid polymer clay (translucent)
- Coarse glitter (white, clear, or iridescent)
- Glass micro-beads or tiny quartz chips
- Gold leaf or liquid gold gilding paint
- UV resin or high-gloss polyurethane varnish
- UV lamp (if using UV resin)
- Pasta machine or acrylic roller
- Scalpel or craft knife
- Small round cutter or freehand shaping tools
- Jewelry bail (gold finish)
- Super glue (E6000 or similar)
- Texture sponge or toothbrush
- Oven for baking
Step 1: Creating the Agate Layers
-
Mix Translucent Shades:
Begin by conditioning your translucent clay. Divide it into three small portions. Keep one portion pure translucent, mix the second with a tiny drop of pink alcohol ink for a pale tint, and the third with a bit more ink for a medium pink shade. -
Prepare the opaque Core:
Take a small amount of opaque pink clay and roll it into a thin snake. This will act as the outer definition for the inner geode rings. -
Layer the Colors:
Roll all your clay portions into thin sheets using a pasta machine or acrylic roller. Stack them in an irregular pattern: white translucent, pale pink translucent, opaque pink, and medium translucent. Repeat this stacking until you have a thick, stratified block. -
Distort the Layers:
Gently twist and compress the block to create the organic, wavy lines found in natural stone. I prefer to roll the block into a cylinder and then flatten it slightly to stretch the layers. -
Slice the Slab:
Using a sharp tissue blade, slice thin cross-sections from your distorted clay log. Look for the slice with the most interesting concentric banding pattern.
Cloudy crystals?
If your center looks dull, you likely used too much opaque glitter. Stick to iridescent glitter or clear crushed glass to maintain that glassy, see-through rock effect.
Step 2: Shaping and Texturing
-
Form the Pendant Shape:
Select your best slice and trim it into an organic oval or teardrop shape. Use your fingers to smooth and slightly bevel the edges downward. -
Create the Geode Cavity:
Using a small tool or your finger, press down into the center of the slice to create a shallow depression. This area will eventually hold the crystals. Don’t push all the way through. -
Texture the Rim:
Take a texture sponge, toothbrush, or crumpled foil and tap it aggressively against the outer rim of the clay. This replicates the rough, rocky exterior of a real agate nodule. -
Make the Crystal Paste:
In a small mixing cup, combine translucent liquid polymer clay with coarser glitter and glass micro-beads. The mixture should be thick and grainy, like wet sand. -
Fill the Center:
Carefully scoop the crystal mixture into the central depression you created earlier. Mound it up slightly in the middle to mimic natural formation growth. -
First Bake:
Bake the piece according to your clay manufacturer’s instructions (usually 275°F/130°C for 30 minutes). Let it cool completely.
Depth perception
For hyper-realistic depth, mix a tiny drop of translucent amber ink into the crystal paste. This mimics the mineral deposits often found in real geodes.
Step 3: Finishing Touches
-
Apply the Resin Coat:
Coat the top surface of the cured clay with a layer of UV resin or gloss varnish. Avoid the textured outer rim. Cure under a UV lamp or let dry to enhance the stone’s depth. -
Highlight the Geode Center:
If the center needs more sparkle after resin, add a tiny dot of fresh resin and sprinkle a few larger ‘crystal’ chips or glitter flakes right on top, then cure again. -
Gild the Edges:
Using a small brush, carefully apply liquid gold leaf or gilding paint to the rough, textured rim. Allow the gold to intentionally bleed slightly onto the top face of the pendant for an organic look. -
Attach the Bail:
Once the gilding is dry, apply strong jewelry glue (like E6000) to the flat pad of a gold bail and attach it securely to the back of the pendant at the top. -
Final Polish:
Inspect the back of the pendant. If necessary, sand it smooth or add a thin layer of resin to seal it against the skin.
Your sophisticated faux stone pendant is now ready to catch the light and start conversations
Metallic Accent Earrings With Foil Details

Achieve a sophisticated, modern look with these slate-grey polymer clay earrings scattered with luxurious gold leaf flakes. This project combines the raw, stone-like texture of dark clay with the brilliant shine of metallic foil for an accessory that feels both organic and refined.
How-To Guide
Materials
- Dark grey or black polymer clay (e.g., Fimo or Sculpey)
- Gold leaf flakes or foil sheets
- Teardrop clay cutter (approx. 1.5 inches)
- Acrylic rolling pin
- Parchment paper or ceramic tile work surface
- Tweezers
- Hand drill or small pin tool
- Fine-grit wet/dry sandpaper (400-800 grit)
- Gloss or matte varnish (optional)
- 2 Gold fishhook ear wires
- 4 Gold jump rings (4mm-6mm)
- Jewelry pliers (flat nose and round nose)
Step 1: Prepping and Conditioning
-
Condition the Clay:
Begin by warming the dark grey polymer clay in your hands. Knead and roll it repeatedly until it becomes pliable and soft, which prevents cracking later. -
Roll Out the Slab:
Using your acrylic rolling pin on a piece of parchment paper, roll the clay out to an even thickness of about 3mm (1/8 inch). Ensure the surface is smooth and free of fingerprints. -
Prepare Gold Leaf:
If you are using a sheet of gold leaf rather than flakes, gently tear off small, uneven pieces. You want them to look jagged and organic, not like uniform squares.
Static Control
Gold leaf is incredibly light and static-prone. Rub a dryer sheet on your tweezers before picking up the foil to prevent it from sticking to the tool instead of the clay.
Step 2: Applying Design & Cutting
-
Apply the Foil:
Using tweezers, gently pick up the gold flakes and place them onto the rolled-out clay slab. Scatter them randomly—some clusters, some isolated specks—to mimic natural mineral veins. -
Embed the Foil:
Place a fresh piece of parchment paper over the clay and foil. Gently roll over it with your roller once or twice. This presses the foil ensuring it is flush with the clay surface. -
Cut the Shapes:
Position your teardrop cutter over an area of the slab with a pleasing arrangement of gold specs. Press down firmly to cut your shapes. -
Smooth the Edges:
Carefully lift the cut shapes. Use your fingertip to very gently smooth the cut edges of the clay to remove any sharp ridges left by the cutter. -
Create Holes:
Using a pin tool or toothpick, poke a hole near the top narrow point of each teardrop. Make sure the hole is large enough for your jump rings but not too close to the edge.
Step 3: Baking & Finishing
-
Bake the Pieces:
Place your clay pieces on a ceramic tile or baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake according to the specific temperature and time directions on your package of clay. -
Cool Down:
Allow the pieces to cool completely inside the oven or on a wire rack before handling them, as warm clay is still fragile. -
Sand and Buff:
Once cool, use a bit of water and fine-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the edges and back of the earrings for a professional finish. Avoid sanding heavily over the gold leaf. -
Seal (Optional):
Depending on the brand of gold leaf, you might want to apply a thin layer of varnish to prevent tarnishing, though raw clay often has a nice matte stone look. -
Open Jump Rings:
Use two pairs of pliers to twist your jump rings open. Remember to twist the ends away from each other (sideways), never pull them apart. -
Attach Hardware:
Slide the open jump ring through the hole in the clay piece, and then add the loop of the fishhook ear wire. -
Close and Secure:
Using your pliers, twist the jump ring back into a closed position, ensuring the ends meet perfectly so the earring doesn’t slip off.
Foil Tarnishing?
If your gold leaf turns green over time, it’s likely reacting to air. Ensure you use ‘composition gold’ designated for crafts or seal immediately with a UV-resistant varnish.
Pair these striking earrings with a simple outfit to let their metallic sparkle truly stand out
Matte-and-Gloss Contrast Clay Jewelry

Embrace the warmth of earthy tones with this modern, minimalist jewelry set featuring a split-circle design. The pendant and earrings combine smooth geometry with a subtle, textured finish that mimics the look of natural terracotta.
Step-by-Step Guide
Materials
- Terracotta-colored polymer clay
- Rolling pin or clay machine
- Circle clay cutters (approx. 1.5 – 2 inches)
- Tissue blade or sharp craft knife
- Texturing tool (coarse sandpaper, toothbrush, or crumpled foil)
- Hand drill or needle tool
- Jump rings (gold or brass)
- Earring hooks (gold or brass)
- Leather or faux leather cord
- Cord ends and clasp findings
- Jewelry pliers
- Baking tile or parchment paper
Step 1: Shaping the Clay Base
-
Condition the Clay:
Begin by warming the terracotta polymer clay in your hands. Knead and roll it until it is soft, pliable, and free of air bubbles or potential cracks. -
Roll Out a Sheet:
Using your rolling pin or a clay machine on a medium setting, roll the clay out into an even slab. Aim for a thickness of about 3mm—substantial enough to be durable but light enough for earrings. -
Cut the Circles:
Place your circle cutter onto the clay slab and press down firmly to cut out two perfect circles. One will become the pendant, and the other will be divided for the earrings. -
Create the Split:
Take your tissue blade and carefully slice both circles directly down the center. Separate the halves slightly to create a gap of about 2-3mm between the semi-circles.
Clean Cuts Only
Before cutting your circles, place a piece of plastic wrap over the clay. Press the cutter down through the plastic for instantly domed, smooth edges requiring zero sanding.
Step 2: Adding Detail and Texture
-
Drill Holes for Assembly:
While the clay is still raw, use a needle tool to pierce holes near the top inner corners of each semi-circle. Make sure the holes are large enough to accommodate your thick jump rings later. -
Smooth the Edges:
Gently run your finger along the cut edges and the outer rim to soften any sharpness left by the cutter or blade. A little water on your fingertip can help smooth it perfectly. -
The Pendant Construction:
For the necklace pendant, you need the two halves to stay together as one unit. You can either bake them as separate halves and join with jump rings later, or gently press a thin snake of clay across the back to bond them invisibly. For this look, we will keep them separate and join them with hardware. -
Texture the Extra Pieces:
The image shows smaller semi-circle fragments with a speckled texture. To recreate these, cut a smaller circle, slice it in half, and press your texturing tool (like coarse sandpaper or a toothbrush) into the surface to create random divots. -
Bake the Clay:
Arrange all your pieces on a ceramic tile or parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake according to the manufacturer’s instructions, usually around 275°F (135°C) for 15-30 minutes depending on thickness.
Step 3: Assembly and Finish
-
Cool and inspect:
Allow the pieces to cool completely inside the oven or on a wire rack. Once hard, check the texture—if you want a smoother finish on the main circles, you can lightly sand them with fine-grit sandpaper. -
Drill Post-Bake (Optional):
If your holes closed up slightly during baking, use a small hand drill to widen them carefully so your hardware fits comfortably. -
Connect the Pendant:
Open a large, sturdy jump ring using two pairs of pliers. Thread it through the top holes of both pendant semi-circles, effectively joining them back together with a gap in the middle. -
Attach the Cord:
Slide the leather cord through the large jump ring on the pendant. Attach your cord ends (crimp or glue style) and the clasp to the ends of the leather cord to finish the necklace. -
Assemble the Earring:
For the earring shown, insert a smaller jump ring into the holes of the semi-circles (if you want the split look) or hang a single circle pendant. Attach the earring hook to the jump ring. -
Final Polish:
Wipe the pieces down with a damp cloth or a tiny bit of baby oil to remove any sanding dust and bring out the richness of the terracotta color.
Uneven Split Gap?
If your halves drift apart or twist during baking, bake them on a bed of cornstarch. This prevents shiny spots and keeps the separate pieces perfectly flat.
Wear your new geometric set with a simple linen top to let the earthy textures shine
Abstract Art Earrings With Painterly Color Layers

These stunning earrings feature a soft, organic palette of terracotta, sage, and creme, mimicking the look of abstract brushstrokes captured in polymer clay. The design combines simple geometric shapes with a layered slab technique to create wearable modern art.
Step-by-Step Tutorial
Materials
- Polymer clay in white, terracotta, muted sage green, beige, and tan
- Acrylic rolling pin
- Tissue blade or flexible clay slicer
- Small circle cutter (approx. 10-12mm)
- U-shape or arch clay cutter (approx. 30mm wide)
- Gold jump rings (4)
- Earring hooks (gold)
- Hand drill or pin vibe
- Jewelry pliers
- Ceramic tile or baking sheet
- Parchment paper
Step 1: Preparing the Patterned Slab
-
Condition the base:
Begin by conditioning your white polymer clay until it is soft and pliable. Roll it out into a sheet approximately 3mm thick. This will serve as your canvas. -
Mix your palette:
Condition the colored clays (terracotta, sage, beige, tan). If you only have primary colors, mix small amounts of white and brown into your reds and greens to achieve those earthy, muted tones seen in the photo. -
Create the shapes:
Roll the colored clays into very thin sheets, much thinner than your base. Use your blade to cut irregular, jagged shapes—some triangular, some oblong, resembling painted brushstrokes. -
Apply the pattern:
Gently place these colored fragments onto your white base sheet. Arrange them in a loose, abstract pattern, leaving some white negative space visible between colors. -
Add details:
For the finer details, roll tiny snakes of the tan or beige clay and chop them into tiny ‘sprinkles.’ scatter these into the empty white spaces to add texture. -
Burnish the slab:
Place a piece of parchment paper over your design. Using your acrylic roller, gently roll over the slab to press the colored pieces perfectly flat into the white base, creating a smooth, unified surface.
Bubbles in your slab?
If you see air bubbles after rolling the pattern, pierce them gently with a sharp needle tool and smooth the air out with your finger before baking.
Step 2: Cutting and Assembly
-
Cut the arches:
Position your U-shaped cutter over the most pleasing sections of your pattern slab. Press down firmly to cut two arch shapes. -
Create the top connectors:
For the top pieces, you have a choice. You can cut solid terracotta circles as shown in the left earring, or use the remnant slab to cut a patterned circle. To replicate the right earring, cut a circle entirely from white clay. -
Customize the right stud:
If making the half-and-half circle stud shown on the right, take your white circle and carefully slice a curve of terracotta clay. Press this onto one side of the white circle and roll flat to merge the seam. -
Smooth the edges:
Once all shapes are cut, gently run your finger along the edges to smooth out any roughness or loose clay bits before baking. -
Pierce holes:
Use a needle tool or toothpick to poke holes at the top center of the arches and the bottom center of the circle studs. Ensure the holes are large enough for your jump rings. -
Bake the pieces:
Arrange your pieces on a ceramic tile or parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake according to your clay manufacturer’s instructions—usually around 275°F (135°C) for 30 minutes, but check your package. -
Cool and finish:
Allow the pieces to cool completely. If there are any rough edges remaining, you can lightly sand them with fine-grit sandpaper. -
Connect the components:
Use your pliers to open a jump ring. Thread it through the top of the arch and the bottom of the circle stud, then close the ring securely. -
Attach earring hooks:
Open the loop on your earring hook (or add a second jump ring if needed for orientation) and attach it to the top of the circle stud.
Use cornstarch
Even the best cutters can stick. Dip your cutters into a small bowl of cornstarch before pressing into the clay to ensure a clean, crisp release every time.
Now you have a unique pair of artistic earrings ready to elevate your everyday outfit
Sculptural 3D Clay Jewelry With Unusual Forms

Embrace the beauty of subtle curves with these softly domed, organic teardrop earrings. Their creamy, speckled ivory finish and pillowy, three-dimensional form give them a modern yet timeless sculptural appeal that mimics natural stone or ceramic.
How-To Guide
Materials
- Polymer clay (ivory, cream, or translucent white mixed with a tiny bit of white)
- Black pepper or dried vanilla bean specks (optional for texture)
- Tissue blade or clay slicer
- Acrylic rolling pin
- Circle clay cutter (small, approx. 10mm)
- Teardrop or organic shape clay cutter (medium to large)
- Cling wrap (saran wrap)
- Hand drill or pin vibe with a small bit
- Sandpaper (400, 600, 1000 grit)
- Jump rings (gold finish)
- Earring posts and backs
- Super glue or liquid clay
- Clean ceramic tile or baking sheet
Step 1: Preparing the Clay Body
-
Condition the clay:
Begin by warming the ivory polymer clay in your hands. Knead and fold it repeatedly until it is soft, pliable, and free of air bubbles or dry crumbles. -
Add subtle texture:
If your clay is plain, you can mimic the speckled look in the photo by kneading in a tiny pinch of ground black pepper or scraping the inside of a vanilla bean pod into the clay. Mix thoroughly until the specks are evenly distributed. -
Roll the slab:
Using your acrylic roller, roll the clay out into a slab. For this project, you want it slightly thicker than usual—about 3mm to 4mm—to allow for the domed, sculptural edges later.
Why is my clay cracking?
Cracking during hole punching usually means the clay wasn’t conditioned enough. Next time, knead longer! For now, patch cracks with a tiny bit of liquid clay or paste and re-bake.
Step 2: Cutting and Shaping
-
Prepare the plastic barrier:
Lay a piece of cling wrap (saran wrap) gently over the top of your rolled clay slab. Smooth out any major wrinkles, though perfect smoothness isn’t critical here. -
Cut the stud pieces:
Press your small circle cutter firmly into the clay *through* the plastic wrap. The plastic creates that lovely, soft pillowy edge (the ‘domed’ effect) rather than a sharp, harsh rim. Cut two circles. -
Cut the drop pieces:
Repeat the process with your teardrop or organic triangular cutter, pressing through the plastic to cut two identical main shapes. Gently peel back the plastic and remove the excess clay. -
Smooth the edges:
Pick up each cut piece carefully. Dip your finger in a little bit of water (or baby oil/cornstarch) and gently rub the curved edges to ensure they are perfectly round and seamless, enhancing the 3D puffed look.
Step 3: Baking and Drilling
-
Bake the pieces:
Place your four clay components on a ceramic tile or baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake according to your specific clay brand’s instructions (usually 275°F/130°C) for about 45–60 minutes to ensure durability. -
Cool down:
Allow the pieces to cool completely inside the oven or on a cooling rack. Do not attempt to drill them while they are still warm, as the clay is slightly softer. -
Mark drill spots:
Make a tiny indentation with a needle tool where you want the jump rings to go: at the very bottom of the circle studs and the very top of the teardrops. -
Drill the holes:
Using a hand drill or pin vise, carefully drill through the marked spots. Keep the drill perpendicular to the clay surface to ensure the rings sit straight.
The Perfect Pillow Effect
Experiment with the tightness of your cling wrap. Pulling it tighter creates a subtler curve, while leaving it completely loose creates a very deep, puffy dome when you cut.
Step 4: Finishing and Assembly
-
Sanding for smoothness:
To achieve that touchable matte finish, wet-sand the pieces under running water. Start with 400 grit to remove imperfections, move to 600, and finish with 1000 grit for a silky feel. -
Buff (optional):
Rub the dry pieces vigorously with a piece of denim or a soft cotton cloth. This doesn’t make them shiny but gives them a professional-looking sheen. -
Attach earring posts:
Flip the circle studs over. Apply a small drop of super glue to the flat pad of an earring post and press it onto the back of the clay circle, near the top edge. -
Secure the posts:
For extra security, I prefer to cover the glued post pad with a tiny smear of liquid clay or a thin scrap of raw clay and re-bake for 15 minutes. If using just super glue, let it cure fully. -
Open the jump rings:
Using two pairs of pliers, twist a gold jump ring open (twist sideways, don’t pull apart). -
Connect the pieces:
Thread the open jump ring through the hole in the teardrop and the hole in the stud. Twist the ring closed securely.
Now you have a stunning pair of minimalistic, sculptural earrings ready to wear or gift















