16+ Creative Clay Gift Ideas That Feel Truly Handmade

This minimalist trinket dish blends organic warmth with a touch of elegance, featuring a sandy speckled finish and a subtle golden rim. It’s the perfect size for holding cherished rings or delicate earrings on a bedside table.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Prepping and Shaping the Clay

1. Condition the clay:
   Begin by warming the white polymer clay in your hands, kneading it until soft and pliable. This conditioning step is crucial to prevent cracks later on.
2. Add texture:
   To achieve that natural, speckled stoneware look without a kiln, sprinkle a small pinch of ground black pepper or dried coffee grounds onto the clay. Fold the clay over and knead it again until the specks are evenly distributed.
3. Roll it out:
   Place the clay on a smooth work surface. Use your rolling pin to flatten it into an even sheet, aiming for a thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm). Avoid going too thin, or the rim might warp.
4. Cut the circle:
   Press your circle cutter firmly into the clay. If you don’t have a cutter, place a drinking glass or jar lid onto the clay and carefully trace around it with a craft knife to create a perfect disc.
5. Smooth the edges:
   Lift the clay circle and gently run your finger along the cut edge. This softens the sharp cut lines, giving the piece a more hand-thrown pottery aesthetic.
6. Form the curve:
   Lightly dust your spherical mold (like the bottom of a small bowl or a lightbulb) with cornstarch to prevent sticking. Gently drape the clay circle over the curve, pressing very lightly to ensure it takes the shape. Don’t press too hard, or you’ll thin the clay out.

Step 2: Baking and Finishing

1. Bake the dish:
   Place the clay (still on the mold if it’s oven-safe, or carefully removed if the curve holds) onto a baking sheet. Bake according to your clay package’s specific temperature and time instructions. I usually tent a piece of foil over the top to prevent scorching.
2. Cool down:
   Once baked, turn the oven off and let the dish cool completely inside with the door slightly ajar. Sudden temperature changes can sometimes cause brittleness.
3. Sand for smoothness:
   When fully cool, take your 400-grit sandpaper and wet-sand the edges to remove any remaining roughness. Follow up with 1000-grit for a silky smooth finish.
4. Clean surface:
   Wash the dish with mild soap and water to remove sanding dust and any oils. Dry it thoroughly with a lint-free cloth.

Step 3: Gilding the Rim

1. Prepare the gold:
   Shake your liquid gold gilding or gold leaf paint well. Pour a tiny amount onto a palette or scrap paper.
2. Load the brush:
   Dip a fine detail brush into the gold paint. You don’t want the brush dripping wet, but it needs enough paint to flow smoothly.
3. Paint the edge:
   Hold the dish steadily in one hand. Run the brush along the very top edge of the rim. Let the brush naturally wobble slightly—this irregularity adds to the organic, handmade charm seen in the photo.
4. Add the drip effect:
   To mimic the glazing in the reference image, allow the gold paint to extend slightly down the inner and outer walls in just a few random spots, rather than painting a perfect uniform line.
5. Let it cure:
   Allow the gold paint to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This usually takes a few hours.
6. Seal the piece:
   If you want extra durability, apply a thin coat of matte varnish over the clay surface (avoiding the gold rim if the varnish reacts with metals). This protects the faux-speckle finish.

Place your new dish on a dresser or vanity and enjoy the simple, handmade beauty it adds to your space

This elegant two-piece jewelry stand combines a sleek conical ring tower with a matching catch-all dish for smaller studs or chains. The textured, speckled finish gives it a trendy stoneware look that is perfect for organizing your everyday gold pieces in style.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Forming the Ring Cone

1. Condition the clay:
   Start by taking a golf-ball-sized chunk of clay and kneading it in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and free of cracks. If you want that speckled stoneware effect shown in the photo and are using plain clay, this is the time to knead in some black pepper or dried coffee grounds.
2. Create a smooth ball:
   Roll the clay between your palms to form a perfectly smooth sphere, ensuring there are no seams or air pockets trapped inside.
3. Shape the cone:
   Place the ball on your work surface. Using the flat part of your palm, roll the ball back and forth while applying more pressure to one side than the other. This tapered rolling motion will naturally begin to form a cone shape.
4. Refine the height:
   Stand the cone upright. Gently gently pull upwards from the tip to elongate it, aiming for a height of about 3 to 4 inches.
5. Flatten the base:
   Press the cone firmly onto your table to create a completely flat bottom. Pick it up and inspect the base to make sure it will stand perfectly straight without wobbling.
6. Smooth the surface:
   Dip your finger in a tiny bit to water (for air-dry clay) or baby oil (for polymer) and run it over the cone to erase any fingerprints. The finish needs to be quite smooth so rings slip on and off easily.

Step 2: Creating the Catch-All Dish

1. Roll out the base:
   Take a larger portion of clay and roll it out into an even slab, approximately 1/4 inch thick. Use guides or rulers on either side of your roller to ensure consistent thickness.
2. Cut the circle:
   Use your round cookie cutter to punch out a clean circle from the slab. This will be the footprint of your dish.
3. Make a coil:
   Roll a long, thin snake of clay to serve as the rim. Ideally, this coil should be slightly thinner than a pencil.
4. Score and slip:
   If using air-dry clay, scratch up the outer edge of your base circle and the bottom of your coil with a needle tool. Dab a little water (slip) on the scratched areas to act as glue.
5. Attach the rim:
   Place the coil on top of the circle’s edge. Gently press it down to bond the two pieces together.
6. Blend the seam:
   Using a modeling tool or your thumb, drag the clay from the inside of the coil down onto the base to merge the seam invisibly. Repeat this on the outside edge for a seamless, solid look.
7. Shape the wall:
   Pinch the wall gently to create a vertical, uniform rim. I find that running a damp sponge around the edge helps create that soft, rounded lip seen in the example.

Step 3: Dry and Finish

1. Let it dry:
   Allow both pieces to dry completely. For air-dry clay, this usually takes 24-48 hours. Flip the dish upside down halfway through so the bottom dries evenly.
2. Sand for perfection:
   Once fully cured, use fine-grit sandpaper to buff away any final bumps or rough spots. Pay special attention to the rim of the dish and the tip of the cone.
3. Surface check:
   Wipe away all sanding dust with a slightly damp cloth or tack cloth before moving to the final step.
4. Seal the piece:
   Apply a coat of matte varnish to protect the clay from moisture and oils from your hands. Allow the sealant to dry fully according to the manufacturer’s instructions before assembling.
5. Assembly:
   Simply place the cone into the center of the dish—leaving them unglued allows for easier cleaning and versatile styling.

Your chic, custom jewelry organizer is now ready to display your favorite rings.

Embrace warm, earthy tones with these trendy geometric earrings made from terracotta-colored polymer clay. This design features a classic double-arch silhouette with a subtle play on texture, combining smooth finishes with a speckled, stone-like effect for added visual interest.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparing the Clay

1. Condition the base clay:
   Begin by warming up your terracotta polymer clay in your hands. Knead and roll it until it becomes soft, pliable, and free of any air bubbles.
2. Create the textured mix:
   Cut off about one-third of your conditioned clay to create the textured lower arches. To this portion, I like to gently fold in a tiny pinch of coarse black pepper or fine coffee grounds. Knead thoroughly until the speckles are evenly distributed throughout the clay.
3. Roll out slabs:
   Using your acrylic roller or a pasta machine on a medium setting (around 3mm thick), roll out both the smooth terracotta clay and the textured speckle clay into flat, even sheets.

Step 2: Cutting and Shaping

1. Cut the top arches:
   Take your U-shaped cutter and press firmly into the smooth terracotta sheet. Cut two identical shapes. These will be the top component of your earrings that connect to the hooks.
2. Cut the bottom arches:
   Clean your cutter if necessary, then press it into the textured clay sheet to cut two more U-shapes. These will form the dangling lower tier of the earrings.
3. Refine the edges:
   Gently lift the cut shapes. Use your finger or a soft silicone tool to smooth out any rough edges or fingerprints on the sides of the clay pieces.
4. Pierce the holes:
   Before baking, use a needle tool to create holes for your hardware. For the top smooth arches, pierce one hole at the very top center (for the earring hook) and one at the bottom center (to connect the lower piece). For the bottom textured arches, pierce one hole at the top center.

Step 3: Baking and Assembly

1. Bake the pieces:
   Arrange your clay shapes on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake according to the manufacturer’s instructions on your clay package—usually around 275°F (130°C) for 15-30 minutes.
2. Cool down:
   Once baked, turn off the oven and let the pieces cool partially inside, or remove them and let them cool completely on a flat surface before handling.
3. Open jump rings:
   Using two pairs of pliers, twist two jump rings open. Remember to twist the ends away from each other sideways rather than pulling them apart, which maintains the ring’s circular shape.
4. Connect the tiers:
   Thread an open jump ring through the bottom hole of a smooth arch and the top hole of a textured arch. Close the jump ring securely using your pliers.
5. Attach earring hooks:
   Open the small loop on your earring hook (or use a small jump ring if preferred) and slide it through the top hole of the smooth arch. Close the loop tightly.
6. Final check:
   Repeat the assembly for the second earring. Double-check that all jump rings are fully closed so the pieces don’t slip apart while wearing.

Now you have a stunning pair of warm, modern earrings ready to wear or gift.

Bring a touch of modern elegance to your coffee table with this set of DIY clay coasters. The organic swirls of sage green and terracotta against a creamy base create a sophisticated, stone-like effect that looks far more expensive than it is.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Prepping the Clay

1. Condition the Base:
   Start by taking a large block of your beige or cream clay. Knead it thoroughly in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and warm. This constitutes the bulk of your coaster, so prepare enough for about 4 coasters.
2. Prepare Accent Colors:
   Condition smaller amounts of the sage green and terracotta clay separately. You’ll want a ratio of roughly 70% base color to 30% accent colors combined.
3. Make the Snakes:
   Roll each color into long, thin snakes. The beige snake should be thickest (about 1 inch), while the colored strans should be thinner varying sizes.
4. Create the Speckle (Optional):
   If you don’t have pre-speckled clay, I like to sprinkle a tiny pinch of coarse black pepper or dried coffee grounds into the beige clay snake now for that authentic stone look.

Step 2: Marbling Technique

1. Combine the Strands:
   Twist the colored snakes around the large beige snake to form one large, multi-colored rope.
2. Fold and Twist:
   Fold the rope in half and twist it again. Repeat this ‘twist and fold’ process 3-4 times. Be careful not to over-twist, or the colors will blend into a muddy brown rather than distinct swirls.
3. Form a Ball:
   Roll the twisted rope into a smooth ball. Ensure there offer no air pockets trapped inside.
4. Check the Pattern:
   Inspect the ball. If you want finer lines, roll it back into a snake and fold once more. If you like the chunky swirls, leave it as is.

Step 3: Rolling and Cutting

1. Flatten the Clay:
   Place the ball on a sheet of parchment paper. Use your acrylic roller to flatten the ball into a slab, aiming for an even thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm).
2. Adjust the Swirls:
   Look at your slab. If the marbling isn’t showing up how you’d like, you can slice off thin layers from the top to reveal the pattern underneath.
3. Cut the Shape:
   Use your round cookie cutter to punch out the coaster shapes. Press down firmly and give it a little wiggle to ensure a clean cut through the clay.
4. Smooth the Edges:
   carefully lift away the excess clay. Run your finger dipped in a little cornstarch or water around the rim of each coaster to smooth out any rough cut marks.

Step 4: Baking and Finishing

1. Baking Setup:
   Transfer the parchment paper with the coasters onto a baking sheet or ceramic tile. To prevent them from bubbling, you can place a piece of plain paper on top and weigh them down with another tile.
2. Bake:
   Bake according to your clay manufacturer’s instructions (usually 275°F/135°C for 15-30 minutes depending on thickness). Do not raise the temperature to speed it up.
3. Cool Down:
   Allow the coasters to cool completely in the oven with the door cracked open. This gradual cooling helps prevent cracking.
4. Sanding:
   Once cool, wet-sand the edges and surface lightly with 400-grit sandpaper under running water. Move to 800-grit for a silky smooth finish.
5. Sealing (Optional):
   If you want extra protection against coffee stains, apply a thin layer of matte varnish. Let it dry completely before use.

Enjoy your beautiful new coaster set, perfect for gifting or keeping for yourself

Capture the delicate beauty of nature with these simple, elegant clay ornaments featuring pressed greenery. The natural, organic look creates a timeless decoration perfect for holiday trees or as a personalized gift topper.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Preparing the Clay Base

1. Condition the Clay:
   Begin by taking a handful of your white clay and kneading it in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and warm. This prevents cracking later on.
2. Roll out the Slab:
   Place the clay on a sheet of parchment paper to prevent sticking. Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay into an even slab, aiming for a thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm).
3. Check for Imperfections:
   Look over the surface of your rolled clay. If you see air bubbles or wrinkles, smooth them out gently with a damp fingertip or re-roll the section.

Step 2: Pressing the Botanicals

1. Select Your Sprig:
   Choose a small, fresh sprig that fits nicely within the size of your intended oval shape. Remove any thicker, woody stems that might distort the clay too much.
2. Positioning:
   Lay the sprig gently onto the center of your rolled clay slab. Think about the composition; slightly off-center like in the example often looks more organic.
3. The Press:
   Take your rolling pin and gently roll over the leaf *once* with firm, even pressure. This embeds the foliage into the clay surface. Don’t roll back and forth, or the image will ghost.
4. Reveal the Imprint:
   Carefully use the tip of a craft knife or tweezers to lift the stem edge and peel the greenery out of the clay. You should be left with a crisp, debossed impression.

Step 3: Cutting and Finishing

1. Cut the Shape:
   Position your oval cookie cutter over the impression, centering the botanical design comfortably. Press down firmly to cut the shape.
2. Release the Ornament:
   Remove the excess clay from around the cutter first, then lift the cutter. If the clay sticks inside, gently push it out from the edges.
3. Smooth the Edges:
   Dip your finger in a tiny bit of water and run it along the cut edge of the oval to smooth out any sharpness or roughness left by the cutter.
4. Create the Hanging Hole:
   Use a drinking straw or a small round tool to punch a clean hole near the top center of the oval. Make sure it’s not too close to the edge to ensure durability.
5. Drying Time:
   Let the ornament dry flat on parchment paper. For air-dry clay, this usually takes 24-48 hours. I like to flip them over halfway through drying so the bottom gets air too.

Step 4: Detailing and Assembly

1. Enhancing the Greenery:
   Once fully dry, the impression might look plain white. To replicate the look in the photo, mix a tiny drop of sage green watercolor or acrylic paint with water. Use a fine brush to gently wash color into the depressed leaf shape, wiping away excess from the surface immediately.
2. Sealing:
   Apply a light coat of matte sealant over the entire piece to protect the clay and the painted detail.
3. Stringing:
   Cut a length of natural jute twine, about 10 inches long. Fold it in half and feed the looped end through the hole from front to back.
4. Creating the Knot:
   Pass the loose ends through the loop and pull tight to secure it (a lark’s head knot). Then, tie a simple decorative bow at the base near the clay hole.

Now you have a set of earthy, beautiful tags ready to elevate your gift wrapping

These charming clay magnets function like tiny gallery walls for your fridge, featuring delicate botanical illustrations and warm, earthy tones. The smooth, flat surface creates the perfect canvas for simple line art, turning functional organization into small-scale home decor.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Preparing the Canvas

1. Condition the clay:
   Begin by kneading your clay until it is soft and pliable. If you want colored backgrounds like the terracotta or beige ones shown, mix small amounts of acrylic paint into white air-dry clay before rolling, or use pre-colored polymer clay for a richer base tone.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Place the clay on parchment paper to prevent sticking. Roll it out to a consistent thickness of about 1/4 inch (5-6mm). You want them thick enough to be sturdy but not so heavy they slide down the fridge.
3. Cut the shapes:
   Use your small round cutter to punch out clean circles. Press straight down and lift up; avoid wiggling to keep the edges sharp. If the clay sticks inside the cutter, gently push it out from the open side.
4. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water (for air-dry clay) or baby oil (for polymer clay) and run it gently around the rim of each circle to soften any sharp cuts or jagged bits left by the cutter.
5. Dry or bake:
   If using air-dry clay, let the discs dry flat for 24-48 hours, flipping them halfway through to prevent curling. If using polymer clay, bake according to the package instructions (usually 275°F for 15-30 minutes) on a lined baking sheet.
6. Sand for perfection:
   Once fully cured and cool, lightly sand the surface and edges with fine-grit sandpaper. This step is crucial because a super-smooth surface makes the painting much easier and cleaner.

Step 2: Painting the Mini Art

1. Base coat (optional):
   If you didn’t color your clay beforehand, paint the entire surface of the disc with your desired background color—think soft pinks, creams, or warm terracottas. Let this base layer dry completely before adding details.
2. Plan your designs:
   Sketch your ideas on scratch paper first. The designs work best when they are simple and graphic: a single tulip, a crescent moon, a daisy, or a fern frond.
3. Paint the main shapes:
   Using your fine detail brush, paint the colorful elements first. For the moon, paint a yellow crescent; for the daisy, paint the white petals. Don’t worry about outlines yet—just get the blocked-in color down.
4. Add line work:
   Once simple shapes are dry, use black paint and your finest brush to add stems, leaves, and definition. For the tulip, draw a simple ‘U’ shape for the flower head and a curved line for the stem. Keep your hand steady and pressure light.
5. Create white details:
   On darker backgrounds like the terracotta discs, white paint pops beautifully. Use white to paint fern leaves or simple daisy petals. I like to reload my brush frequently here to keep the white opaque and crisp.
6. Add speckles (optional):
   For a terrazzo or speckled egg look, dilute a tiny bit of black or brown paint with water. Dip a stiff brush (or old toothbrush) in it and flick the bristles with your thumb to spray tiny dots onto the clay surface.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Seal the artwork:
   Protect your painting with a coat of matte varnish. Matte is preferable to glossy here as it mimics the look of high-quality art paper or ceramic transfers.
2. Attach the magnet:
   Flip the discs over. Apply a dab of strong craft glue to the center of the back and press your magnet firmly into it.
3. Final cure:
   Let the glue set for at least 24 hours to ensure a permanent bond before sticking your new gallery onto the refrigerator.

Enjoy arranging your miniature art collection every time you reach for a snack

Capture the essence of understated elegance with this perfectly imperfect round bud vase. Its textured, matte finish and organic spherical shape make it a stunning yet simple vessel for displaying delicate single stems like freesias or wildflowers.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Shaping the Base

1. Condition the clay:
   Start by taking a generous amount of your stone-colored air dry clay and kneading it thoroughly in your hands. You want it warm and pliable to prevent internal air bubbles.
2. Form a ball:
   Roll the clay between your palms or on your work surface to create a smooth, tight sphere. Aim for a ball slightly larger than a tennis ball, depending on the size of your insert.
3. Create the opening:
   Hold the sphere in one hand and gently press your thumb into the center of the top to create an initial indentation.
4. Check the insert:
   Take your small glass jar or test tube and press it gently into the opening you just made to gauge the size. It needs to fit snugly inside.
5. Hollow the form:
   Remove the glass and carefully widen and deepen the hole using your fingers or a sculpting tool. Keep checking against the glass insert until the glass can sit completely recessed within the clay body.
6. Refine the sphere:
   As you hollow it out, the sphere might deform slightly. I like to gently roll the clay back and forth on the table periodically to maintain that perfect round exterior.

Step 2: Creating the Neck

1. Roll a coil:
   Take a separate small piece of clay and roll it into a thick, short coil or ‘snake’ about the thickness of your thumb.
2. Form a ring:
   Curve this coil into a ring that matches the circumference of the vase opening. Cut the ends at an angle and join them to make a seamless circle.
3. Attach the neck:
   Score the top of your sphere and the bottom of the coil ring with a needle tool. Apply a little water slip to the scored areas and press the ring firmly onto the top of the vase.
4. Blend the seams:
   Using your thumb or a modeling tool, drag clay from the coil down onto the sphere to blend the seam completely. Repeat on the inside of the neck for a smooth transition.
5. Smooth the shape:
   Wet a sponge slightly and run it over the entire surface. This helps smooth out fingerprints and unifies the neck with the body, creating that continuous, organic silhouette.
6. Insert the glass:
   Before the clay hardens, perform a final fit test with your glass insert. Leave the glass inside if you are worried about shrinkage, or remove it carefully if the fit is loose enough.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Dry slowly:
   Place the vase in a cool, dry spot away from direct sunlight. To prevent cracking, you can loosely tent a plastic bag over it for the first 24 hours.
2. Rotate while drying:
   Every few hours, turn the vase to ensure air reaches all sides, especially the bottom, for even drying.
3. Sanding for texture:
   Once bone dry (usually 24-48 hours), use medium-grit sandpaper to remove any major bumps. Switch to fine-grit sandpaper to achieve the smooth yet textured finish seen in the photo.
4. Creating the stone look:
   Don’t over-sand; leave some natural graininess to mimic the look of stone or unglazed ceramic.
5. Dust off:
   Wipe the vase down deeply with a dry cloth or soft brush to remove all the sanding dust from the pores of the clay.
6. Seal the surface:
   Spray the vase with a matte varnish. This won’t make it waterproof (that’s what the glass insert is for), but it will protect the clay from humidity and handling marks.
7. Final assembly:
   Once the sealant is dry, slide your glass insert back inside. Your vase is now ready for water and fresh flowers.

Now you have a serene, minimalist vessel ready to showcase nature’s simple beauty on your windowsill

Create a soothing ambiance with these organic, sphere-shaped candle holders that mimic the look of smooth river stones. The natural variation in clay tones and their soft, rounded profiles make them a perfect centerpiece for a minimalist table or a thoughtful handmade gift.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Shaping the base forms

1. Portion the clay:
   Cut three equal-sized blocks of clay using your wire tool or dental floss. I like to aim for a size slightly larger than a tennis ball for each holder to ensure stability.
2. Condition the clay:
   Knead each portion in your hands firmly. The warmth of your hands will make the clay pliable and help remove any trapped air bubbles, which is crucial for a crack-free finish.
3. Form spheres:
   Roll each portion of clay between your palms or on your work surface until you have a smooth, round ball.
4. Create the pebble shape:
   Gently press the top and bottom of the sphere against your work surface to flatten it slightly. You want a squat, rounded shape rather than a perfect ball, mimicking a heavy stone.

Step 2: Creating the candle well

1. Mark the center:
   Find the center point on the top of your flattened sphere and make a tiny pilot hole with your needle tool.
2. Size the opening:
   Gently press the base of your actual tapered candle directly into the clay to create an impression. Remove the candle and check the width.
3. Carve the hole:
   Using a sculpting tool or your thumb, deepen the impression. You want the hold to be at least an inch deep so the candle stands straight without wobbling.
4. Test the fit:
   Insert your candle again. It should fit snugly but have just enough wiggle room to account for the clay shrinking slightly as it dries.
5. Create the concave top:
   Using your thumbs, gently press down the clay surrounding the hole to create a shallow, bowl-like depression. This adds visual interest and catches any potential wax drips.

Step 3: Refining and texture

1. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger or a small sponge into water—just a tiny bit—and run it over the outer surface to erase fingerprints and smooth out any lumps.
2. Add surface texture:
   For the stone-colored holder, subtly scratch horizontal lines around the circumference with a needle tool to mimic sedimentary rock layers, or gently stipple the surface with a stiff brush for a pitted look.
3. Refine the rim:
   Check the rim of the candle hole one last time. Smooth it down with a damp finger so it creates a soft transition rather than a sharp edge.
4. Check stability:
   Tap the holder gently on the table to ensure the bottom is perfectly flat and the piece doesn’t rock.

Step 4: Finishing touches

1. Slow drying:
   Place the holders in a cool, dry area away from direct sunlight. To prevent cracking, you can loosely tent a plastic bag over them for the first 24 hours.
2. Full cure time:
   Allow the clay to dry completely for 48 to 72 hours. The clay will lighten in color and feel room temperature (rather than cool) when it is fully dry.
3. Sand for perfection:
   Once bone dry, take your fine-grit sandpaper and gently buff the exterior. This removes any final imperfections and gives the ‘stone’ a velvety texture.
4. Seal the piece:
   Apply a coat of matte sealant or varnish. This protects the clay from moisture and gives it a finished look without making it unnaturally shiny.
5. Final assembly:
   Once the sealant is dry, place your tapered candles into the holders. If the fit is too loose after drying, melt a few drops of wax into the bottom of the hole to secure the candle.

Watching the warm glow of candlelight flicker against your handmade pottery brings a deep sense of satisfaction to any quiet evening

Bring a sense of calm organization to any workspace with this segmented desk tray. Featuring a lovely speckled finish and rounded corners, its three compartments are perfect for corralling paperclips, pins, and small notes.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Creating the Base and Walls

1. Prepare your clay:
   Begin by conditioning your clay until it is soft and pliable. If you are using plain clay and want the speckled look shown, I like to knead in some coarse black pepper or dried coffee grounds at this stage for that faux-stone texture.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Roll the clay out into a large, even slab approximately 1/4 inch thick. Try to keep the thickness consistent, as this ensures your tray sits flat and dries evenly.
3. Cut the base:
   Using a ruler and your sharp blade, cut a rectangle for the base. For a desk tray like this, a size of about 4 inches by 9 inches works well.
4. Round the corners:
   Use a small circular object, like a coin or a bottle cap, as a guide to gently trim the four sharp corners of your base rectangle into smooth curves.
5. Cut the perimeter strips:
   Cut long strips from the remaining clay slab. You want these to be the same height as you want your tray deep—about 1.5 inches is usually perfect.
6. Attach the outer wall:
   Score the edges of your base and the bottom edge of your clay strip. Apply a little water (or slip/liquid clay) and press the strip onto the base, wrapping it all the way around the perimeter.
7. Close the seam:
   Where the ends of the wall strip meet, cut them at an angle for a cleaner join. Blend the seam together with your fingers or a modeling tool until it disappears.
8. Smooth the interior joint:
   Take a thin snake of clay and press it into the inside corner where the wall meets the floor to reinforce the bond. Smooth this out completely so the transition is seamless.

Step 2: Review and Refine

1. Measure the dividers:
   Measure the interior width of your tray. Cut two more strips of clay to this exact length to serve as your dividers.
2. Position the compartments:
   Place the divider strips inside the tray. You can space them equally for three identical sections, or offset them to create one larger section and two smaller ones.
3. Secure the dividers:
   Just like with the outer walls, score and slip the edges. Press the dividers firmly into place and smudge the clay at the connection points to lock them in.
4. Refine the rim:
   Use a damp sponge to gently smooth the top rim of the entire tray. This softens any sharp edges left from cutting and gives it that pleasant, rounded stone look.
5. Check for symmetry:
   Look at the tray from above. If the walls are bowing out or leaning in, gently push them back into a straight, vertical alignment.
6. Let it dry:
   Allow the piece to dry completely according to your clay’s instructions. Air-dry clay often needs 24-48 hours. Drying it slowly away from direct heat prevents cracking.
7. Sand for perfection:
   Once fully cured, take your fine-grit sandpaper and lightly buff the entire surface. Pay special attention to the rim and corners to make them buttery smooth involved.
8. Seal the piece:
   Finish by applying a coat of matte varnish or sealant. This protects the clay from stains and enhances the speckled effect without making it look plasticky.

Place your new organizer on your desk and enjoy the tidy satisfaction it brings to your workday

This elegant soap dish combines rusticity with refinement, featuring a lovely speckled finish and purposeful ridges for drainage. The fluted texture not only looks sophisticated but allows air to circulate under your soap, extending its life.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Shaping the Base

1. Prepare the Clay:
   Start by wedging your speckled stoneware clay thoroughly to remove any air bubbles. This ensures a strong, crack-free foundation for your dish.
2. Roll the Slab:
   Roll out a slab of clay to a uniform thickness of about 1/4 inch. If you want a more organic feel, slightly thicker is okay, but consistency is key.
3. Cut the Shape:
   Place your oval template onto the slab. Using a needle tool held vertically, trace around the template to cut out the base shape.
4. Smooth the Edges:
   Dip a small sponge in water and run it gently along the cut edge to soften any sharp angles left by the needle tool.
5. Form the Walls:
   Roll a separate coil of clay, roughly the thickness of a pencil. Score and slip the outer edge of your oval base, then attach the coil to create the wall.
6. Create Height:
   Pinch the coil upwards to create a wall about 1 inch high. Aim for a gentle outward slope rather than perfectly vertical sides.
7. Blend the Seams:
   Use a wooden modeling tool or your thumb to blend the coil seamlessly into the base on both the inside and outside. I like to smooth this until no join line is visible.

Step 2: Texturing and Refining

1. Initial Smoothing:
   Before adding texture, ensure the surface is relatively smooth. A firm rib tool works wonders here to compress the clay particles.
2. Marking Guidelines:
   If you struggle with spacing, lightly mark the top rim at the four compass points (12, 3, 6, 9) to help guide your texture placement.
3. Carving Exterior Ribs:
   Using a looped ribbon tool or a specialized fluting tool, carve vertical grooves from the rim down to the base on the outside. Apply consistent pressure for uniform depth.
4. Create Interior Drainage:
   Inside the dish, use the same tool to carve gentle grooves across the bottom. These ridges are crucial—they lift the soap so it doesn’t sit in a puddle.
5. Match the Pattern:
   Try to align the interior texture with the general flow of the dish’s shape, creating a cohesive look between inside and outside.
6. Refine the Rim:
   The carving process might leave the rim a bit uneven. Gently sponge the rim again to round it off and remove any little clay burrs.

Step 3: Finishing

1. Slow Drying:
   Loosely cover the dish with plastic and let it dry slowly for a few days to prevent warping. Once bone dry, bisque fire the piece to cone 04.
2. Glazing:
   Dip or brush a clear matte glaze over the entire piece. This protects the clay while letting that beautiful natural speckle shine through.
3. Wipe the Foot:
   Use a damp sponge to wipe any glaze off the very bottom of the dish so it doesn’t fuse to the kiln shelf.
4. Final Fire:
   Fire the piece again to the maturity temperature of your clay body (likely cone 5 or 6 for stoneware). Allow it to cool completely in the kiln.

Place a fresh bar of soap inside and admire your beautifully functional handiwork.

Upgrade a kitchen counter with this elegant, handmade spoon rest featuring organic lines and a speckled, earthy finish. The elongated oval shape provides ample space for large utensils while adding a touch of modern rustic charm to any cooking ritual.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Forming the Shape

1. Prepare the Clay:
   Begin by wedging your speckled stoneware clay to remove any air bubbles and ensure a uniform consistency.
2. Roll the Slab:
   On your canvas surface, roll the clay out into an even slab about 1/4 inch thick. I find turning the clay over occasionally helps prevent it from sticking to the canvas.
3. Cut the Base:
   Place your oval paper template onto the slab. Using a needle tool held vertically, trace around the template to cut out the base shape.
4. Smooth the Edges:
   Run a damp sponge or your finger along the cut edge to soften the sharp corners before you start shaping.
5. Lift the Walls:
   Gently lift the edges of the oval slab to create a shallow bowl form. Pinch and guide the clay upwards, aiming for a wall height of about 1.5 inches.
6. Refine the Curve:
   Use a flexible rib tool on the inside of the curve to smooth the transition from the flat bottom to the vertical walls, ensuring a seamless, flowing shape.
7. Level the Rim:
   Place the piece on a flat surface and inspect the rim height. Use a needle tool to trim any uneven high spots, then smooth the rim with a damp chamois or sponge.

Step 2: Adding Texture & Firing

1. Leather Hard Stage:
   Loosely cover the piece with plastic and let it dry slowly until it reaches a leather-hard state—firm enough to handle without warping, but soft enough to carve.
2. Mark the Lines:
   Using a needle tool, lightly sketch vertical guide lines from the rim down into the center of the bowl. Space them somewhat irregularly to keep that organic feel.
3. Carve the Detail:
   With a small loop tool or a carving stylus, deepen these lines. Carve continuously from the outside rim, over the top, and down into the interior basin.
4. Smooth the Burrs:
   After carving, small crumbs of clay (burrs) will remain. Wait a few minutes for them to stiffen, then gently brush them away with a soft brush or fingertip.
5. Bisque Fire:
   Allow the spoon rest to dry completely (bone dry) before loading it into the kiln for a bisque firing to cone 04/06.
6. Apply Oxide Wash:
   Once bisqued, paint an iron oxide wash or brown underglaze into the carved lines. Wipe the surface back with a damp sponge so the color remains only in the recessed grooves.
7. Glaze Application:
   Dip or brush the entire piece with a transparent or semi-transparent white glaze. This allows the speckles of the clay body and the darkened carved lines to show through.
8. Clean the Foot:
   Wipe away any glaze from the very bottom of the piece where it will touch the kiln shelf to prevent sticking.
9. Final Fire:
   Fire the piece to the maturation temperature of your specific clay and glaze (typically cone 5 or 6 for stoneware).

Now you have a functional piece of art ready to sit by your stove and catch every drip in style

These charming, rustic plant markers are the perfect blend of natural textures and clean design, featuring earthy terracotta and cream tones. Created with simple clay techniques, each tag showcases a delicate impressed botanical motif that adds an artisanal touch to any potted herb or garden bed.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Shaping the Base

1. Prepare your workspace:
   Lay down a sheet of parchment paper or a canvas mat to prevent the clay from sticking to your table. Take a handful of the terracotta clay first, kneading it gently until it is pliable and smooth.
2. Roll the slab:
   Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay into an even slab. You want a thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm)—thick enough to be sturdy but thin enough to look elegant.
3. Cut the rectangles:
   Using a sharp craft knife and a ruler (or a rectangular cookie cutter if you have one), cut out rectangles approximately 2 inches wide by 4 inches tall. I like to cut a few extra in case of mistakes.
4. Trim the corners:
   To achieve the classic tag shape shown in the photo, carefully slice off the top two corners of each rectangle at a 45-degree angle. Try to keep these cuts symmetrical.
5. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a tiny bit of water and run it along the cut edges of the clay to smooth down any roughness or sharp burrs left by the knife.
6. Create the hanging hole:
   Take a drinking straw or a small circular clay cutter and punch a hole centered near the top of the tag, just below where the angled corners began. Twist the straw as you pull it out for a clean hole.

Step 2: Impressing the Design

1. Position the botanical:
   Select your leaf stamp or a sturdy fresh leaf. Center the stem at the bottom of the tag, ensuring the leaves will branch upward conveniently within the rectangular space.
2. Make the impression:
   Press the stamp or leaf firmly into the clay. If using a real leaf, you might want to gently roll over it with your rolling pin to ensure the veins transfer clearly. Peel it away to reveal the design.
3. Repeat with contrast clay:
   Repeat the entire process with the white or cream-colored air-dry clay to create a beautiful two-tone set like the one in the example.
4. Drying phase:
   Carefully transfer the tags to a wire rack or leave them on parchment paper to dry. This typically takes 24-48 hours. Flip them over halfway through the drying process to prevent curling.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Sand for smoothness:
   Once fully dry and hard, use a piece of fine-grit sandpaper to go over the edges and the surface lightly. This removes any fingerprints or uneven spots.
2. Seal for protection:
   Since these will be near plants and moisture, apply a thin coat of waterproof matte acrylic sealer to both sides. Let the first side dry completely before flipping to seal the back.
3. Prepare the twine:
   Cut a length of natural jute twine, approximately 8-10 inches long for each tag.
4. Loop the knot:
   Fold the twine in half, push the looped end through the tag’s hole, and then pull the loose ends through the loop to secure it with a lark’s head knot.
5. Stack and bundle:
   Group your finished mixed-color tags together and tie them with a larger bow of bulky twine if you plan on gifting them as a set.

These timeless markers are now ready to add organization and beauty to your garden pots

Craft a set of dreamy, celestial-themed charms perfect for personalizing zippers, bags, or jewelry. This project uses warm earth tones and metallic accents to create stylized moons, stars, and abstract shapes that look beautifully cohesive.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Prepping and Cutting

1. Condition the clay:
   Begin by kneading each color of polymer clay separately until soft and pliable. Use a rolling pin or pasta machine to roll them out to a uniform thickness, approximately 3mm to 4mm.
2. Cut base shapes:
   For the arch charm, use a U-shaped cutter on the terracotta clay. For the moon charm, cut a circle from terracotta. For the star charm, cut a simple star from terracotta. For the snowflake charm, use a snowflake plunger cutter on navy blue clay.
3. Create dangling elements:
   Cut a crescent moon shape from the beige clay. You can do this by using a circle cutter, then shifting the cutter slightly to the side and cutting again. Cut two stars: one from mustard yellow and a larger one from navy blue with a smaller star cutout in its center.
4. Add texture and details:
   On the navy blue square-star shape, use a needle tool to scratch delicate lines across the surface for a distressed look. For the snowflake, you can press a texture sponge gently against it before cutting to give it a stone-like finish.
5. Imprint the stars:
   On the terracotta arch, use a small star-shaped stamp or the tip of a detailing tool to firmly press star patterns into the raw clay. Vary the sizes for visual interest.
6. Pierce holes:
   Using a needle tool or a small straw, carefully poke holes where the jump rings will go. Remember to place holes at both the top and bottom for pieces that will have dangling elements.

Step 2: Baking and Finishing

1. Bake the pieces:
   Arrange all your clay pieces on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake according to your brand of clay’s instructions—usually around 275°F (135°C) for 15-30 minutes.
2. Cool down:
   Let the pieces cool completely on the tray. I prefer to leave them for an hour so they harden fully before handling.
3. Paint the accents:
   Dip a fine-point brush into gold acrylic paint. Carefully fill in the impressed star shapes on the terracotta arch. Add small dots or speckles to the beige moon for a lunar effect.
4. Clean up overflow:
   If gold paint gets outside the lines, wait for it to struggle drying, then gently scratch the excess away with a craft knife or wipe with a damp cotton swab.
5. Insert center stars:
   For the navy blue star, if you created a separate tiny yellow star for the center, glue it in place now using a dab of super glue if it wasn’t baked together.

Step 3: Assembly

1. Open jump rings:
   Use two pairs of pliers to twist your jump rings open laterally (never pull them apart outward). This maintains their circular shape.
2. Connect the danglers:
   Attach the mustard star to the bottom of the terracotta arch using a small jump ring. Connect the beige crescent moon to the terracotta circle. Attach the large navy star to the terracotta star.
3. Attach the clasps:
   Add a larger jump ring to the top hole of each main charm component. Slide a gold lobster claw clasp onto the ring before closing it securely.
4. Final check:
   Give each charm a gentle tug to ensure all jump rings are fully closed and the connections are secure.

Now you have a gorgeous set of handmade charms ready to gift or keep for yourself

This charming miniature dwelling captures the warmth of home with its textured terracotta roof and sweet hand-painted details. The rustic finish and arched green door make it a perfect heartwarming gift or a cozy addition to a mantelpiece display.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Shaping the Structure

1. Prepare the clay slabs:
   Roll out your white clay to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch. Making the walls too thin can cause warping, so aim for sturdiness.
2. Cut the walls:
   Using a ruler and craft knife, cut out two identical pentagons for the front and back walls (a square base with a triangle top) and two identical rectangular side walls. Measure carefully to ensure the sides match the height of the pentagon’s square section.
3. Create window and door impressions:
   Before assembling, lightly press your tools into the clay to outline the arched door on the front wall and square windows on the front and side walls. Don’t cut all the way through; just create a guide for later detailing.
4. Assemble the base:
   Score the edges of your wall pieces (scratch the clay to rough it up) and apply a little slip or liquid clay as glue. Join the four walls together to form the house box, smoothing the seams on the inside and outside with your finger or a modeling tool.
5. Cut and texturize the roof:
   Cut two rectangular slabs for the roof. They should be slightly wider than the house to create an overhang. Before attaching, use a dull knife or sculpting tool to carve horizontal lines across the slabs, and then small vertical dashes to mimic shingles.
6. Attach the roof:
   Score and slip the top edges of your wall structure. Place the two roof panels on top, joining them at the peak. Smooth the center seam or cover it with a thin coil of clay blended in.

Step 2: Adding Details

1. Sculpt the chimney:
   Shape a small rectangular block for the chimney. Cut the bottom at an angle so it sits flush against the slope of the roof. Attach it near the peak using your slip method.
2. Create dimension:
   Roll very thin, tiny snakes of clay. border the windows and the arched door with these strips to create frames. Blend the edges slightly so they look integrated rather than just stuck on.
3. Texture the walls:
   To achieve that rustic, stucco look seen in the photo, gently tap the exterior walls with an old toothbrush or a ball of crinkled aluminum foil. This removes the distinct fingerprint look and adds character.
4. Define the chimney cap:
   Add a slightly larger, flat square of clay to the very top of the chimney to create the cap detail.
5. Drying:
   Allow the house to dry completely. If using air-dry clay, this may take 24-48 hours. I like to rotate it occasionally so the bottom dries evenly. If using polymer clay, bake according to package instructions.

Step 3: Painting and Finishing

1. Base coat:
   Once dry and cool, paint the entire house (except the roof) with a cream or warm off-white acrylic paint. You might need two coats for opaque coverage.
2. Painting the roof:
   Paint the roof shingles with a warm terracotta or burnt orange color. Use a ‘dry brush’ technique afterward with a slightly lighter orange to highlight the texture of the tiles.
3. Window and door details:
   Paint the arched door a soft sage green. Carefully paint the window frames the same green or a soft grey. Fill the window panes with a darker grey to suggest depth.
4. Botanical accents:
   Using your finest liner brush, paint delicate vertical green lines along the base of the house to represent grass stems. Add tiny orange or yellow dots to the tips for wildflowers.
5. Chimney weathering:
   Paint the chimney white to match the house, but dab a little diluted brown paint around the edges and top to make it look soot-stained and aged.
6. Sealing:
   Finish the piece with a coat of matte varnish. This protects the paint and gives the house a cohesive, professional ceramic look without being too shiny.

Place your finished miniature home on a shelf where it can serve as a sweet reminder of comfort and creativity for years to come

Bring a touch of the cosmos into your home with this dreamy, nature-inspired mobile. Using speckled clay and wooden accents creates a warm, minimalist aesthetic perfect for a nursery or peaceful reading nook.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Celestial Bodies

1. Prepare your workspace:
   Lay down a sheet of parchment paper to prevent sticking. Take a handful of your speckled clay and knead it until it’s soft and pliable. If using air-dry clay, keep a small bowl of water nearby to smooth any cracks.
2. Roll the clay slab:
   Using your rolling pin, flatten the clay to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm). Try to keep the thickness consistent across the entire slab so the pieces look uniform when hung together.
3. Cut the basic shapes:
   Use your cookie cutters to punch out a circle (for the top accent), a crescent moon, and a five-pointed star. If you don’t have cutters, you can print simple templates, lay them on the clay, and carefully trace around them with a craft knife.
4. Sculpt the sun:
   For the sun, cut a central circle first. Then, hand-cut small triangles for the rays. Attach the rays to the back of the circle by scoring the clay slightly and pressing them firmly together to create a seamless bond.
5. Add texture:
   If you want a more rustic look, gently press a piece of coarse sandpaper or a textured fabric onto the surface of the wet clay to enhance the speckled, stone-like appearance.
6. Create hanging holes:
   While the clay is still wet, use a toothpick or a skewer to pierce holes for the string. You’ll need a vertical hole running top-to-bottom through the top circle bead (if making one) and top-to-bottom holes through the moon, sun, and star shapes. Ensure the holes are wide enough for your twine.
7. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water and gently run it along the cut edges of your shapes to soften any sharp corners or burrs left by the cutters.
8. Drying time:
   Place your finished shapes on a clean, flat surface to dry. I like to flip them over halfway through the drying process to prevent curling. Let them cure for 24-48 hours, or bake according to package instructions if using polymer clay.

Step 2: Assembly and Finishing

1. Sand and refine:
   Once fully dry, check your pieces for rough spots. Use fine-grit sandpaper to gently smooth the edges or flat surfaces for a professional finish.
2. Seal the clay:
   This step is optional, but applying a coat of clear matte varnish will protect the clay and deepen the natural stone color slightly. Let this dry completely before threading.
3. Prepare the twine:
   Cut a length of jute twine or hemp cord, approximately 24-30 inches long. Fold it in half to create a loop at the top for hanging, and tie a messy knot about 2 inches down to secure the loop.
4. Thread the top section:
   Thread a wooden bead onto the double strand of twine, pushing it up to the knot. Then, thread your top clay circle. Tie a knot below the circle to hold it in place, or secure it with another bead below.
5. Attach the moon:
   Add a wooden bead, tie a knot to hold it, then thread the crescent moon. You can alternate between leaving gaps of exposed twine or stacking beads directly against the clay shapes for different looks.
6. Attach the sun:
   Continue down the line, adding a decorative bead, then threading the sun shape. Make sure to knot the twine underneath the sun shape so it doesn’t slide down onto the star.
7. Finish with the star:
   Thread the final star shape at the bottom. Tie a secure double knot underneath it to act as an anchor.
8. Trim the end:
   Trim any excess twine below the final knot for a clean look, or leave a short tassel if you prefer a more bohemian vibe.

Now hang your celestial creation near a window and enjoy the peaceful movement of your handcrafted sky

Brighten your windows with this charming framed suncatcher, featuring an arched silhouette and vibrant translucent accents. The matte white finish of the clay provides a beautiful modern contrast to the colorful light-catching geometric inserts.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Shaping the Frame

1. Prepare the Clay:
   Begin by conditioning your white clay until it is soft and pliable. Roll it out into a slab that is approximately 1/4 inch thick. You want it substantial enough to hold the inserts but not too heavy to hang.
2. Cut the Outer Arch:
   Use a large arch-shaped cutter or freehand a U-shape onto the clay slab with your craft knife. The total height should be around 6-8 inches. Smooth the outer edges with your finger to soften any sharp cuts.
3. Create the Internal Grid:
   Carefully cut out the interior sections to create the ‘window pane’ effect. Leave a central vertical bar and two horizontal bars to create distinct sections for your shapes, ensuring the frame borders remain about 1/2 inch wide for stability.
4. Cut Geometric Windows:
   Inside the empty spaces you just created, position your geometric cutters or trace shapes. You need a triangle at the top, a horizontal bar section, two circles in the middle, and a diamond/triangle combination at the bottom. Cut these shapes out completely, leaving negative space.
5. Add Suspension Hardware:
   Insert a small metal eye pin into the very top center of the arch. For the dangling lower diamond piece, insert an eye pin into the bottom of the main frame and the top of the separate diamond piece so they can be connected later.
6. Smoothing:
   Take a moment to refine all edges. Dip your finger in a little water (if using air-dry) or baby oil (if polymer) and gently run it along the cut edges to remove any burrs or unevenness.

Step 2: Adding Color & Baking

1. Prepare the Surface:
   Lay your clay frame on a piece of parchment paper on your baking sheet. Ensure it is perfectly flat so the liquid filling won’t run.
2. Mix Translucent Colors:
   In small separate cups, mix translucent liquid clay (or resin) with a drop of alcohol ink. You’ll need four colors: a warm peach/amber, a mustard yellow, a dusty sage green, and a brownish-copper.
3. Fill the Shapes:
   Carefully pour the colored mixture into the cutout geometric voids. Don’t overfill; the liquid should be level with the clay surface. Use a toothpick to guide the liquid into tight corners and pop any bubbles.
4. Pattern Arrangement:
   Follow the reference: Amber for the top triangle, yellow left circle, green right circle, and brownish-copper for the bottom diamond.
5. Curing:
   Bake the piece according to your clay package instructions (usually 275°F/135°C for 15-30 minutes for polymer clay). If using resin with air-dry clay, let the clay dry fully first, then pour and cure the resin separately.

Step 3: Assembly

1. Drilling (Optional):
   If you forgot to add eye pins before baking, use a small hand drill to make tiny holes at the connection points now.
2. Connect the Pieces:
   Use jump rings or open the eye pins slightly to link the bottom dangling diamond element to the main arch frame.
3. Cord Preparation:
   Cut a length of jute twine, about 18 inches long. Fold it in half to create a loop.
4. Attach the Bead:
   Thread the loop end through the top eye pin of the arch, then pass the loose ends through the loop to secure it (a lark’s head knot). Thread a red wooden bead onto the two strands and slide it down to cover the knot/eye pin connection.
5. Final Securement:
   Tie a knot just above the bead to keep it in place, and tie another knot at the ends of the twine to close the hanging loop.

Hang your new geometric art in a sunny spot and enjoy the stained-glass effect created by your handiwork