17+ Purple Clay Bead Bracelet Ideas for a Chic DIY Look

This elegant bracelet pairs deep violet polymer clay heishi beads with lustrous gold cylinder spacers for a timeless look. It is a perfect beginner project that results in a sophisticated piece of jewelry suitable for stacking or wearing solo.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Setting Up

1. Measure your wrist:
   Before cutting any cord, wrap a measuring tape around your wrist to find your size. Add about 1/2 inch to this measurement for a comfortable fit, then add another 4-6 inches for knotting purposes.
2. Prepare the cord:
   Cut your length of elastic cord based on the measurement above. Pre-stretch the cord by gently pulling on both ends a few times; this prevents the bracelet from stretching out permanently later.
3. Secure the end:
   Attach a bead stopper to one end of the elastic cord. If you don’t have a stopper, a simple piece of masking tape folded over the end works perfectly to keep beads from sliding off.

Step 2: Designing the Pattern

1. Plan your spacing:
   Examine the photo reference. The pattern consists of segments of purple beads separated by single gold spacers. Count how many purple discs sit between each gold bead—it looks like roughly 8 to 10 discs per section.
2. Test the segment length:
   Thread 8 purple heishi beads onto the cord. Evaluate if this segment length looks pleasing to you or if you want the gold accents to appear more frequently.

Step 3: Stringing the Beads

1. Start the sequence:
   Begin by stringing your chosen number of purple heishi beads (e.g., 8 beads) onto the elastic.
2. Add the gold accent:
   Slide one gold cylinder spacer bead onto the cord, pushing it down to meet the purple stack.
3. Creating the rhythm:
   Repeat the pattern: add another set of 8 purple beads, followed by one gold spacer. The repetition is key to the clean, classic look.
4. Check sizing often:
   Wrap the strung portion around your wrist occasionally. Stop adding beads when the ends touch comfortably around your wrist without tightness.
5. End the pattern:
   Finish stringing with a final set of purple beads. You want both ends of the cord to have clay beads rather than gold spacers, as clay beads hide knots better.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

1. Prepare for the knot:
   Remove the bead stopper or tape carefully, holding both ends of the elastic firmly so no beads escape.
2. Tie the first knot:
   Cross the ends and tie a simple overhand knot. Pull it tight enough to remove slack between beads but not so tight that the bracelet buckles.
3. The surgeon’s knot:
   For extra security, tie a surgeon’s knot next. Loop the cord through twice before pulling tight. This friction holds the elastic much better than a standard square knot.
4. Secure with glue:
   Dab a tiny amount of jewelry glue or clear nail polish directly onto the knot. I find using a toothpick helps place the glue precisely without getting it on the beads.
5. Hide the knot:
   While the glue is still tacky, gently slide an adjacent purple bead over the knot to conceal it inside the hole.
6. Trim the excess:
   Once the glue is completely dry (wait at least 15 minutes), use your scissors to trim the excess cord ends close to the bead.

Slip your new violet creation onto your wrist and enjoy the pop of color it brings to your outfit

Capture the essence of spring with this dreamy trio of beaded bracelets featuring a soft gradient of purples and creamy whites. This stack combines smooth, polished textures with porous lava stones for a tactile and essential oil-friendly accessory perfect for everyday wear.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Preparation

1. Measure and cut:
   Begin by measuring your wrist with a flexible tape measure. Add roughly half an inch to this measurement for a comfortable fit. Cut three strands of elastic cord, each about 4-5 inches longer than your final bracelet size to give yourself plenty of room for tying knots.
2. Pre-stretch the cord:
   Before you thread a single bead, give each piece of elastic a firm tug several times. This pre-stretching prevents the bracelets from sagging or stretching out permanently after you wear them for the first time.
3. Secure the ends:
   Place a bead stopper or a piece of masking tape on one end of each cord. This simple step saves you from the frustration of beads sliding right off the other end while you work.

Step 2: Bracelet 1: The Ombre Mix

1. Plan the pattern:
   For the top bracelet shown in the stack, you typically want a random or alternating mix. Lay out your beads on a design board or towel first.
2. String the beads:
   Create an alternating pattern: string one dark purple bead, one white bead, one light lavender bead, and repeat. I find that alternating the shades creates that nice speckled look.
3. Check the length:
   Wrap the strand around your wrist to check the fit. Adding or removing one or two beads now is much easier than redoing it later.
4. Tie the knot:
   Secure this first bracelet with a strong surgeon’s knot (right over left, left over right). Pull tight to close the gaps between beads.

Step 3: Bracelet 2: The Solid Lavender

1. Select your beads:
   For the middle band, select only your medium-purple or lilac solid color beads. This solid block of color anchors the stack visually.
2. String the strand:
   Thread enough lilac beads to match the length of your first bracelet exactly. Consistency in size is key for a neat stack.
3. Knot and secure:
   Tie off this second strand using the same surgeon’s knot technique. Apply a tiny dot of jewelry glue to the knot for extra security.

Step 4: Bracelet 3: The Lava Texture

1. Prepare the lava beads:
   The bottom bracelet features white lava stone beads mixed with smooth stones. These have a pitted, crater-like texture.
2. Create the sequence:
   String the lava beads for the front section of the bracelet (about 6-8 beads). Then, fill the rest of the strand (the back part) with your smooth white or very light lavender beads. This creates a textural contrast.
3. Final assembly:
   Tie your final knot securely. Once the glue is slightly tacky but not fully hard, you can try to slide the knot inside the hole of a neighboring bead to hide it.

Step 5: Finishing Touches

1. Trim the excess:
   Once the glue is completely dry on all three bracelets, use your scissors to trim the excess elastic cord close to the knot.
2. Hide the knots:
   Gently tug the beads adjacent to the knots to pull the knot inside the bead hole if possible. This gives the stack a professional, seamless finish.
3. Optional aromatherapy:
   Because you used lava stones on the bottom bracelet, you can now add a drop of lavender essential oil directly onto the porous white beads for a lasting scent.

Now you have a serene, coordinated set of bracelets ready to enhance any springtime outfit

Capture the elegance of a sunset sky with this stunning clay bead bracelet that transitions seamlessly from deep violet to soft lilac. The matte texture of the clay beads adds a modern, sophisticated touch that elevates this simple stringing project into a piece of wearable art.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Mixing the Clay Gradient

1. Prepare base colors:
   Start by conditioning your deep purple and white polymer clay until they are soft and pliable. You will need a significant amount of white to create the lighter gradient shades.
2. Create the darkest shade:
   Set aside a portion of the pure deep purple clay. This will form your darkest beads in the ombré sequence.
3. Mix the first transition color:
   Take a piece of deep purple clay and mix it with a very small amount of white clay. Knead thoroughly until the color is uniform; this creates a shade just slightly lighter than the original.
4. Continue the gradient:
   Repeat the mixing process, gradually increasing the ratio of white to purple clay for each subsequent batch. You want to aim for about 5-6 distinct shades ranging from the original deep purple to a very pale, almost white lilac.
5. Check your palette:
   Line up small balls of each mixed color side-by-side to ensure the transition looks smooth and gradual before committing to rolling all the beads.

Step 2: Forming and Baking Beads

1. Portion the clay:
   Pinch off equal-sized amounts of clay from each color batch. Aim for beads that are roughly 8-10mm in diameter.
2. Roll the spheres:
   Roll each piece of clay between your palms or using a bead roller to create perfectly round spheres.
3. Pierce the holes:
   Using a toothpick or bead needle, carefully pierce a hole through the center of each bead. I like to rotate the bead slightly as I push through to avoid distorting the round shape.
4. Refine the texture:
   To achieve that specific matte, porous look seen in the photo, you can lightly roll the raw beads over a piece of fine sandpaper or texture them gently with a toothbrush before baking.
5. Bake the beads:
   Arrange your beads on a baking sheet or tile and bake according to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific brand of clay (usually around 275°F/135°C for 15-30 minutes).
6. Cool down:
   Let the beads cool completely before handling. If any rough edges remain around the holes, you can sand them lightly now.

Step 3: Assembly and Knotting

1. Cut the cord:
   Cut a length of purple cord about 24 inches long. This generous length allows plenty of room for the adjustable sliding knot.
2. Plan the layout:
   Lay your cooled beads out on a table in the ombré pattern: start with the darkest beads, transition through the medium tones to the lightest lilac in the center, and then reverse the pattern back to dark.
3. String the beads:
   Thread the beads onto the cord following your layout. Ensure the gradient flows smoothly from dark to light and back again.
4. Create the sliding knot:
   Cross the two tail ends of the cord over each other to form a circle. Cut a separate, smaller piece of cord (about 8 inches) to create the macramé square knot closure.
5. Tie the square knots:
   Using the shorter piece of cord, tie a series of square knots around the overlapped main cords. Pull tight, but ensure the main cords can still slide through.
6. Finish the closure:
   Trim the excess from the knotting cord and carefully singe the ends with a lighter to melt them against the knot (or use a dab of superglue).
7. Add stopper knots:
   Tie a simple overhand knot at the very end of each main drawcord to prevent them from slipping out of the sliding closure mechanism.

Slide your new bracelet on and enjoy the soothing spectrum of purple tones on your wrist

This sophisticated project combines various textures and shades of purple for a stunning wrist accessory. By mixing flat clay heishi beads with round speckled accents and matte wooden textures, you’ll create a piece that feels both earthy and elegant.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Preparation

1. Measure your cord:
   Cut a piece of elastic cord about 10-12 inches long. This extra length is crucial for tying a secure knot later without struggling.
2. Pre-stretch:
   Give the cord a few gentle tugs to pre-stretch it. This helps prevent the bracelet from sagging or loosening after you start wearing it.
3. Secure the end:
   Attach a bead stopper or simply clip a binder clip to one end of the cord so your beads don’t slide off while you work.

Step 2: Creating the Pattern

1. Start the first section:
   Begin with a ‘block’ of dark purple heishi beads. Thread on approximately 3 or 4 of these flat disc beads to create a small cylindrical stack.
2. Add first gold accent:
   Slide on a gold heishi spacer followed by a larger round gold bead. This mix of metallic shapes adds varied shine.
3. Introduce texture:
   Thread one of the speckled lavender round beads next. The lighter color provides a nice visual break from the darker tones.
4. Mirror the gold:
   Place another round gold bead, followed by a gold heishi spacer, to frame the speckled bead symmetrically.
5. Second purple block:
   Thread on another stack of 3-4 dark purple heishi beads. Try to keep this count consistent with your first block for a uniform look.
6. Add the wooden bead:
   For the next focal point, use a deep purple round wood bead. Frame it on either side with a single gold heishi spacer for a subtle metallic touch.
7. Repeat the sequence:
   Continue this alternating pattern: Heishi Block → Gold Complex Spacer → Speckled Bead → Gold Complex Spacer → Heishi Block → Simple Spacer → Wood Bead → Simple Spacer.
8. Check the fit:
   Wrap the strand around your wrist occasionally. You want to continue beading until the design wraps comfortably around your wrist without tightness.
9. Adjusting the pattern:
   If you are near the end but the pattern isn’t complete, I usually remove or add a single heishi bead from the blocks to make the length perfect without breaking the sequence.

Step 3: Finishing

1. Pre-knot tension check:
   Remove the bead stopper and bring both ends of the cord together. Ensure there are no gaps between the beads, but don’t pull so tight that the necklace buckles.
2. Tie the knot:
   Tie a standard square knot (right over left, left over right). Pull the elastic firmly to secure it.
3. Secure with surgeon’s knot:
   For extra security, tie another knot, but loop the cord through twice before pulling tight (a surgeon’s knot).
4. Apply adhesive:
   Place a tiny drop of jewelry glue or clear nail polish directly onto the knot. Allow it to dry for a few minutes.
5. Hide the knot:
   Once dried, trim the excess cord ends close to the knot. Carefully slide the knot inside the hole of one of the larger round beads to hide it.

Wear your new bracelet stacked with other gold accessories for a chic, layered look

Capture the soft hues of a spring morning with this delicate mix of heishi beads. This bracelet combines calming lilac, periwinkle blue, and dusty rose clay discs, interspersed with gold spacers for a touch of refined elegance.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparation

1. Measure your wrist:
   Before you begin stringing, wrap a piece of string or tape measure around your wrist to find your size. Add about 0.5 inches to this measurement for a comfortable fit that isn’t too tight.
2. Prepare the workspace:
   Lay out a bead mat or a soft towel. This prevents your clay discs from rolling away and makes them easier to pick up. Pour small amounts of each color into separate piles or bowls.
3. Cut the elastic:
   Cut a piece of elastic cord roughly 10-12 inches long. You want plenty of excess on both sides to make tying the final knot easier.
4. Pre-stretch the cord:
   Gently pull on the elastic cord a few times to pre-stretch it. This crucial step prevents the bracelet from loosening up and sagging after you wear it a few times.
5. Secure the end:
   Place a bead stopper or a piece of masking tape folded over one end of the cord. This acts as a safety barrier so your beads don’t slide right off the other side while you work.

Step 2: Designing and Stringing

1. Establish the pattern:
   Looking at the design, the pattern relies on color blocking rather than a strict 1-2-3 sequence. Notice how there are usually 2-3 beads of the same color grouped together.
2. Start with lilac:
   Begin stringing by adding a small group of the lilac purple beads. I usually start with about three to create a solid block of color.
3. Add a gold accent:
   Slide on a single gold spacer bead. These gold accents serve as dividers between the color changes, adding that sophisticated metallic shine.
4. Introduce the dusty rose:
   Add two or three dusty rose (pale pink) beads next. Ensure the flat sides connect flush against the gold spacer.
5. Switch to periwinkle:
   String on another gold spacer, followed by a set of two to three periwinkle blue beads. Keep checking that the beads are sitting flat against each other.
6. Repeat the sequence:
   Continue this alternating pattern: Color Block A -> Gold Spacer -> Color Block B -> Gold Spacer. Feel free to vary the number of clay beads slightly (2 to 4 beads per block) to give it an organic, handmade feel.
7. Check the length:
   Periodically wrap the beaded cord around your wrist to check the fit. Stop adding beads when the ends meet comfortably without stretching the elastic.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Prepare for the knot:
   Once you have reached your desired length, ensure there is a gold spacer at one end and a clay bead at the other for a seamless join.
2. Tie a surgeon’s knot:
   Remove the tape or bead stopper. Cross the ends, loop one side under twice, and pull tight. This creates a secure surgeon’s knot.
3. Secure with glue:
   While holding the knot taut, dab a tiny drop of jewelry glue or clear nail polish directly onto the knot. This prevents it from slipping over time.
4. Hide the knot:
   Let the glue dry for a moment, then gently tug the elastic so the knot slides inside the hole of the nearest clay bead.
5. Trim the excess:
   Using sharp scissors, trim the remaining tails of the elastic cord as close to the bead as possible without cutting the knot itself.

Now you have a serene, custom-fitted accessory ready to stack with your other favorites

This striking design pairs the deep, matte finish of textured purple clay discs with cheerful pops of sunny yellow focusing beads. The result is a modern, chunky accessory that feels both earthy and bright, perfect for stacking or wearing as a statement piece.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Creating the Polymer Clay Beads

1. Condition the Clay:
   Begin by thoroughly conditioning your purple polymer clay. Knead it in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and warm, which prevents cracking later.
2. Roll the Slab:
   Using your acrylic roller or pasta machine, roll the purple clay out into a thick, even slab. Aim for a thickness of about 4mm to 5mm—you want these beads to be substantial and chunky.
3. Add Texture:
   Before cutting, press a texture sponge, a clean toothbrush, or specific sandpaper gently onto the surface of the clay slab. This creates that lovely matte, stone-like finish visible in the photo.
4. Flip and Repeat:
   Carefully flip the slab over and apply the same texture to the back side so your beads look consistent from every angle.
5. Cut the Discs:
   Using your small round cutter, punch out numerous circles from the purple slab. For a standard wrist, you will likely need between 35 and 45 discs.
6. Smooth the Edges:
   Gently rub the edges of each cut circle with your finger to soften any sharp cutting lines, maintaining the rustic look.
7. Pierce the Holes:
   Using a knitting needle or a thick bead piercer, poke a hole through the center of each purple disc. Ensure the hole is large enough for your elastic cord to pass through easily.
8. Form the Yellow Spacer Beads:
   Condition the yellow clay and roll it into small balls, approximately 4mm in diameter. You will need pairs of two, so make about 10-12 in total.
9. Pierce the Yellow Beads:
   Carefully poke a hole through the center of each small yellow sphere. I find it helpful to let them chill in the fridge for 10 minutes first so they don’t squish while piercing.
10. Bake the Beads:
    Arrange all your beads on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake according to your specific brand’s package instructions (usually 275°F/135°C for 15-30 minutes).
11. Cool Down:
    Once baked, remove the tray from the oven and allow the beads to cool completely before handling. This step hardens the clay fully.

Step 2: Assembly

1. Cut the Elastic:
   Measure a length of elastic cord about 10-12 inches long. This extra length makes tying the knot easier.
2. Pre-stretch the Cord:
   Give the elastic cord a few firm tugs to pre-stretch it. This prevents the bracelet from sagging or loosening after you wear it a few times.
3. Begin Patterning:
   Start stringing your beads. The pattern shown consists of groupings of 5 to 7 purple discs stacked together.
4. Insert Spacers:
   Between each group of purple discs, thread on two small yellow beads. This double-bead spacer adds the unique height variation seen in the design.
5. Check Length:
   Continue the pattern—purple stack, two yellow beads, purple stack—until the strand wraps comfortably around your wrist.
6. Tie the Knot:
   Bring the ends together and tie a surgeon’s knot (right over left, left over right, and loop through a second time for security).
7. Secure and Trim:
   Apply a tiny dot of super glue to the knot to lock it in place. Let it dry, then trim the excess cord ends close to the knot, tucking it inside one of the purple beads if posisble.

Slip on your new textured bracelet and enjoy the cheerful contrast of colors on your wrist

This charming, lightweight bracelet features a string of uniform purple disk beads anchored by a sweet, natural-toned heart centerpiece. It’s a simple yet elegant design that balances the rustic texture of clay with a soft, romantic focal point, perfect for everyday wear.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparation & Planning

1. Measure your wrist:
   Wrap a measuring tape loosely around your wrist to determine the circumference. Add about half an inch to this measurement to ensure the bracelet isn’t too tight once the beads take up space.
2. Cut the cord:
   Cut a piece of elastic cord approximately 10-12 inches long. Having this extra length makes tying the final knots significantly easier than struggling with short ends.
3. Pre-stretch the elastic:
   Give your cut piece of elastic a few gentle tugs. This pre-stretching step helps prevent the bracelet from sagging or losing its shape after you wear it a few times.
4. Secure the end:
   Place a piece of tape or attach a binder clip to one end of the cord. This acts as a ‘bead stopper’ so your purple disks don’t slide right off while you work.

Step 2: Stringing the Beads

1. Start with purple disks:
   Begin threading the purple clay disk beads onto the cord. You aim to complete exactly half of the bracelet’s length during this first pass.
2. Check consistency:
   As you string, glance at the beads to ensure they are facing the same direction if they have a slight curvature, though most clay disks are fairly uniform.
3. Add the centerpiece:
   Once you have reached the halfway point, slide on the heart-shaped bead. Ensure the hole runs horizontally through the heart so it sits flat against the wrist.
4. Complete the loop:
   Continue threading the remaining purple disk beads onto the other side of the heart until you reach the full length needed for your wrist size.
5. Verify the size:
   Wrap the unfinished strand around your wrist to check the fit. The two ends should meet comfortably without stretching the cord, allowing a little room for the knot.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Prepare to knot:
   Remove the tape or clip from the end carefully. Hold both ends of the elastic firmly so no beads escape.
2. Tie the first knot:
   Cross the left end over the right and pull tight to form a simple overhand knot. Pull it taut to bring the beads snugly together, removing any gaps.
3. Tie a surgical knot:
   For the second knot, cross the strands again, but loop one end through twice instead of once before pulling tight. This extra loop adds significant friction and security.
4. Secure with glue:
   I like to apply a tiny drop of super glue or jewelry cement directly onto the knot. Be extremely careful not to get glue on the wooden heart or the clay beads, just the knot itself.
5. Hide the knot:
   While the glue is still slightly tacky but not wet, slide the knot inside the hole of the nearest purple bead if the hole is large enough. This conceals the mechanics for a professional finish.
6. Trim the excess:
   Once the glue is fully dry, use sharp scissors to trim the excess cord ends close to the knot.

Slip your new bracelet on and enjoy the pop of purple color on your wrist

Embrace the gentle hues of spring with this delightful beaded bracelet, featuring matte purple spheres and a striking floral centerpiece. This project combines simple stringing techniques with elegant gold accents for a wearable piece of garden-inspired art.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Planning and Preparation

1. Measure your wrist:
   Start by measuring your wrist circumference just below the wrist bone using a flexible measuring tape. Add about half an inch to an inch to this measurement, depending on how loose you like your bracelets to fit.
2. Cut the wire:
   Cut a length of beading wire approximately 10-12 inches long. Having this extra length makes it much easier to finish the ends without frustration.
3. Secure one end:
   Attach a bead stopper or a piece of masking tape to one end of your wire. This prevents your beads from sliding off while you design your pattern.
4. Layout your design:
   Placement is key for a balanced look. Lay your beads out on a bead board or soft cloth. Place the large flower bead in the absolute center, flanked by gold spacer beads, then arrange the purple round beads extending outward to your desired length.

Step 2: Stringing the Beads

1. Start the sequence:
   Begin stringing from one side of your layout. Thread on the purple round beads until you reach the point where your gold accents begin.
2. Add gold accents:
   Slide on one gold spacer bead after your first section of purple beads. This metallic pop acts as a visual frame.
3. Position the focal point:
   Thread on two to three more purple beads, followed by the large flower focal bead. Ensure the flower faces outward comfortably.
4. Mirror the design:
   Continuing past the flower, add two to three more purple beads to maintain symmetry.
5. Complete the pattern:
   Add the second gold spacer bead, matching the placement on the first side.
6. Finish stringing:
   Thread the remaining purple round beads onto the wire. Pick up the bracelet carefully by the ends to check the sizing around your wrist before moving to the closure steps.

Step 3: Attaching the Clasp

1. Prepare the first crimp:
   Remove the bead stopper. Slide a crimp bead onto the wire, followed by the gold jump ring.
2. Create the loop:
   Thread the wire tail back through the crimp bead, creating a small loop that holds the jump ring securely but allows it to move freely.
3. Secure the crimp:
   Use your crimping pliers to flatten the crimp bead firmly. I always give a gentle tug here to ensure the hold is secure.
4. Hide the tail:
   Thread the excess wire tail back through the first 2-3 purple beads for a neat finish, then trim the wire close to the beads.
5. Cover the crimp:
   Place a gold crimp cover over the flat crimp bead. Gently squeeze it closed with pliers until it resembles a round gold bead.

Step 4: Final Touches

1. Secure the other side:
   Move to the other end of the bracelet. Slide on a crimp bead, followed by the lobster clasp.
2. Loop and tighten:
   Pass the wire back through the crimp bead and pull it tight enough to remove slack, but loose enough that the bracelet remains flexible and drapes well.
3. Final crimp:
   Crimp the bead securely using your pliers. Thread the remaining tail through adjacent beads and trim off the excess wire.
4. Add the final cover:
   Apply the second crimp bead cover over the flattened crimp, carefully rounding it out to match the other side and the gold spacers.

Enjoy wearing your new bracelet that carries a touch of eternal spring wherever you go

Capture the magic of the night sky with these mesmerizing galaxy-inspired beads. By mixing deep plums, rich purples, and speckled white paint, you’ll create a stunning piece of jewelry that truly looks out of this world.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Creating the Galaxy Base

1. Prepare your clay:
   Begin by conditioning the deep purple polymer clay until it is soft and pliable. I like to mix in a tiny pinch of translucent clay here, which adds depth to the color once baked.
2. Roll the main beads:
   Pinch off uniform pieces of the dark purple clay. Roll them between your palms to create smooth, round spheres approximately 8-10mm in diameter.
3. Create accent beads:
   Repeat the rolling process with the lavender or light purple clay. You will need fewer of these; aim for about 2-3 accent beads for the focal point of the bracelet.
4. Pierce the holes:
   Gently twist a toothpick or piercing tool through the center of each bead. Rotate the bead as you push to keep the shape round.

Step 2: Adding the Starry Details

1. Prepare the splatter:
   Place your unbaked dark purple beads on a sheet of parchment paper. Dilute a small amount of white acrylic paint with a drop of water so it flows easily but isn’t too runny.
2. Apply the stars:
   Dip an old toothbrush into the white paint mixture. Run your thumb across the bristles to flick tiny specks of paint onto the dark beads.
3. Check density:
   Aim for a fine mist of speckles rather than large blobs. Rotate the beads carefully to ensure the ‘stars’ cover all sides evenly.
4. Bake the clay:
   Transfer all beads (dark speckled ones and the plain lavender ones) to a baking sheet. Bake according to your brand of polymer clay’s instructions, usually around 275°F (135°C) for 15-20 minutes.
5. Cool down:
   Let the beads cool completely before handling. This hardening phase is crucial for durability.

Step 3: Glazing and Assembly

1. Apply varnish:
   Brush a coat of glossy varnish or UV resin over the speckled beads to seal the paint and give them a shiny, glass-like finish. Leave the lavender beads matte for contrast.
2. Design the pattern:
   Lay out your design on a bead board or soft cloth. Place the lavender beads in the center, flanked by dark galaxy beads, inserting silver spacers occasionally for sparkle.
3. Measure the cord:
   Cut a piece of elastic cord about 10-12 inches long. Pre-stretch the cord by pulling it gently a few times to prevent sagging later.
4. String the beads:
   Thread the beads onto the cord following your layout. I usually start with a knot-hider bead or a larger hole bead if possible to tuck the knot away later.
5. Check the fit:
   Wrap the strung beads around your wrist to ensure the size is comfortable. Add or remove a dark galaxy bead if necessary.
6. Tie the knot:
   Secure the bracelet with a surgeon’s knot (right over left, left over right, loop through twice). Pull tighter than you think you need to.
7. Secure the finish:
   Add a tiny dab of jewelry glue or clear nail polish to the knot for extra security.
8. Trim excess:
   Once the glue dries, trim the tails of the cord close to the knot and carefully tuck the knot inside one of the adjacent beads.

Wear your new galaxy bracelet proudly and enjoy carrying a piece of the cosmos with you wherever you go

This elegant bracelet balances rich royal purple tones with delicate white swirls, creating a mesmerizing marbled effect. Interspersed with gleaming gold spacers, these handmade clay beads offer a sophisticated look that pairs beautifully with nature-inspired aesthetics.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Marbling the Clay

1. Condition the clay:
   Start by warming up your purple and white polymer clay separately in your hands. Knead them until they are soft, pliable, and easy to work with.
2. Create clay logs:
   Roll the purple clay into a thick log, about 1 inch in diameter. Roll the white clay into several thinner snakes.
3. Combine colors:
   Lay the thin white snakes lengthwise along the purple log. Twist the entire bundle together like a candy cane to begin integrating the colors.
4. Fold and roll:
   Fold the twisted log in half and roll it out again into a smooth cylinder. Repeat this ‘fold and twist’ motion about 3-4 times. Be careful not to over-mix; you want distinct swirls, not a light purple blend.
5. Check the pattern:
   I like to slice off a small end piece to check the cross-section. If the marbling looks too chunky, give it one more fold and roll.

Step 2: Forming the Beads

1. Portion the clay:
   Use your clay blade to slice the log into equal-sized segments. Aim for pieces that will roll into beads approximately 10-12mm in diameter. Consistency here ensures a neat final bracelet.
2. Roll spheres:
   Take a segment and roll it swiftly between your palms to form a smooth ball. Applying gentle pressure helps eliminate air pockets and surface seams.
3. Create variety:
   For the solid purple beads seen in the design, simply use your plain purple clay without the white swirls. Roll these into identical sized spheres.
4. Pierce the holes:
   Hold a bead gently between your thumb and finger. Using a piercing pin, twist carefully through the center of the sphere. Twist as you push to avoid squashing the round shape.
5. Inspect shapes:
   After piercing, the bead might be slightly distorted. Give it a very gentle roll between your fingers to restore perfect roundness before baking.

Step 3: Baking and Finishing

1. Bake the beads:
   arranging the beads on a bead rack or a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake according to your clay manufacturer’s instructions (usually around 275°F/130°C for 15-30 minutes per 1/4 inch thickness).
2. Cool down:
   Allow the beads to cool completely in the oven or on a wire rack. Clay is fragile when hot, so patience is key here.
3. Sand for smoothness:
   Once cool, use wet sandpaper to buff away any fingerprints or lint. Start with a lower grit and move to a higher grit for a silky matte finish.
4. Buff or glaze:
   For a natural stone look, buff the beads vigorously with a soft cloth (denim works great). If you prefer a high shine, apply a thin coat of gloss glaze now.

Step 4: Assembly

1. Arrange the pattern:
   Lay out your beads on a design board or towel. The pattern shown alternates between marbled beads and solid beads, separated by small gold spacers.
2. String the beads:
   Cut a piece of elastic cord about 10 inches long. String your beads, ensuring you place a gold spacer between every clay bead.
3. Knot the cord:
   Tie the elastic using a surgeon’s knot (right over left, left over right, and loop through twice). Pull the knot tight to secure the tension.
4. Hide the knot:
   Add a tiny drop of jewelry glue to the knot. Once tacked, trim the excess cord and gently pull the knot inside one of the larger clay beads to hide it.

Now you have a stunning, custom piece of jewelry to wear or gift.

This sophisticated bracelet plays with perception by mixing two distinct finishes of the same vibrant purple hue. By alternating between smooth, polished discs and textured, matte clay beads, you create a piece that feels as interesting as it looks.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Creating the Clay Canvas

1. Condition the Clay:
   Warm the purple polymer clay in your hands, kneading it thoroughly until it becomes soft and pliable. This conditioning step prevents cracks during baking.
2. Roll Out the Slab:
   Using your acrylic roller or pasta machine on a medium setting, roll the clay into a flat, even sheet. Aim for a thickness of about 3-4mm to give the beads substantial presence.
3. Adjust Thickness:
   Inspect your slab for air bubbles. Pop them gently with a pin and smooth over the area to ensure your final discs are perfectly uniform.

Step 2: Cutting and Piercing

1. Cut the Discs:
   Press your round cutter firmly into the clay to create individual discs. You will need approximately 40-50 beads for a standard wrist size, so cut extras just in case.
2. Release the Clay:
   If the clay sticks inside the cutter, gently push it out using the back of a paintbrush or simply dip the cutter in cornstarch before pressing down.
3. Piercing the Centers:
   Find the exact center of each disc. Using your bead piercer or a small straw, create a hole straight through the middle. Twist the tool gently as you push through to keep the shape round.
4. Texturing the ‘Matte’ Beads:
   Separate half of your bead batch. For these, lightly press a piece of coarse sandpaper or a stiff toothbrush against the surface to create a subtle, stony texture before baking.

Step 3: Baking and Finishing

1. Bake the Beads:
   Arrange the beads on a baking tile or parchment-lined tray. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific brand of clay regarding temperature and time.
2. Cool Down:
   Once baked, let the beads cool completely. Hardening occurs during the cooling process, so don’t be alarmed if they feel slightly flexible right out of the oven.
3. Sand the Edges:
   Take the ‘matte’ distinct batch and sand the edges lightly if they feel sharp. Leave the textured faces alone.
4. Gloss the Smooth Batch:
   Take the other half of the beads (the untextured ones). Apply a thin, even coat of glossy glaze or UV resin to the faces and edges. Cure or dry according to the product instructions.
5. Second Coat (Optional):
   I usually like to apply a second thin coat of glaze to ensure a glass-like finish that contrasts sharply with the matte beads.

Step 4: Assembly

1. Prepare the Wire:
   Cut a length of gold beading wire about 10 inches long. Secure one end with a crimp bead and attach the gold lobster clasp.
2. Begin Stringing:
   Start threading your beads. The specific pattern shown here groups similar beads together: thread 4-5 glossy beads, followed by 1 or 2 matte beads.
3. Vary the Groups:
   Don’t be afraid to make the pattern slightly irregular. Sometimes use three matte beads in a row, then switch back to a long run of glossy ones. This organic grouping mimics the image’s style.
4. Check the Length:
   Wrap the strand around your wrist occasionally to check the fit. Remember to leave a little room for movement.
5. Finish the Strand:
   Once you reach the desired length, thread on a crimp bead and a jump ring. Loop the wire back through the crimp bead and crush it flat with pliers.
6. Cover and Snip:
   Apply crimp covers over your crushed crimps for a professional gold bead look. Snip off any excess wire tail close to the bead.

Enjoy wearing your handcrafted textural masterpiece

Embrace the calming hues of lavender and lilac with this handcrafted polymer clay bracelet. Featuring a mix of solid, speckled, and terrazzo-style beads, this project combines soft pastels with striking textures for a modern, adjustable accessory.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Creating the Clay Base Colors

1. Conditioning:
   Start by conditioning your polymer clay blocks until they are soft and pliable. You will need a medium purple, a light lavender, and a pure white.
2. Mixing custom shades:
   To get the dusty mauve seen in the photo, try mixing a tiny bit of brown or grey into your medium purple. For the palest beads, mix a large amount of white with just a speck of lavender.

Step 2: Technique 1: Terrazzo Beads

1. Chopping the confetti:
   Take small scraps of blue, dark purple, and white clay. Use your blade to chop them into tiny, random irregular chunks. These will become your terrazzo ‘chips’.
2. Rolling the base:
   Roll a smooth ball of white clay about the size of a marble (approx. 12-14mm).
3. Applying the chips:
   Pour your chopped clay chips onto your work surface. Roll the white ball over the chips so they stick to the surface.
4. Smoothing:
   Gently roll the bead between your palms again. The chips will embed themselves into the clay, creating a smooth, flat surface with the colorful flecks visible.

Step 3: Technique 2: Faux Stone Speckle

1. Forming solid beads:
   Roll several beads in your solid purple and lavender shades. Aim for consistent sizing, though slight variations add to the organic look.
2. Creating the splatter:
   Dip a stiff toothbrush into watered-down black or dark blue acrylic paint. Run your thumb across the bristles to flick tiny specks of paint onto the unbaked clay beads.
3. Alternative: Granitex effect:
   If you prefer not to paint, you can mix ground black pepper or dried used coffee grounds directly into white or lavender clay before rolling to achieve an organic speckled texture.

Step 4: Baking and Finishing

1. Piercing:
   Carefully pierce a hole through the center of each bead using a bead pin or toothpick. Rotate the pin as you push through to avoid distorting the sphere shape.
2. Baking:
   Arrange the beads on a baking sheet or suspended on a bead rack. Bake according to your brand of clay’s instructions (usually 275°F/130°C for 15-30 minutes).
3. Sanding and varnishing:
   Once cool, lightly sand the terrazzo beads under water to really make the colors pop. Seal all beads with a light coat of varnish if you want a glossy ceramic look, or leave them raw for a matte finish.

Step 5: Assembly

1. Stringing the beads:
   Cut a length of purple waxed cord (about 12 inches). Thread your beads in an alternating pattern—solid, terrazzo, speckled—until you reach your desired length.
2. Adding buffer knots:
   For a little extra detail, you can tie a simple overhand knot on either side of the bead section to keep them centered.
3. Creating the sliding knot:
   Overlap the two ends of the cord. Cut a separate piece of cord (about 5 inches) and use it to tie a series of square knots (macrame flat knots) over the two overlapped strands.
4. Finishing the ends:
   Trim the excess from your sliding knot piece and carefully melt or glue the ends. Tie a small bead or a simple knot at the very tips of the main cords to prevent them from slipping through the closure.

Slide your new bracelet on and enjoy the custom textural blend you’ve created.

Capture the soft, ethereal glow of sunlight with this mix of translucent and opaque purple beads. By combining jelly-like resin or clay beads with solid pastels and shimmering spacers, this bracelet achieves a dreamy, high-end look perfect for stacking.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Crafting the Clay Beads

1. Conditioning the Translucent Clay:
   Start by thoroughly kneading your translucent light purple clay. Translucent clay needs extra conditioning to prevent ‘plaquing’ (tiny moon-like marks), so work it until it is completely smooth and pliable.
2. Rolling Jelly Spheres:
   Pinch off equal-sized portions of the translucent clay, aiming for roughly 8mm balls. Roll them strictly between your palms first, then finish with an acrylic block or bead roller for perfect spheres.
3. Creating Opaque Beads:
   Repeat the rolling process with your opaque lavender clay. Aim to make these slightly smaller than the jelly beads, perhaps around 6mm, to create visual rhythm in the finished strand.
4. Making the Focal Bead:
   Mix a small amount of pearl or glitter white clay into your lavender clay to create a shimmering effect. Shape this into a flattened coin or ‘lentil’ shape rather than a sphere to serve as a unique focal point.
5. Piercing the Holes:
   Gently insert a bead pin or toothpick through the center of each unbaked bead. Use a twisting motion to avoid squashing the shape. I like to pierce halfway from one side, then flip and pierce the other side to ensure the hole is centered.
6. Baking:
   Arrange your beads on a baking tile or in a bed of cornstarch (to prevent flat spots). Bake according to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific brand of clay, usually at 275°F (130°C) for 30 minutes.
7. Cooling and Quenching:
   Immediately plunge the hot translucent beads into a bowl of ice water after removing them from the oven. This thermal shock helps clarity significantly for that true ‘jelly’ look.

Step 2: Finishing and Assembly

1. Sanding for Smoothness:
   Once cool, check for fingerprints. Wet sand the beads lightly with 400 then 800 grit sandpaper under running water to create a silky surface.
2. Glazing:
   To maximize the wet, jelly-like appearance, coat the translucent beads with a high-gloss urethane glaze or a thin layer of UV resin and cure. Leave the opaque beads matte or give them a satin finish for contrast.
3. Planning the Pattern:
   Layout your design on a bead board. The pattern in the image alternates: one translucent bead, a tiny faceted glass spacer, one opaque bead, a spacer, and so on. Place the flat shimmer bead as the centerpiece.
4. Stringing:
   Cut a 10-inch length of elastic cord. Pre-stretch it by pulling firmly on the ends a few times; this prevents the bracelet from stretching out later.
5. Threading the Beads:
   String your pattern onto the elastic. Ensure the small faceted spacer beads sit snugly between the larger clay beads to act as sparkling separators.
6. Checking the Fit:
   Wrap the strand around your wrist to check the size. Add or remove beads symmetrically from the ends if needed.
7. Tying the Knot:
   Secure the bracelet with a surgeon’s knot (loop the thread twice on the first pass, then once on the second pass). Pull it tight.
8. Securing:
   Apply a tiny drop of super glue or jewelry adhesive directly onto the knot. Allow it to dry completely before trimming the excess cord.
9. Hiding the Knot:
   If possible, gently tug the elastic so the knotted section slips inside the hole of one of the larger opaque beads to hide it from view.

Slip on your new bracelet and enjoy the way the sunlight catches those beautiful jelly beads

This elegant bracelet explores the full spectrum of purple, from deep plum to soft lavender, using polymer clay to create bespoke beads with distinct textural finishes. The mix of smooth spheres, flat discs, and porous lava-like textures creates a sophisticated accessory that pairs perfectly with casual linen or dressier styles.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Creating the Clay Palette

1. Condition the Clay:
   Begin by conditioning your polymer clay blocks until they are soft and pliable. You will need a base of dark purple and white.
2. Mix Custom Shades:
   Create a gradient of purples. Leave some dark purple pure. Mix dark purple with a tiny bit of white for a plum shade. Mix a larger amount of white with purple for a lilac tone. Aim for at least 3-4 distinct shades.
3. Create Speckled Effects:
   For the medium-tone purple beads seen in the image, shave tiny crumbs of baked dark clay (or black pepper for an organic look) into your raw lavender clay and knead gently to distribute the specks without blending them fully.

Step 2: Forming the Beads

1. Roll Smooth Spheres:
   Take the speckled lavender clay and roll small portions into perfect spheres, roughly 10mm in diameter. These will be your focal round beads.
2. Pierce the Holes:
   Gently twist a needle tool or toothpick through the center of each sphere to create the bead hole. Rotate the bead as you push to keep it round.
3. Create the Disc Beads:
   Roll snakes of your solid purple and darker plum colors. Slice them into even segments to ensure uniform size.
4. Flatten and Shape:
   Roll each segment into a ball, then squash it gently into a thick disc shape ( rondelle). You can also use a small round cutter on a rolled sheet of clay for perfectly uniform edges.
5. Add Texture:
   Use a coarse texture sponge, a piece of sandpaper, or a toothbrush to gently tap the surface of the darker plum discs. This creates the porous, lava-stone look.
6. Refine the Holes:
   Pierce holes through the center of your textured discs and plain discs. Ensure the holes are large enough for your beading wire.
7. Bake the Clay:
   Arrange all beads on a parchment-lined baking sheet or a bead rack. Bake according to your brand’s specific temperature instructions (usually 230°F – 275°F) for about 30 minutes.

Step 3: Assembly

1. Prepare the Wire:
   Cut a length of beading wire about 9 inches long. Attach a crimp bead and one half of your clasp to one end to secure it.
2. Plan the Pattern:
   Lay out your bead design on a bead mat. I like to alternate groups: typically 2-3 dark textured discs followed by a contrasting gold spacer or a large smooth speckled bead.
3. Stringing:
   Thread the beads onto the wire following your pattern. Insert gold heishi spacers between color transitions to add that metallic shine.
4. Adding the Charm:
   About one-third of the way through the strand, or wherever you prefer an accent, slide on a gold jump ring holding the hammered disc charm.
5. Closing the Bracelet:
   Once the strand is the desired length (usually 6.5 to 7 inches), feed the end through a crimp bead and the extension chain loop.
6. Securing the Crimp:
   Loop the wire back through the crimp bead and pull tight. Flatten the crimp bead with your pliers and trim the excess wire.

Enjoy the soothing process of creating this tactile jewelry piece that adds a pop of amethyst color to your wrist

Embrace the elegance of mixed patterns with this sophisticated bracelet design, featuring smooth amethyst tones and playful micro-checkerboards. Using polymer clay allows you to create custom beads with distinct textures and finishes, resulting in a cohesive yet dynamic accessory.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Creating the Solid & Glitter Beads

1. Condition the Clay:
   Begin by thoroughly conditioning your deep plum clay until it is soft and pliable. Do the same for your glitter-infused clay. If you don’t have pre-mixed glitter clay, knead fine silver or purple glitter into a translucent purple block.
2. Form Solid Rounds:
   Pinch off equal-sized portions of the solid plum clay. Roll them between your palms to create smooth, round spheres approximately 8-10mm in diameter.
3. Create Glitter Accents:
   Repeat the rolling process with your glitter clay to make about 4-5 beads. These will add a subtle sparkle that contrasts beautifully with the matte solid beads.
4. Texture the Ribbed Beads:
   Take a few of the solid plum spheres and gently roll them over a fine-toothed comb or use a needle tool to etch horizontal rings around the circumference. This mimics a ribbed, yarn-like texture.
5. Pierce the Holes:
   Using your needle tool, carefully pierce a hole through the center of each bead. I like to twist the needle as I push to prevent the bead from squishing out of shape.

Step 2: Creating the Checkerboard Cane

1. Make Slabs:
   Roll out a sheet of white clay and a sheet of plum clay to the same thickness (setting 3 or 4 on a pasta machine works well).
2. Stack and Cut:
   Cut squares from both sheets. Stack them alternating colors—white, purple, white, purple—until you have a tall block about 1 inch high.
3. Slice and Reassemble:
   Slice the stack vertically into thin slabs. Reassemble these slices, offsetting them slightly so the colors create a checkerboard pattern rather than stripes.
4. Reduce the Cane:
   Gently squeeze and elongate the square cane to reduce the pattern size. You want the checks to be quite small, almost ‘micro’ in scale.
5. Wrap the Beads:
   Slice thin veneers from your reduced checkerboard cane. Wrap these veneers around small balls of scrap clay, smoothing the seams until the bead is perfectly round and the pattern is continuous.
6. Pierce Checker Beads:
   Carefully pierce holes in your patterned beads, ensuring you don’t distort the delicate geometric design.

Step 3: Baking and Assembly

1. Bake the Beads:
   Arrange all your beads on a ceramic tile or baking sheet lined with heavy paper. Bake according to the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific brand of clay (usually 265°F-275°F for 30-45 minutes).
2. Cool and Sand:
   Allow the beads to cool completely. If there are fingerprints, wet sand them gently with 400 grit sandpaper, moving up to 1000 grit for a silky smooth finish.
3. Buff (Optional):
   For a bit of sheen on the solid beads, buff them vigorously with a piece of denim or a soft cloth. Leave the ribbed beads unbuffed to maintain their texture.
4. Layout Design:
   Lay out your beads on a bead board or towel. Alternate the solid matte beads with the checkerboard and glitter ones to create a balanced rhythm.
5. String the Bracelet:
   Cut a piece of elastic cord about 10 inches long. Pre-stretch it by pulling firmly a few times; this prevents the bracelet from loosening later.
6. Thread Beads:
   String your arranged beads onto the elastic. Check the size on your wrist, adding or removing a solid bead if necessary for the perfect fit.
7. Secure the Knot:
   Tie a surgeon’s knot (right over left twice, then left over right). Pull tight to secure the tension.
8. Final Glue:
   Apply a tiny dot of super glue or jewelry cement to the knot. Let it dry, then trim the excess cord and tuck the knot inside one of the larger hole beads.

Slip on your new custom accessory and enjoy the rich purple hues

This charming bracelet combines the earthy texture of polymer clay disc beads with gleaming spacer accents for a look that is both casual and refined. The varying shades of amethyst and lavender create a beautiful depth, making it a perfect accessory for stacking or wearing solo.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Preparation

1. Measure your wrist:
   Wrap a flexible measuring tape around your wrist to find your size. Add about 0.5 inches to this measurement to ensure the bracelet fits comfortably without pinching.
2. Cut the cord:
   Cut a piece of elastic cord about 10-12 inches long. Having extra length makes it much easier to tie the final knot securely.
3. Pre-stretch the elastic:
   Give the elastic cord a few gentle tugs before you start beading. This pre-stretching helps prevent the bracelet from sagging or loosening up after you wear it a few times.
4. Secure the end:
   Place a bead stopper or a piece of masking tape on one end of the cord to stop your beads from sliding off while you work.

Step 2: Beading Pattern

1. Start the main sequence:
   Begin stringing your purple disc beads. Add about 10-12 purple discs onto the cord. These will form the main sections of color.
2. Add first gold accent:
   Slide on one of the thicker gold rondelle spacers. This creates a bold visual break in the purple pattern.
3. Second purple section:
   String another set of approximately 5-6 purple disc beads. I like to vary the number slightly to check how the pattern sits on the wrist.
4. Insert thin spacer:
   Add a thin, flat gold spacer bead. This subtle flash of metal adds elegance without overpowering the purple tones.
5. Continue the pattern:
   Add another group of purple discs, aiming for roughly the same length as your previous section.
6. Mirror the accents:
   Place another large gold rondelle spacer, followed by a small section of purple beads, and then another thin gold spacer.
7. Fill the length:
   Continue alternating large sections of purple beads with your gold spacers until the bracelet reaches your desired length.
8. Verify the fit:
   Wrap the beaded cord around your wrist to check the size. If there are gaps, add a few more purple discs; if it’s too loose, remove a couple.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Prepare to tie:
   Remove the bead stopper or tape carefully, holding both ends of the elastic firmly.
2. Tie a surgeon’s knot:
   Cross the ends, wrap one end under, and then wrap it under a second time before pulling tight. This extra loop adds significant security compared to a standard square knot.
3. Secure the knot:
   Apply a tiny drop of super glue or jewelry cement directly onto the knot. Be careful not to get glue on the neighboring beads.
4. Hide the knot:
   While the glue is still slightly tacky but not wet, slide a bead over the knot if the hole is large enough. If not, just let it dry completely.
5. Trim excess cord:
   Once the glue is fully dry, use your scissors to trim the excess elastic tails close to the knot, leaving just a tiny bit to prevent slipping.

Enjoy your handmade bracelet and the lovely pop of color it brings to your day

Embrace the soothing spectrum of purple with this elegant trio of stacked bracelets. Combining different textures—from glossy semi-precious stones to matte clay finishes and a touch of gold—this set creates a sophisticated, layered look perfect for everyday wear.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparation

1. Measure your wrist:
   Before cutting any cord, wrap a measuring tape comfortably around your wrist where you want the bracelets to sit.
2. Determine strand length:
   Add about 1/2 inch to your wrist measurement for a comfortable fit, or 1 inch if you prefer them loose.
3. Prepare the workspace:
   Lay out a bead mat or soft towel to prevent your round beads from rolling away while you design your pattern.
4. Cut the cord:
   Cut three pieces of elastic cord, making each about 10-12 inches long. Having extra length makes tying the finishing knots much easier.
5. Secure the ends:
   Place a bead stopper or a piece of masking tape on one end of each cord strand.

Step 2: Deep Purple Matte Bracelet (Middle)

1. Sort your beads:
   Select your matte deep purple beads. These act as the bold anchor for the stack.
2. String the beads:
   Thread the deep purple beads onto the first piece of elastic until you reach your desired length.
3. Check the fit:
   Wrap the strand around your wrist to verify sizing before tying off.
4. Knot the finish:
   Tie a secure surgeon’s knot (right over left, left over right, looping through twice). I like to pull the elastic tight to pre-stretch it slightly before the final tug.
5. Hide the knot:
   Apply a tiny drop of glue to the knot, let it dry for a moment, trim the excess cord, and if the hole allows, tuck the knot inside an adjacent bead.

Step 3: Lavender & Gold Bracelet (Right)

1. Plan the focal point:
   For the lighter matte purple strand, locate the center point where you will place the gold accent.
2. Start stringing:
   Thread about half of your required matte lilac beads onto the second cord.
3. Add the gold accent:
   Slide on your group of gold spacer beads. In the example, about 4-5 flat disc spacers are used to create a small metallic block.
4. Finish the strand:
   Continue stringing the remaining lilac matte beads until the length matches the first bracelet.
5. Tie and glue:
   Repeat the surgeon’s knot and glue process to secure this second bracelet.

Step 4: Glossy Pale Lilac Bracelet (Left)

1. Select smooth beads:
   Grab your glossy, pale lavender or pink-toned beads. These add a crucial texture contrast to the matte stones.
2. String the final strand:
   Thread these beads onto your third cord piece. This strand is usually kept simple with no spacers to let the glossy finish shine.
3. Final sizing check:
   Hold all three strands together around your wrist one last time to ensure they drape nicely as a set.
4. Secure the final knot:
   Perform the final surgeon’s knot, glue, and trim the excess cord carefully.
5. Curing time:
   Allow the glue on all three bracelets to dry for at least 24 hours before stretching or wearing them.

Slide on your new amethyst-inspired stack and enjoy the beautiful play of textures and purple hues on your wrist