19+ Simple Air Dry Clay Ideas for Beginners

This rustic, warmly colored dish brings an earthy charm to any bedside table or shelf. With its simple cylindrical shape and a delicate band of carved geometric patterns, it mimics the classic look of wheel-thrown terracotta pottery without needing a kiln.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Forming the Base

1. Roll the slab:
   Begin by taking a handful of air dry clay and kneading it until soft and pliable. Use your rolling pin to roll it out into an even slab, aiming for a thickness of about 1/4 inch.
2. Cut the circle:
   Place your circular template onto the slab and use your clay knife to cut out a perfect circle. This will serve as the bottom of your dish.
3. Smoothing the edges:
   Dip your finger lightly in water and run it along the cut edge of the circle to smooth out any roughness or loose bits of clay.

Step 2: Building the Walls

1. Create a coil or strip:
   You have two options here: roll a long, even coil, or cut a long rectangular strip from your remaining clay slab. For the straight-sided look in the photo, a rectangular strip about 1 inch tall works best.
2. Measure the length:
   Wrap the strip loosely around your base to check the length, cutting off any excess so the ends just barely overlap.
3. Score and slip:
   Use your knife to make small cross-hatch scratches (scoring) on the outer edge of the base circle and the bottom edge of your clay strip. Dab a little water (slip) on these rough areas.
4. Attach the wall:
   Press the strip firmly onto the base. Where the two ends of the strip meet, score and slip them as well, blending the seam together with your thumb until it disappears.
5. Blend the join:
   Work your way around the inside and outside of the dish, using a modelling tool or your wooden skewer to drag clay across the seam connecting the wall to the base, ensuring a strong bond.
6. Refine the shape:
   Use a damp sponge to smooth out your blending marks. Check that the walls are standing straight up, effectively creating a low cylinder shape.

Step 3: Carving and Finishing

1. Plan the pattern:
   Let the clay dry for about 30-45 minutes until it is ‘leather hard’—firm to the touch but still carveable. This prevents the walls from collapsing while you work.
2. Carve the diamonds:
   Using your carving tool or skewer, gently etch a continuous zigzag line around the exterior of the dish, positioning it slightly below the center line.
3. Deepen the relief:
   Go back over your zigzag line, carving out small triangles above and below the line to create a raised diamond effect. I find it helpful to vary the pressure to get that hand-carved texture.
4. Add vertical details:
   Inside the triangular spaces created by the zigzags, press gentle vertical indentations or smaller hatches to mimic the texture seen in the reference image.
5. Full dry:
   Allow the dish to dry completely in a safe spot away from direct heat. This typically takes 24-48 hours depending on humidity.

Step 4: Painting

1. Sand it smooth:
   Once fully dry and white (or light grey), use fine grit sandpaper to remove any sharp burrs or uneven spots on the rim.
2. Mix the color:
   Mix burnt sienna with a little orange and brown acrylic paint to achieve a rich, warm terracotta hue. Test the color on a scrap piece of paper first.
3. Apply base coat:
   Paint the entire dish, inside and out. Use a smaller brush to get paint into the deep crevices of your carving.
4. Highlighting (Optional):
   while the paint is still slightly wet, you can wipe the raised areas of the carving gently with a paper towel to create a weathered look.
5. Seal:
   Finish with a coat of matte varnish to protect the surface and give it a finished, ceramic-like sheen.

Place your new dish on a sunny windowsill to admire the geometric shadows it casts

This charming, imperfect bowl celebrates the natural texture of air-dry clay with a minimal aesthetic. Its slightly uneven rim and raw, matte finish make it a perfect beginner project that looks intentionally artisanal rather than just handmade.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Forming the Base

1. Prepare the Clay:
   Start with a ball of air-dry clay roughly the size of a grapefruit. Knead it in your hands for a minute to warm it up and ensure there are no air bubbles trapped inside, which can cause cracks later.
2. Start the Pinch:
   Hold the clay ball in one hand and firmly press your thumb into the center, stopping about half an inch from the bottom. This thickness is crucial for a stable base.
3. Open the Form:
   Slowly rotate the ball in your palm while pinching the clay between your thumb (inside) and fingers (outside). Work your way from the bottom up to the rim.
4. Even Out Walls:
   Continue pinching and turning until the walls are roughly equal in thickness. For this specific rustic look, aim for walls that are slightly chunky, about 1/4 inch thick.
5. Flat Bottom:
   Gently tap the bowl onto your table to flatten the bottom. This ensures it sits securely without wobbling.

Step 2: Texturing and Refining

1. Smoothing the Interior:
   Dip your finger in a tiny bit of water and run it along the inside cracks or rough spots. You want the inside relatively smooth compared to the outside.
2. Creating the Rim:
   Don’t try to make the rim perfectly level. Instead, gently press down on the rim with your thumb to slightly irregular heights, mimicking the organic look in the reference photo.
3. Adding Texture:
   Take a slightly dry sponge or a rough cloth and dab it against the exterior walls. This creates that lovely, grainy surface texture visible in the image.
4. Scoring Lines:
   Using a needle tool, a toothpick, or even a serrated knife, gently drag horizontal lines around the exterior. They shouldn’t be perfect or continuous; broken, faint lines add more character.
5. Refining the Shape:
   Step back and look at the silhouette. If the bowl has widened too much, gently cup your hands around the outside and squeeze inward to bring the shape back to a deeper curve.

Step 3: Finishing

1. Initial Drying:
   Place the bowl in a spot away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Let it sit until it is ‘leather hard’ (firm but still cool to the touch).
2. Burnishing (Optional):
   While leather hard, you can gently rub the back of a spoon over high spots to compress the clay, though leaving it matte fits the style better.
3. Full Dry:
   Allow the clay to dry completely, usually taking 24-48 hours depending on humidity. The clay will turn a chalky white when fully dry.
4. Sanding:
   Once bone dry, take your fine-grit sandpaper and lightly knock off any sharp jagged bits on the rim, but leave the main texture intact.
5. Scuffing the Lines:
   Sand horizontally along the lines you scored earlier to soften them, making them look like weathered erosions rather than fresh cuts.
6. Sealing:
   Apply a coat of matte varnish or sealer. This project relies on a non-shiny finish, so avoid gloss glazes. The sealer will protect the clay from humidity.

Now you have a beautiful, organic vessel ready to hold your trinkets or decor

This minimalist ring holder combines modern elegance with organic textures, featuring a smooth speckled cone and a raw, earthy base. The subtle gold accent makes it a chic addition to any dresser while keeping your favorite bands organize.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Shaping the Cone

1. Condition the clay:
   Start by taking a handful of air dry clay and kneading it in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and free of cracks.
2. Form the initial shape:
   Roll the clay into a smooth ball first, then begin rolling it back and forth on your work surface, applying more pressure to one side to tapered form.
3. Refine the cone:
   Stand the cone up on its flat base. Using your fingers and a bit of water, smooth out the sides while gently pulling upward to create a tall, slender peak.
4. Flatten the base:
   Press the cone down firmly onto your work surface to ensure the bottom is perfectly flat and stable. The cone should stand straight without wobbling.
5. Texture the bottom (Optional):
   To mimic the gritty texture seen at the base of the example, you can gently pat the bottom third of the cone with a piece of coarse sandpaper or a stiff brush while the clay is still wet.
6. Let it dry:
   Allow the cone to dry completely for at least 24-48 hours. Turn it occasionally to ensure air reaches the bottom.

Step 2: Sanding and Painting

1. Sand for smoothness:
   Once bone dry, take your fine-grit sandpaper and gently sand the entire cone to remove any fingerprints or bumps. Wipe away the dust with a slightly damp cloth.
2. Tape the section:
   Apply a strip of masking tape horizontally around the cone, about one-third of the way up from the bottom. Press the edges down firmly to prevent paint bleed.
3. Paint the top section:
   Paint the area above the tape with white acrylic paint. You may need two to three coats for an opaque, ceramic-like finish. Let each coat dry fully.
4. Create the speckles:
   Dilute a tiny amount of brown paint with water. Dip an old toothbrush into the mixture, then run your thumb across the bristles to flick tiny splatters onto the white painted section.
5. Remove the tape:
   Carefully peel away the masking tape to reveal the crisp line between the painted top and the raw clay bottom.
6. Add the raw texture effect:
   Mix a very heavily diluted wash of grey or beige paint and lightly dab it onto the unpainted bottom section to enhance the ‘stone’ look, dabbing off excess immediately with a paper towel.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Paint the gold band:
   Using a fine detail brush and your metallic gold paint, carefully draw a thin line right over the border where the white paint meets the raw bottom section.
2. Seal the project:
   Apply a coat of matte varnish over the entire piece, or just the painted top section if you want to keep the base feeling rough and natural.
3. Final cure:
   Let the varnish and gold paint cure completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions before placing any jewelry on the cone.

Now you have a stylish and functional piece of decor ready to display your favorite rings

This minimalist jewelry dish brings a touch of earthy warmth to your dresser or bedside table. With its smooth, matte finish and personalized stamped detail, it looks like a high-end ceramic piece but is surprisingly easy to make at home.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Prepping and Shaping

1. Condition the Clay:
   Start by taking a handful of terracotta air-dry clay. Knead it in your hands for a few minutes to warm it up and ensure it’s pliable and free of air bubbles.
2. Roll It Out:
   Place the clay on a smooth work surface or a piece of parchment paper. Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay into an even slab, aiming for a consistent thickness of about 1/4 inch.
3. Cut the Circle:
   Press your large circle cutter or the rim of a glass firmly into the clay slab to cut out your base shape. Peel away the excess clay from the edges so you are left with a perfect disc.
4. Smooth the Edges:
   Dip your finger into a little water and run it gently around the cut edge of the circle. This smooths out any sharpness or roughness left by the cutter.
5. Create the Lip:
   Gently lift the edges of the clay circle upwards with your fingers to create a shallow rim. You want a slight curve rather than a sharp wall.
6. Refine the Shape:
   To get that perfectly round, slightly raised form, you can place your clay circle inside a small, shallow bowl. Press it gently so it takes on the curve of the bowl, but don’t press too hard or it might stick.

Step 2: Stamping and Detailing

1. Create the Central Ring:
   Find the exact center of your dish. Take a smaller circle cutter (or a bottle cap) and press it very lightly into the center to create an indented ring. Ideally, don’t cut all the way through; just make an impression.
2. Stamp the Initial:
   Take your letter stamp. Position it carefully in the center of the ring you just made. Press straight down with firm, even pressure to leave a clear impression of the letter.
3. Smooth Imperfections:
   Check the area around the stamp. If the clay bunched up around the letter, use a slightly damp finger or a soft brush to smooth those tiny ridges down.
4. Sponge Finish:
   Take a slightly damp sponge and lightly wipe the entire surface of the dish. This erases fingerprints and gives the clay that professional, unified texture seen in the photo.

Step 3: Drying and Finishing

1. Initial Drying:
   Let the dish sit in the bowl or on a flat surface to dry. I prefer to leave it in the molding bowl for the first 2-3 hours so it holds its shape while the exterior hardens slightly.
2. Flip and Dry:
   Once the clay is firm enough to handle without warping, remove it from the bowl. Place it upside down on a wire rack to allow air to circulate underneath.
3. Full Cure:
   Allow the dish to dry completely for 24-48 hours. The terracotta color will lighten slightly as the moisture evaporates.
4. Sand for Smoothness:
   Once bone dry, take your fine-grit sandpaper and very gently sand the rim and any rough spots on the surface. Wipe away the dust with a dry cloth.
5. Seal the Dish:
   Apply a thin layer of matte sealant or varnish. This protects the clay from moisture and deepens the terracotta color back to that rich hue shown in the final image.
6. Final Cure:
   Let the varnish dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions before using the dish for jewelry.

Now you have a chic, custom-stamped dish ready to hold your favorite rings and trinkets

Capture the magic of a starry night in this beautifully simple heart ornament. With its smooth white finish and delicate golden accents, it strikes the perfect balance between rustic charm and festive elegance.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Base

1. Condition the clay:
   Begin by taking a handful of white air-dry clay and kneading it in your hands for a few minutes. You want it warm and pliable to prevent cracks.
2. Roll it out:
   Place the clay on your wax paper or silicone mat. Using your rolling pin, roll the clay out to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm). Avoid rolling it too thin, as you want the ornament to feel substantial.
3. Cut the heart:
   Press your large heart-shaped cookie cutter firmly into the rolled clay. Wiggle it slightly to ensure a clean cut, then lift the cutter away.
4. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a tiny bit of water and run it along the cut edges of the heart to smooth out any roughness or jagged bits left by the cutter.
5. Create the hanging hole:
   Take your drinking straw and press it into the top center of the heart, leaving enough solid clay above the hole so it won’t break later (about half an inch from the edge).

Step 2: Texturing and Drying

1. Imprint the stars:
   Take your small star stamp. Gently press it into the surface of the clay heart in a random, scattered pattern. Don’t press all the way through; you just want a clear indentation deep enough to hold paint.
2. Add variance:
   If you have stamps of different sizes, mix in a few tiny stars amongst the slightly larger ones for a more organic, twinkling effect.
3. Begin drying:
   Lay the heart flat on a piece of parchment paper or a wire rack to dry. I prefer to place a light object like a piece of cardboard on top for the first few hours to prevent curling.
4. Flip halfway:
   After about 12-24 hours, carefully flip the heart over to allow the backside to dry evenly. Total drying time will usually be between 24 and 48 hours depending on humidity.
5. Sand imperfections:
   Once fully bone-dry and hard, inspect the edges. If there are any sharp points or uneven spots, very gently buff them away with fine-grit sandpaper.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Prepare the gold paint:
   Squeeze a small dot of gold metallic acrylic paint onto a palette or scrap paper.
2. Fill the stars:
   Using your finest detail brush, carefully paint inside the star indentations. You don’t need to be perfectly neat, but try to keep the gold mostly within the recessed shape.
3. Let the paint set:
   Allow the gold paint to dry completely, which should only take about 15-20 minutes.
4. Cut the twine:
   Cut a length of natural jute twine, approximately 12 inches long.
5. Create the loop:
   Fold the twine in half. Thread the looped end through the hole in the heart from front to back.
6. Secure the hanger:
   Pull the loose ends of the twine through the loop and tighten gently to create a lark’s head knot right at the top of the ornament.
7. Tie it off:
   Knot the two loose ends of the twine together at your desired hanging length.

Hang your finished ornament on a tree or gift it to a friend to share a little handmade warmth

These minimalist, earth-toned magnets bring a touch of modern bohemian style to your fridge or locker. Using simple geometric shapes and impressed textures, you can create a cohesive set that looks professionally made yet requires only basic tools.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Preparing the Clay Body

1. Color Mixing:
   If you are starting with white clay, knead in small amounts of acrylic paint directly into the raw clay to tint it. Aim for a palette of sage green, terracotta, and soft cream. Mix thoroughly until the color is uniform and streak-free.
2. Rolling Out:
   Place a portion of clay onto parchment paper or a canvas mat. Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm). Try to keep the surface smooth and free of bubbles.
3. Smoothing the Slab:
   Before cutting, gently wipe the surface of the clay slab with a slightly damp finger or sponge to remove any rolling pin marks or tiny imperfections.

Step 2: Shaping and Texturing

1. Cutting Shapes:
   Use your cookie cutters to press firmly into the clay slab. Create a variety of circles and arches. Lift the excess clay away from the shapes rather than trying to lift the shapes themselves to prevent distortion.
2. Creating Concentric Circles:
   For the bullseye design, find two or three circular objects of different sizes (like marker caps, straw ends, or small lids). Press them gently into the center of a clay circle, starting with the largest and working inward, ensuring you don’t cut all the way through.
3. Making Sunbursts:
   To create the sunburst pattern, press a small circle in the center. Then, use the edge of a credit card or a clay knife to stamp radiating lines from the center circle out to the edge.
4. Arch Detailing:
   On your arch shapes, use a clay tool or thick needle to trace arched lines that follow the curve of the cutout. Keep your hand steady and apply even pressure for clean grooves.
5. Refining Edges:
   Use a fingertip dipped in a tiny bit of water to smooth down any rough or jagged edges left by the cookie cutters.

Step 3: Drying and Finishing

1. Initial Drying:
   Transfer your shapes carefully to a flat board or baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Place another sheet of parchment on top and a light book to weigh them down slightly; this helps prevent curling as moisture evaporates.
2. Full Cure:
   Let the pieces dry completely for 24-48 hours. Remove the weight after the first few hours to allow better finish airflow.
3. Sanding:
   Once bone dry, take fine-grit sandpaper and gently sand the edges and surface if needed. This gives that professional, matte finish seen in the photo.
4. Sealing (Optional):
   If these will be in a high-humidity area, apply a thin coat of matte varnish. I usually skip this step to keep the raw, earthy texture, but it does add durability.
5. Attaching Magnets:
   Flip the dried pieces over. Apply a dab of strong adhesive to the back of each shape and press a magnet firmly into the glue.
6. Final Set:
   Allow the glue to cure fully according to the package instructions before placing your new art on the fridge.

Now you have a stylish set of functional art pieces ready to organize your space

Bring a touch of modern desert style to your desk with this dual-tone geometric card holder. Combining faux-concrete textures with warm terracotta hues, this functional piece is surprisingly simple to sculpt from air dry clay.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Arcs

1. Prepare your workspace:
   Lay down a clean mat or parchment paper to prevent your clay from sticking. Knead a large ball of air dry clay until it is soft, pliable, and free of cracks.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay into a thick, even slab roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. It needs to be substantial enough to stand upright on its own.
3. Cut the outer arc:
   Place your large round cutter or bowl template onto the clay. Cut a clean semi-circle shape. This will form the large outer rainbow arch.
4. Cut the inner void:
   Position your smaller round cutter inside the semi-circle you just made, aligned with the bottom flat edge. Cut out this inner semi-circle to create the rainbow arch shape.
5. Create the inner piece:
   Using the clay you just removed or rolling a fresh piece, cut a solid semi-circle that fits perfectly inside the negative space of your large arch. It should be the same thickness.
6. Test the fit:
   Gently slide the inner semi-circle into the larger arch to ensure they nest together well, like a puzzle. There shouldn’t be large gaps, but they don’t need to be fused together yet.

Step 2: Texturing and Refining

1. Add concrete texture:
   To mimic the look of cast concrete, take an old toothbrush or stiff brush and gently stipple the surface of both clay pieces. I find this creates that perfect porous look without much effort.
2. Create the card slot:
   Decide where your card will sit. Usually, this is a slice across the top center of the outer arch. Use your craft knife to carefully cut a slit about 0.5 inches deep.
3. Widen the slot slightly:
   Wiggle the knife gently or slide a piece of folded cardstock in and out to ensure the opening is wide enough to hold a photo without bending it.
4. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water and run it along the sharp cut edges of your shapes to soften them slightly, removing any clay burrs.
5. Let it dry completely:
   Place your pieces flat on a drying rack. Allow them to dry for at least 24-48 hours. Flip them occasionally to ensure even drying and prevent warping.

Step 3: Painting and Assembly

1. Sand for finish:
   Once bone dry, lightly sand any rough patches or uneven bottom edges so the pieces sit completely flat on a table.
2. Mix the terracotta color:
   Mix burnt sienna with a generous amount of white and a touch of unbleached titanium. You want a soft, muted peach-terracotta shade for the outer arch.
3. Paint the outer arch:
   Apply the paint in thin layers, dabbing it into the textured pores rather than brushing smoothly, to maintain the concrete effect. Let dry between coats.
4. Mix the stone color:
   For the inner semi-circle, mix white with a tiny drop of grey and unbleached titanium to get a natural light limestone or concrete color.
5. Paint the inner piece:
   Coat the inner semi-circle with your stone mixture. Allow it to maintain a matte, chalky finish.
6. Assemble the holder:
   Once paint is fully dry, place the inner semi-circle inside the outer arch. You can glue them together with a strong craft glue if you prefer a solid unit, or leave them separate for a modular look.
7. Final touches:
   Check the card slot one last time to ensure paint hasn’t clogged it. If needed, carefully run your craft knife through it again.

Now you have a stylish, modern display for your favorite memories or business cards

Bring a touch of zen to your space with this minimalist incense holder featuring a delicate radiating pattern. The natural stone look is achieved easily with speckled clay, creating a functional piece that doubles as serene decor.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Forming the Base

1. Prepare the Clay:
   Begin by kneading a ball of speckled air dry clay until it is soft and pliable. If you are using plain white clay, knead in a small amount of fine sand or black pepper to achieve that faux-stone texture.
2. Roll it Out:
   Roll the clay out on a smooth surface to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch. Move the clay frequently so it doesn’t stick to your work surface.
3. Cut the Circle:
   Use a circle cutter or place a small bowl upside down on the clay to trace and cut out a perfect circle. This will form the main dish.
4. Shape the Rim:
   Gently curve the outer edges of the circle upward to create a shallow rim. I find that using my thumb to smooth the inside curve while supporting the outside with my fingers works best.
5. Smooth the Edges:
   Dip a sponge lightly in water and run it around the rim to soften any sharp cut marks and ensure the edge is perfectly rounded.

Step 2: Creating the Holder & Pattern

1. Form the Center Cylinder:
   Roll a small snake of clay and cut a cylinder section about 1/2 inch tall. It should be thick enough to hold an incense stick stably.
2. Attach the Cylinder:
   Score the bottom of the cylinder and the exact center of your dish with a needle tool. Add a dab of water (slip) and press the cylinder firmly into the center.
3. Refine the Connection:
   Use a small modeling tool or your finger to smooth the seam where the cylinder meets the dish so it looks like one continuous piece.
4. Make the Incense Hole:
   Take your incense stick (or a skewer of similar size) and press it vertically into the center cylinder. Wiggle it slightly to ensure the hole is deep enough but doesn’t punch through the bottom.
5. Create the Central Ring:
   Use a slightly larger circular object (like a small cap) to lightly impress a ring around the base of the cylinder, creating a dedicated zone for the center feature.
6. Start the Radiating Dots:
   Using a needle tool or the blunt end of a skewer, poke a series of small, shallow holes in a circle just outside the central ring.
7. Expand the Pattern:
   Continue adding concentric circles of dots, spacing them out further as you move toward the rim. Vary the depth slightly for texture, but don’t pierce all the way through.
8. Decorate the Rim:
   For the finishing detail, poke a final row of small holes along the vertical outer edge of the rim. This adds a lovely tailored look to the side profile.

Step 3: Finishing

1. Slow Drying:
   Place the piece in a cool, dry spot away from direct sunlight. To prevent warping, turn the dish over gently once the top is firm to the touch.
2. Sanding:
   Once fully dry (usually 24-48 hours), use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth any rough spots on the rim or the top of the cylinder.
3. Sealing:
   Apply a coat of clear matte varnish to protect the clay from ash marks. Let it cure completely before lighting your first incense.

Now you have a serene spot to burn your favorite scents and relax.

Transform a plain glass bottle into a sleek, minimalist decor piece with this straightforward air dry clay upcycle. The resulting bud vase has a organic, slightly textured finish that perfectly complements dried florals and brings a calm, earthy vibe to any windowsill.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Preparation

1. Clean the armature:
   Begin by thoroughly washing your glass bottle to remove any labels or sticky residue. Dry it completely so no moisture gets trapped between the glass and the clay later on.
2. Condition the clay:
   Take a handful of air dry clay and knead it in your hands for a minute or two until it feels warm and pliable. This conditioning helps prevent cracking as the clay dries.
3. Roll out a slab:
   Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay into a long, rectangular slab. Aim for a thickness of about 1/4 inch (approx. 5-6mm). It needs to be wide enough to wrap around the bottle and tall enough to cover it.

Step 2: Wrapping the Base

1. Initial wrap:
   Carefully lift your clay slab and wrap it around the clean glass bottle. Press it gently against the glass to help it adhere.
2. Create a seamless join:
   Where the two ends of the clay meet, cut vertically through both layers with your craft knife to remove the excess overlap. Push the two cut edges together.
3. Smooth the seam:
   Dip your finger in a little water and rub it vertically over the seam line. I like to maintain a bit of texture, but you want to blend the clay until the join is completely invisible.
4. Trim the bottom:
   Cut away any excess clay hanging off the bottom of the bottle. Smooth the clay over the bottom edge slightly so the bottle sits flat and the glass is concealed.

Step 3: Shaping the Neck

1. Gather the clay:
   Gently push the excess clay at the top of the bottle inwards towards the neck. If you have too much bulk, trim some away with your knife.
2. Form the collar:
   Mold the clay up and over the rim of the bottle. Create a slightly thickened, rounded lip at the very top, similar to the one in the photo, which gives it that sturdy, hand-thrown ceramic look.
3. Define the shoulder:
   Use your thumbs to smooth the transition from the body of the vase to the narrower neck. This curve should be soft and gradual rather than sharp.
4. Refine the surface:
   Dip a sponge in water—squeeze it out well so it’s just damp—and wipe it over the entire surface. This evens out deep fingerprints while leaving a lovely, natural stone-like texture.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

1. Slow drying:
   Place the vase in a cool, dry spot away from direct sunlight. Let it dry slowly for 24 to 48 hours to minimize warping or cracking.
2. Check thoroughly:
   The clay will turn a lighter shade of white when fully dry. Ensure the bottom feels dry to the touch before proceeding.
3. Optional sanding:
   If there are any sharp bumps you dislike, lightly buff them away with fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe away the dust with a dry brush or cloth.
4. Seal the surface:
   For durability, apply a coat of matte acrylic varnish. This preserves the raw, unglazed look while protecting the clay from humidity.
5. Style your vase:
   Since the core is glass, it is water-safe, but the clay exterior is not. Stick to dried grasses or gentle stems to keep moisture away from the clay shell.

Place your finished vase near natural light to highlight the lovely matte texture you have created

This charming little planter combines rustic textures with a modern color block design, perfect for housing a delicate air plant. The organic shape and soft pink and white palette make it a sweet addition to any sunny windowsill.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Shaping the Clay

1. Prepare the clay:
   Start by taking a handful of air dry clay and kneading it in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and free of cracks.
2. Form a ball:
   Roll the clay between your palms to create a smooth, round ball about the size of a tangerine.
3. Start the pinch:
   Hold the ball in one hand and gently press your thumb into the center of the clay, stopping about a half-inch from the bottom to ensure a sturdy base.
4. Open the form:
   Using a pinching motion with your thumb and fingers, slowly work your way around the clay ball, pressing the walls outwards and upwards to open up the pot.
5. Refine the shape:
   Continue pinching and rotating until you have an even wall thickness of about a quarter-inch, aiming for a rounded bowl shape rather than a tall cylinder.
6. Smooth the surface:
   Dip your finger in a little water and glide it over any large cracks or uneven areas on the rim and exterior, though a little texture adds to the charm.
7. Flatten the base:
   Gently tap the bottom of your pot against your work surface to create a flat, stable base so it won’t tip over.
8. Dry completely:
   Set your pot aside in a dry area for 24-48 hours until the clay turns chalky white and feels hard to the touch.

Step 2: Painting and Finishing

1. Sand for texture:
   Once fully dry, use fine-grit sandpaper to gently smooth the rim, but leave the exterior slightly rough to mimic the stone-like texture seen in the photo.
2. Apply base color:
   Paint the bottom third of the planter with a soft pink acrylic paint. Don’t worry about a perfect line at the top yet.
3. Paint the rim:
   While you have the pink paint out, carefully paint the top rim and just a bit of the interior edge.
4. Create the white band:
   Use white acrylic paint to create a wide horizontal band around the middle of the pot.
5. Refine the edges:
   I like to use a flat brush here to clean up the lines where the white meets the pink sections, creating a distinct color-block effect.
6. Add detail dots:
   Take a very fine object, like a toothpick or a dotting tool, dip it in the pink paint, and create a tiny row of dots along the bottom edge of the white stripe.
7. Seal the pot:
   Apply a coat of matte varnish or sealant over the entire exterior to protect the paint and clay from moisture.
8. Fill and plant:
   Fill the pot with gritty soil or decorative gravel and nestle your air plant or small succulent into the center.

Place your new planter in a bright spot to enjoy the fresh pop of color

These charming coasters mimic the classic look of a tea biscuit, complete with scalloped edges and tiny docking holes. They add a whimsical, cozy touch to your coffee table while keeping surfaces safe from drips.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Dough

1. Condition the clay:
   Begin by taking a handful of air dry clay and kneading it in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and free of cracks. If it feels too dry, add a tiny drop of water.
2. Roll it out:
   Place the clay on a smooth surface or a silicone mat. Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm). You want them thick enough to be sturdy but not chunky.
3. Cut the shape:
   Press your large fluted cookie cutter firmly into the clay. Give it a little wiggle to ensure a clean cut, then lift the cutter away.
4. Clean the edges:
   Peel away the excess clay from around your shape. If the scalloped edges look a bit ragged, gently smooth them with a damp finger to round them off slightly.

Step 2: Adding Texture

1. Create the docking holes:
   To mimic the classic biscuit look, use a small piping tip or a straw to press rows of dots onto the surface. Don’t press all the way through; just make shallow indentations.
2. Add surface texture:
   Take a scrap piece of sandpaper or a stiff bristle brush and very lightly tap the top surface of the clay. This gives it that baked, slightly porous texture rather than being perfectly smooth.
3. Check for flatness:
   Before setting it aside, ensure the coaster is perfectly flat. I like to flip it over for a second just to make sure the bottom is level.
4. Dry the clay:
   Place the coasters on a wire rack or a piece of parchment paper. Let them dry for 24-48 hours, flipping them occasionally to prevent warping.

Step 3: Painting and Finishing

1. Sand imperfections:
   Once fully dry, use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots on the rim or bottom, ensuring a professional feel.
2. Base coat the top:
   Mix a creamy beige color using white and a tiny dot of brown acrylic paint. Paint the entire top surface and let it dry completely.
3. Paint the baked edge:
   Mix a warm, terra-cotta brown shade. Carefully paint the scalloped sides and the bottom of the coaster. Extend this color just slightly over the top rim to look like a browned crust.
4. Add depth:
   Dip a small sponge into the brown paint and dab off almost all the excess. Very lightly sponge the top surface to highlight the texture and make it look baked.
5. Seal the coaster:
   Apply a coat of matte or satin varnish to the entire piece. This protects the clay from moisture, which is crucial for a drink coaster.
6. Second coat:
   Once the first coat is dry, add a second layer of varnish for extra durability.

Stack your new biscuit coasters on the table and wait for your guests to try and take a bite

Create the high-end look of terrazzo stone without the heavy equipment using simple air dry clay. These coasters feature a creamy base speckled with earthy tones of sage, rust, and slate for a modern, organic aesthetic.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparing the Clay Chips

1. Coloring the Clay:
   Take three small walnut-sized balls of white clay. Mix acrylic paint into each ball separately to create your chip colors: one terracotta, one sage green, and one dark grey. Knead until the color is solid and uniform.
2. Flattening the Colored Clay:
   Roll out each colored ball into a very thin sheet, roughly 1-2mm thick. Don’t worry about the shape; thin and uneven is perfect for this step.
3. Creating the Chips:
   Let these thin colored sheets sit for about 10-15 minutes until they are slightly leathery but not fully hard. Then, tear or cut them into tiny, random irregular shards. These will become your terrazzo ‘stones’.

Step 2: Forming the Base

1. Rolling the Base Slab:
   Take a large chunk of plain white clay and roll it out into a slab about 1/4 inch thick. Aim for an even thickness to ensure your coasters sit flat.
2. Adding the Chips:
   Sprinkle your colored clay chips randomly over the surface of the white slab. I like to concentrate a few clusters together for a more natural stone look.
3. Embedding the Chips:
   Gently use your rolling pin to press the colored chips into the white base. Roll over them until the surface is smooth and flush again.
4. Cutting the Shape:
   Position your round cutter or glass over the most interesting sections of your patterned slab. Press down firmly to cut out your coaster shapes.
5. Smoothing Edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water and run it along the cut edges to smooth out any roughness or loose bits of clay.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Drying Process:
   Place the coasters on a flat surface lined with parchment paper. Let them dry for 24-48 hours, flipping them over occasionally to prevent warping.
2. Sanding for Exposure:
   Once fully dry, the surface might look a bit hazy. Use fine-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the top. This removes the thin film of white clay and reveals the crisp colors of the chips underneath.
3. Dust Removal:
   Wipe the coasters thoroughly with a slightly damp cloth or a dry tack cloth to remove all sanding dust.
4. Sealing – Coat One:
   Apply a thin layer of varnish or sealant to protect the clay from moisture. This will also make the terrazzo colors pop.
5. Sealing – Coat Two:
   Allow the first coat to dry according to the bottle instructions, then apply a second layer for durability, especially since these will hold drinks.

Enjoy your stylish, handmade coasters that bring a touch of modern art to your coffee table

This charming, earthy bowl brings a touch of warmth to any dresser with its rich terracotta tone and delicate beaded edge. Perfect for holding rings or small studs, it achieves a high-end ceramic look using beginner-friendly air dry clay.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Forming the Base

1. Condition the Clay:
   Start by taking a handful of terracotta air dry clay and kneading it in your hands to warm it up. This conditioning makes the clay much less prone to cracking as it dries.
2. Roll out a Slab:
   Using your rolling pin, roll the clay out into an even slab on a smooth surface. Aim for a thickness of about 1/4 inch to ensure the bowl is sturdy but not clunky.
3. Cut the Circle:
   Press your circular cutter or place a small bowl upside down onto the clay slab to trace and cut out a perfect circle. Remove the excess clay around the edges.
4. Smooth the Edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water and run it along the cut edge of your clay circle. This softens any sharp angles left by the cutter.
5. Shape the Curve:
   Gently lift the clay circle and place it into a slightly larger bowl lined with plastic wrap, or drape it over a foam ball. Press gently to create a shallow, concave curve.
6. Refine the Surface:
   Take a slightly damp sponge and lightly wipe the inside surface of your bowl to remove any fingerprints or imperfections.

Step 2: Adding the Details

1. Roll Tiny Spheres:
   Pinch off very small amounts of your remaining clay. Roll them between your thumb and forefinger to create tiny, pea-sized spheres. You will need quite a few to go around the entire rim.
2. Score the Rim:
   Using a needle tool or toothpick, gently scratch rough textural marks (scoring) all along the top edge of your bowl where the beads will sit.
3. Attach the First Bead:
   Dab a tiny drop of water onto a scored section. Press one clay sphere gently onto the wet rim so it adheres, being careful not to flatten the bead completely.
4. Complete the Circle:
   Continue attaching beads one by one, placing them snugly against each other. I find it helpful to adjust their spacing slightly as I near the end to ensure the last bead fits perfectly without a gap.
5. Secure the Seams:
   Once all beads are placed, use a small tool or your finger to gently press the bottom of each bead into the rim simply to ensure a strong bond.
6. Final Smooth:
   Use a damp brush or finger to smooth out any connection points between the beads and the rim on the exterior side.

Step 3: Drying and Finishing

1. Let it Dry Slowly:
   Place the bowl in a cool, dry area away from direct sunlight. Let it air dry for 24 to 48 hours. Drying it too fast can cause warping.
2. Check Dryness:
   The clay will lighten in color and feel hard and room temperature (not cold) to the touch when it is fully cured.
3. Sand Imperfections:
   Once fully dry, take a piece of find-grit sandpaper and very gently buff away any rough spots on the bottom or interior of the bowl.
4. Seal the piece:
   To enhance the rich color and protect the clay, apply a thin coat of matte varnish. This keeps the look natural while adding durability.

Now you have a beautifully earthy dish ready to organize your favorite jewelry pieces

Elevate your table setting with these rustic, nature-inspired napkin rings that mimic the look of hand-carved stone. Featuring a simple rolled shape and delicate embossed leaf patterns, they bring a touch of organic elegance to any linen napkin.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparing the Base

1. Condition the clay:
   Cut off a chunk of air dry clay and knead it in your hands for a minute until it feels soft, warm, and pliable. This prevents cracks later on.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Place the clay on parchment paper or a silicone mat. Use your rolling pin to flatten it into an even slab, aiming for a thickness of about 1/4 inch (5-6mm).
3. Measure and cut strips:
   Using a ruler as a guide, cut rectangular strips from the slab. A size of approximately 6 inches long by 1.5 inches wide works well for standard dinner napkins.
4. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water and run it gently along the cut edges of each strip to soften any sharpness or ragged bits.

Step 2: Adding Texture and Forming

1. Create the texture:
   Before bending the clay, lay the strip flat. Press your leaf stamps gently into the surface to create a repeating pattern. If you don’t have stamps, use a sculpting tool or toothpick to hand-draw simple veins and leaf shapes.
2. Prepare the form:
   Cut a cardboard tube (like a paper towel roll) into smaller sections. Wrap each section in a small piece of parchment paper so the clay won’t stick to the cardboard.
3. Shape the ring:
   Carefully lift a clay strip and wrap it around the parchment-covered tube. Bring the two ends together.
4. Join the seam:
   Where the ends meet, score both surfaces (make little scratch marks) and add a drop of water. Press them together firmly to create a bond.
5. Blend the join:
   Use a modeling tool or your wet finger to smooth the seam on the inside and outside until the line disappears. I find this strengthens the ring significantly.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Initial drying:
   Leave the rings on the cardboard tubes while they start to dry. This ensures they maintain a perfect circle shape.
2. Remove the form:
   After about 2-3 hours, when the clay is leather-hard (firm but not fully dry), carefully slide the rings off the tubes. This allows air to reach the inside.
3. Full cure:
   Let the rings dry completely for 24-48 hours. Turn them over occasionally so they dry evenly on all sides.
4. Sand imperfections:
   Once fully hard, take fine-grit sandpaper and very gently sand the rims or the seam area to remove any roughness.
5. Seal the clay:
   Apply a thin coat of clear matte acrylic sealer. This protects the porous clay from stains if food spills on it, while keeping that beautiful natural look.

Now you have a set of bespoke napkin rings ready to impress guests at your next dinner party

Keep your workspace tidy with this stylish, multi-compartment tray featuring modern color-blocking and a sleek, concrete-like finish. This beginner-friendly air dry clay project perfectly blends function with contemporary aesthetic charm.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Base

1. Prepare your template:
   Before touching the clay, grab a piece of cardboard and sketch out a square measuring roughly 6×6 inches. This will serve as your guide for cutting the base to ensure straight edges.
2. Roll out the clay:
   Take a large chunk of clay and roll it out onto a flat surface. You want an even slab that is about 1/4 inch thick. Aim for smooth, consistent thickness to prevent cracking later.
3. Cut the square base:
   Place your cardboard template over the rolled clay. Using your craft knife and a ruler for stability, trace around the template to cut out a clean square base.
4. Create the walls:
   Gather the excess clay and roll it into long snakes or coils. Flatten these slightly with your rolling pin so they become strips about 3/4 inch tall. You will need four strips for the outer perimeter and shorter strips for the internal dividers.
5. Attach the outer walls:
   Score the edges of your square base (make small scratch marks) and add a dab of water. Place your wall strips along the edge. Smooth the seam where the wall meets the base using your finger or a clay tool until the join is invisible.

Step 2: Adding Dividers & Refining

1. Plan the compartments:
   Decide on your layout. For the look in the photo, you want one long rectangle taking up the bottom half, and the top half split into two smaller sections.
2. Insert the dividers:
   Cut your remaining clay strips to fit inside the box. Place a long strip horizontally across the middle, and a shorter strip vertically in the top section. Score and slip (wet) the ends where they touch the outer walls to secure them.
3. Smooth the corners:
   Dip your finger in water and gently run it along all the inner corners and edges. You want the internal compartments to look rounded and seamless, rather than sharp and boxy.
4. Round the outer edges:
   Gently tap and smooth the outside corners of the tray to give them a soft, rounded aesthetic rather than a sharp 90-degree angle.
5. Dry thoroughly:
   Place your tray in a safe, dry spot away from direct sunlight. Let it dry for at least 24-48 hours. I find flipping it over gently halfway through helps the bottom dry evenly.

Step 3: Sanding & Painting

1. Sand for smoothness:
   Once fully dry and hard, take your fine-grit sandpaper and lightly sand the entire piece. Focus on the top rim and any rough patches on the walls.
2. Base coat interior:
   Paint the inside of the small top-left compartment and the bottom portion of the tray with a muted sage green paint.
3. Add terracotta accents:
   Using the terracotta paint, fill in the top-right compartment. Then, paint a bold angled stripe inside the bottom long compartment to start the patterned look.
4. Paint the stripes:
   Mix a soft cream color. Paint a stripe next to the terracotta one in the bottom tray. You want the stripes to look hand-painted and organic, so don’t worry about using painter’s tape unless you want razor-sharp lines.
5. Seal the piece:
   Once the paint is completely dry, apply a coat of matte varnish or Mod Podge. This protects the clay from scratches and gives it a finished, professional look.

Now you have a custom organizer that makes organizing your desk feel like an art form

Create a cozy, textured vibe with this minimalist candle holder featuring delicate stamped scallop details. The raw, off-white finish of the air dry clay gives it a perfectly imperfect, organic look that complements any modern decor.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Preparation and Base

1. Condition the clay:
   Begin by kneading a handful of air dry clay until it feels pliable and warm in your hands. This prevents cracking later on.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay into an even slab, aiming for a thickness of about 1/4 inch (5-6mm).
3. Cut the base:
   Press your circle cutter into the clay slab to create the round bottom of your candle holder.
4. Measure the circumference:
   To determine the length of the wall, either calculate the circumference or wrap a piece of string around your base circle and measure that length against a ruler.

Step 2: Building the Walls

1. Cut the clay strip:
   Cut a long rectangular strip from your remaining slab. It should be the length you just measured (plus a little extra for overlap) and about 2 inches high.
2. Check the fit:
   Test the strip by wrapping it loosely around the base to ensure it reaches all the way around.
3. Score the edges:
   Using your craft tool or a fork, scratch up the outer edge of the circular base and the bottom inside edge of your rectangular strip. This rough texture helps the clay grip.
4. Apply slip:
   I like to dab a tiny bit of water onto the scored areas to create a sticky ‘slip’ that acts as glue.
5. Attach the wall:
   Wrap the strip around the base, pressing securely. Join the two ends of the strip by cutting them at an angle for a seamless overlap, then smooth the seam with your finger.
6. Smooth the interior:
   Gently run a wet finger along the inside bottom seam to ensure the wall is fully fused to the base.

Step 3: Adding Texture and Finish

1. Create the top texture:
   Using a U-shaped modeling tool, the side of a marker cap, or a wavy cutter, press a scalloped pattern directly into the top rim of the clay wall.
2. Add side details:
   Repeat this pressing motion around the exterior wall to create the two distinct horizontal bands of wavy texture seen in the photo—one near the top and one near the bottom.
3. Refine the shape:
   If the cylinder warped during texturing, gently nudge it back into a perfect circle.
4. Check candle fit:
   Gently place your tea light inside to confirm it fits comfortably without touching the sides. Remove it immediately.
5. Dry properly:
   Set your project in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Rotate it occasionally so it dries evenly, which usually takes 24-48 hours.
6. Sand the imperfections:
   Once fully bone dry, use fine-grit sandpaper to gently smooth out any rough fingerprints or sharp edges on the rim.
7. Optional sealing:
   For a matte finish like the image, leave it raw or apply a clear matte acrylic varnish to protect it from dust.

Light a candle and enjoy the warm glow reflecting off the textured clay walls

Bring a touch of warm, earthy charm to your walls with this vertical hanging that mimics the look of fired terracotta. Using simple geometric shapes and wooden accents, this beginner-friendly project creates a stunning mobile that feels both modern and organic.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Clay Elements

1. Prepare your workspace:
   Lay down parchment paper or a craft mat to prevent the clay from sticking. Knead a large ball of terracotta air dry clay until it is soft, pliable, and free of cracks.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Roll the clay out to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch. Try to keep the thickness consistent so all pieces dry at the same rate and hang evenly.
3. Cut the main circles:
   Use your large circle cookie cutter to punch out three full circles. These will become your semicircles. If you don’t have a cutter, trace a bowl rim and cut with a knife.
4. Create the semicircles:
   Use a ruler to find the center of your circles and cut them perfectly in half with your knife. You will need three total semicircles for the top sections, so you’ll have extra halves.
5. Form the arches:
   Take the remaining clay or re-roll your scraps. Cut two more semicircles. Use the small round cutter to remove a notch from the bottom center of each flat side, creating two rainbow-shaped arches.

Step 2: Texturing and Refining

1. Add the sunburst texture:
   Select one large semicircle to be the middle piece. Using your needle tool or knife, gently press radiating lines into the clay surface, starting from the center bottom and extending toward the curved edge.
2. Detail the rainbow arch:
   Choose another semicircle for the third position. Use a tool to carve a smaller arch inside the shape and add small dots or stippling along the outer rim for visual interest.
3. Create hanging holes:
   This is crucial: Use a straw or needle tool to poke holes in every piece. For the top three semicircles, punch a hole in the center of the curved top and the flat bottom. For the bottom two arches, punch holes through the vary top and bottom center.
4. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water and run it along all the cut edges to smooth out any roughness or sharp corners. This gives it a professional, finished look.
5. Let it dry completely:
   Place all pieces on a flat surface away from direct heat. Let them dry for 24-48 hours. I recommend flipping them over halfway through so both sides dry evenly.
6. Sand for perfection:
   Once bone dry, use fine-grit sandpaper to gently buff away any remaining uneven spots on the edges.

Step 3: Assembly

1. Prepare the hanger:
   Cut a length of macrame cord about 3 feet long. Tie one end securely around the left side of your wooden dowel, leaving a loop for hanging, and tie the other end to the right side.
2. Start the main strand:
   Cut a new piece of cord, roughly 2-3 feet long. Tie a secure knot around the center of the wooden dowel. Thread a decorative wooden bead onto the cord and push it up to the dowel.
3. Attach the first tile:
   Thread the cord through the top hole of your first plain semicircle. Tie a knot underneath the hole if needed to keep it in place, or simply let it rest if the hole is snug.
4. Add beads and continue:
   Thread a wooden bead onto the cord after the first tile. Then, thread the cord through the top hole of the textured sunburst semicircle.
5. Connect the remaining pieces:
   Repeat the pattern: add a bead, then thread the rainbow-textured semicircle. Add another bead, then the first smaller arch. Add a final bead, then the last arch.
6. Secure the bottom:
   Once all five clay pieces and spacer beads are threaded, tie a large, sturdy knot at the very bottom of the cord. Cut off any excess twine.
7. Adjust and align:
   Hang the piece up and gently rotate the beads or adjust the knots to ensure all clay tiles are facing forward and hanging straight.

Hang your new geometric art piece near a window where the natural light can highlight the textures you carved.

This charming, free-standing rainbow sculpture adds a touch of modern bohemian style to any shelf. The muted, earthy color palette and textured finish give it a sophisticated look that is surprisingly easy to achieve with simple air-dry clay.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Shaping the Arches

1. Prepare the workspace:
   Lay down your parchment paper or silicone mat to prevent sticking. Grab a fist-sized ball of clay and knead it well until it’s soft and pliable.
2. Roll the first coil:
   Roll a portion of the clay into a long snake or coil. Aim for a thickness of about 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
3. Flatten the coil slightly:
   Instead of leaving it round, gently press down on the coil with your hand or a rolling pin just a tiny bit to create slightly flattened sides. This helps them stack neatly.
4. Form the smallest arch:
   Create the innermost arch first. Bend the clay coil into a U-shape that is roughly 2.5 inches tall. Cut the ends flat at the bottom using your craft knife.
5. Create the second arch:
   Roll another coil of the same thickness. Drape it over the first arch to measure the length needed, then cut the excess clay at the bottom so it aligns perfectly with the first piece.
6. Continue building layers:
   Repeat this process for the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth arches. Ensure each coil is snug against the previous one.
7. Adhere the layers:
   Separate the arches gently. Score the touching sides of each arch with your knife (make little scratch marks) and dab a little water on the scored areas as ‘glue’.
8. Press and refine:
   Press the arches back together firmly. Smooth out the front and back surfaces with your fingers or a flat tool to ensure they are even.
9. Final shaping:
   Stand the rainbow up on its legs. Use your ruler to gently tap the sides and top to keep the shape uniform and ensure it stands stable without wobbling.
10. Drying time:
    Let the sculpture dry completely. This usually takes 24-48 hours depending on humidity. Flip it over halfway through to ensure the bottom dries too.

Step 2: Painting and Finishing

1. Sand imperfections:
   Once fully dry and hard, use fine-grit sandpaper to gently smooth out any rough edges or bumps on the surface.
2. Mix your palette:
   Prepare your colors. Mix a ‘terracotta’ shade using orange and brown, a ‘sage’ using green and white with a touch of grey, and keep a pure white handy.
3. Paint the outer arch:
   Start with the outermost arch. Paint it a soft, dusty pink or light terracotta. Use a flat brush for clean lines.
4. Paint the second layer:
   Leave the second arch white (or paint it white if your clay isn’t bright enough). This creates negative space that makes the colors pop.
5. Add the middle tone:
   Paint the third arch in a deeper terracotta or rust color. Take your time near the edges where the colors meet.
6. Apply the green:
   Paint the fourth, thinner arch in your sage green mixture. I find a slightly smaller brush helps here to avoid smudging onto the rust layer.
7. Finish the inner arches:
   Paint the fifth arch a soft mustard yellow or beige, and paint the final innermost arch white.
8. Touch ups:
   Check the back and sides. You can paint the sides to match the front stripes for a continuous look, or paint the entire back a solid color.
9. Final coat (optional):
   If you want to protect the paint, apply a matte varnish layer, though leaving it raw maintains that nice earthy texture seen in the photo.

Place your new creation near a window where the natural light can highlight those beautiful earthy tones

This adorable bunny charm is the perfect pocket-sized companion, featuring soft pastel accents and a smooth, matte finish. It’s an ideal beginner project for learning basic shapes and joinery in air dry clay.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Sculpting the Head & Body

1. Forming the head:
   Start by rolling a ball of white clay about the size of a large grape. Roll it between your palms until it’s completely smooth and free of cracks. Gently press slightly on the sides to give it a soft, rounded oval shape rather than a perfect sphere.
2. Creating the body foundation:
   Take a slightly smaller amount of white clay and roll another ball. Gently flatten the bottom so the bunny will stand up straight on its own.
3. Joining the pieces:
   Score the top of the body and the bottom of the head with a needle tool to create a rough texture. Add a tiny dab of water to the scored areas and press the head firmly onto the body. Use your finger or a tool to smooth the seam slightly if needed, though the clothes will cover most of this area later.
4. Adding the ears:
   Roll two small, elongated teardrop shapes for the ears. Flatten them slightly with your thumb. Gently press the rounded bottom of each ear onto the top of the head, blending the clay downwards into the skull for a secure bond.

Step 2: Adding Details & Hardware

1. Creating the outfit:
   To make the red jacket, roll a thin snake of clay and flatten it into a long strip. Wrap this strip around the base of the neck where the head meets the body, smoothing it down to look like a shirt. Add two tiny teardrop shapes on the sides for arms.
2. The belly patch:
   Roll a very small ball of clay and flatten it into a thin oval. Press this onto the front of the body, just below the red shirt line, to create a cute tummy patch.
3. Inserting the hardware:
   While the clay is still wet, carefully screw the eye pin into the very top of the head centered between the ears. I prefer to dip the screw end in a tiny bit of glue before inserting it for extra security.
4. Drying time:
   Set your bunny in a safe, dry place away from direct sunlight. Allow it to dry completely for at least 24 to 48 hours, turning it occasionally so the bottom dries too.

Step 3: Painting & Assembly

1. Base colors:
   Once fully dry, you can lightly sand any rough spots. Paint the jacket area with a bright coral or red acrylic paint. Ensure you keep the belly patch and the head clean.
2. Inner ears and cheeks:
   Mix a soft pink paint (or use the same red diluted with white). Paint the inner ovals of the bunny’s ears. Using a dry brush technique or a cotton swab, dab soft pink circles onto the cheeks for a blushing look.
3. The face details:
   Using a dotting tool dipped in black paint, place two solid dots for the eyes. Use a very fine brush or a black fine-liner pen to draw a tiny ‘x’ or inverted ‘y’ shape for the nose and mouth.
4. Sealing the charm:
   If you plan to use this as a keychain, durability is key. Coat the entire figure in a layer of matte or gloss varnish to protect the paint from chipping.
5. Final assembly:
   Once the varnish is cured, use pliers to open your jump ring. Thread it through the eye pin on the bunny’s head and attach the gold keyring loop. Close the jump ring securely.

Now you have a sweet little companion to keep your keys company wherever you go