17+ Creative Easy Clay Ideas for Adults You Can Make Today

Elegance meets functionality in this minimalist trinket dish, perfect for holding your favorite delicate jewelry. The natural speckled finish gives it an organic, high-end look without needing a pottery wheel.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Base

1. Prepare your clay:
   Start by taking a handful of clay and kneading it briefly in your hands to warm it up and remove any large air bubbles. Form it into a rough ball shape.
2. Set up guides:
   Place your wooden guide strips on either side of the clay ball on your work surface. These will ensure your slab is perfectly even.
3. Roll the slab:
   Using your rolling pin, roll the clay out until the pin rests on the wooden guides. You want a smooth, uniform thickness of about 1/4 inch.
4. Cut the shape:
   Lay your oval paper template gently onto the clay slab. Trace around the edge using a needle tool or craft knife held straight up and down for a clean cut.
5. Initial smoothing:
   Remove the excess clay from around the oval. Dipping your finger in a little water, run it gently along the sharp cut edge to soften it slightly.

Step 2: Forming the Dish

1. Lift the edges:
   Place the clay oval in the palm of your hand. Gently curl up the edges all the way around using your thumb and forefinger to create a shallow wall.
2. Refine the curve:
   Work your way around the perimeter multiple times, pinching gently and smoothing the clay upward to eliminate any sharp angles where the wall meets the base.
3. Smooth the interior:
   Dampen your small sponge (squeeze it out well so it’s not dripping) and wipe the inside of the dish. This erases fingerprints and creates that seamless, fluid look.
4. Check symmetry:
   Set the dish down on a flat surface and inspect it from eye level. Nudge any uneven spots so the rim looks relatively level, though a little organic wobble adds charm.
5. Refine the rim:
   Use the sponge or a wet finger to round over the top lip of the dish. It should look soft and polished, not sharp or jagged.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Let it dry:
   Place the dish on a clean board or piece of paper to dry. If using air-dry clay, turn it over after 24 hours to let the bottom breathe.
2. Safety sand:
   Once fully dry and hard, take your fine-grit sandpaper and gently buff away any remaining rough spots on the rim or the underside.
3. Clean dust:
   Wipe the entire piece down with a barely damp cloth or dry brush to remove all sanding dust before sealing.
4. Apply the finish:
   Brush on a coat of clear gloss varnish or glaze. If you used plain clay without speckles, you can flick a toothbrush with thinned brown paint over it first to mimic the speckled clay body.
5. Final cure:
   Allow the varnish to cure completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions before placing any metallic jewelry inside to prevent sticking.

Now you have a serene spot to keep your daily treasures organized and accessible

This charming, handmade bowl combines a classic silhouette with a uniquely rustic aesthetic, perfect for holding coins or jewelry by the bedside. The design features a cool, speckled celadon green interior glaze contrasted against an exposed, warm stoneware rim for a natural, grounded look.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Forming the Pinch Pot

1. Prepare the Clay Ball:
   Start by cutting a piece of clay about the size of a tennis ball. Roll it firmly between your palms until it is a perfect sphere, ensuring there are no hidden air pockets or seams.
2. Open the Center:
   Hold the clay ball in your non-dominant hand. With your dominant thumb, push gently but firmly into the center of the ball, stopping about half an inch before you reach the bottom.
3. Pinch the Walls:
   Starting at the bottom and moving upward, pinch the clay between your thumb (inside) and fingers (outside). Rotate the ball slightly with each pinch to ensure even thickness all the way around.
4. Thin and Shape:
   Continue pinching in a spiral motion upward until the walls are roughly 1/4 inch thick. Aim for a gentle curve rather than straight vertical walls to match the bowl in the photo.
5. Check the Bottom:
   If the bottom feels too thick, press it gently from the inside to spread the clay outward. If it’s too round to sit stable, tap the bowl gently on your table to flatten the base slightly.

Step 2: Refining and Drying

1. Smooth the Rim:
   I like to use a slightly damp sponge to run along the rim, compressing the clay particles. This prevents cracking later and creates that smooth, distinct lip we will leave unglazed.
2. Refine the Interior:
   Use a flexible rubber kidney or metal rib tool on the inside curve. Pressing gently, scrape away finger marks to create a smooth, perfect bowl interior.
3. Smooth the Exterior:
   Repeat the smoothing process on the outside, removing major fingerprints but leaving a little organic texture if desired. The goal is a clean, modern shape.
4. Slow Dry:
   Place your bowl loosely under plastic for a day to equalize moisture, then uncover it to let it reach bone-dry status. The clay will turn a lighter, chalky color.
5. Bisque Fire:
   Fire the bone-dry piece in a kiln to bisque temperature (usually cone 04). This hardens the clay and prepares it for glazing.

Step 3: Glazing and Finishing

1. Clean the Bisque:
   Wipe the fired bowl with a damp sponge to remove any kiln dust, which can prevent glaze from sticking properly.
2. Apply Wax Resist:
   Using a brush you don’t care about, carefully paint liquid wax resist along the top rim of the bowl and the very bottom foot. This prevents glaze from adhering to these areas.
3. Pour the Interior:
   Pour your celadon green glaze into the bowl, swirl it quickly to coat the entire inside, and pour the excess back into your glaze bucket immediately.
4. Dip the Exterior:
   Holding the bowl by the waxed rim—or using glaze tongs—dip the exterior into the glaze bucket. Hold it just for a few seconds.
5. Clean the Rim:
   Even with wax resist, small beads of glaze might cling to the rim. Take a damp sponge and firmly wipe the rim to ensure the raw clay band is perfectly clean and sharp.
6. Glaze Fire:
   Load the piece into the kiln for the final glaze firing (often cone 5 or 6 for stoneware). Ensure the unglazed bottom is wiped clean so it doesn’t fuse to the kiln shelf.

Once cooled, your durable stoneware catchall is ready to simplify your nightstand clutter

This elegant cone ring holder features a natural, matte stone finish that looks effortlessly chic on any vanity. It’s a beautifully simple project that proves sophisticated organization doesn’t have to be complicated to create.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Cone

1. Prepare your template:
   Cut a circle out of cardstock, about 4-5 inches in diameter. Cut a wedge out of the circle (think of a pizza slice shape, removing about 1/3 of the circle). This will be your guide for the clay.
2. Condition the clay:
   Warm up your clay by kneading it in your hands until it is pliable and smooth. This prevents cracks from forming later during the shaping process.
3. Roll it out:
   Roll your clay into a flat slab, aiming for a consistent thickness of about 1/4 inch. If you want a weightier base, you can go slightly thicker.
4. Cut the shape:
   Place your cardstock template onto the clay slab. Use your craft knife to carefully trace around the template, cutting out the fan shape.
5. Form the cone:
   Gently lift the clay shape and curl the straight edges toward each other until they meet. The clay should naturally form a cone shape.

Step 2: Refining and Smoothing

1. Seal the seam:
   Where the two edges meet, press them together. Use your thumb or a modeling tool to smudge the clay across the seam line, blending the two sides until the join is invisible.
2. Smooth the exterior:
   Dip your finger in a little bit of water and rub it over the entire surface of the cone to smooth out fingerprints and minor imperfections.
3. Level the base:
   Stand the cone upright on your work surface. If it wobbles, gently press it down or slice off any uneven bits at the bottom with your blade to ensure it stands perfectly straight.
4. Sharpen the tip:
   If the point of the cone became blunt during handling, gently pinch and roll the very top between your fingers to re-establish a nice, sharp point.
5. Final smooth:
   Give the piece one last wipe with a slightly damp sponge. This helps achieve that ultra-smooth, almost stone-like texture seen in the photo.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Let it dry:
   Allow the clay to dry completely. For air-dry clay, I usually leave it for 24-48 hours. If using polymer clay, bake according to the package instructions.
2. Initial sanding:
   Once dry (and cool, if baked), use medium-grit sandpaper to remove any larger bumps or uneven areas, especially around the base.
3. Fine sanding:
   Switch to fine-grit sandpaper to buff the entire surface. This step is crucial for getting that professional, velvety finish.
4. Dust off:
   Wipe the cone with a clean, dry cloth or a tack cloth to remove all sanding dust before applying any finish.
5. Seal the piece:
   Apply a thin coat of matte sealant. This protects the clay from oils on your jewelry while maintaining the natural, unglazed earthenware look.

Place your favorite rings on your new holder to enjoy a touch of modern elegance every day

Bring a touch of warm, earthy charm to your coffee table with these terracotta-style coasters. Featuring delicate white geometric patterns and a classic raised rim, they look like high-end pottery but are deceptively simple to make at home.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Shaping the Base

1. Condition the clay:
   Start by taking a generous handful of your terracotta air-dry clay. Knead it in your hands for a minute or two to warm it up and make it pliable, smoothing out any cracks.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Place the clay on a clean, flat surface. Use your rolling pin to roll it out into an even slab, aiming for a thickness of about 1/4 inch. Try to keep the thickness consistent so the coaster sits flat.
3. Cut the circle:
   Press your circle cutter firmly into the clay. If you don’t have a cutter large enough, place a round bowl upside down on the clay and trace around it with a knife. Remove the excess clay.
4. Create the rim:
   To make the raised edge, gently pinch the outer perimeter of your clay circle upwards. I usually use my thumb on the inside and my index finger on the outside, rotating the coaster as I go to create a small, uniform lip.
5. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a tiny bit of water and run it along the rim and the flat surface to smooth out any fingerprints or rough textures. The surface should be as sleek as possible before drying.
6. Add texture to the rim:
   Take your small flat sculpting tool or the back of a knife. Press small, vertical indentations all around the outer side of the raised rim. These should be evenly spaced to create a ribbed texture.

Step 2: Drying and Refining

1. Let it air dry:
   Place your coaster on a wire rack or a piece of parchment paper. Let it dry completely according to the package instructions. This usually takes 24-48 hours, and I like to flip it over halfway through to ensure the bottom dries evenly.
2. Sand for smoothness:
   Once fully dry and hard, take a piece of fine-grit sandpaper and very gently sand the rim and flat surface. Focus on any sharp edges or uneven spots to give it a professional finish.
3. Wipe clean:
   Use a slightly damp cloth or a dry brush to remove all the clay dust. It’s crucial that the surface is dust-free before you start painting.

Step 3: Painting the Design

1. Paint the inner circle:
   Dip your fine detail brush into white acrylic paint. Paint a thin circle line about half an inch inward from the rim. You can lightly trace this with a pencil first if you’re worried about keeping it round.
2. Create triangles:
   Paint a zigzag line between your painted circle and the outer rim. The points of the zigzag should touch the rim on the outside and your painted circle on the inside, creating a border of triangles.
3. Add dot details:
   Inside each triangle that points inward, place a single small dot of white paint near the center. Keep the dots small and consistent in size.
4. Highlight the rim texture:
   Using a very small amount of white paint on a wider brush (dry brushing technique), lightly brush over the textured notches on the outer rim. This highlights the indentations you made earlier without filling them in.
5. Seal the coaster:
   Once the paint is completely dry, apply a coat of matte acrylic sealer. This will protect the clay from moisture, which is essential for a functional coaster.

Enjoy your beautiful, handcrafted coasters with your next cozy cup of tea

Embrace the beauty of imperfection with this lovely speckled clay bowl. Featuring a natural, earthy two-tone design and a delicate wavy gold rim, it’s the perfect minimalist catch-all for your favorite rings and bracelets.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Shaping the Clay

1. Prepare the speckled clay:
   Start with white air-dry clay. If you don’t have pre-speckled clay, knead in a pinch of coarse black pepper or clean sand to create that organic texture.
2. Roll it out:
   Roll your clay into a flattened slab about 1/4 inch thick. Aim for an even thickness throughout so it dries uniformly.
3. Prepare your mold:
   Take a small kitchen bowl that has the shape you want. Line the inside with cling film to prevent sticking.
4. Form the bowl:
   Gently press your clay slab into the lined bowl. Smooth it against the sides, working from the center outward to push out any trapped air bubbles.
5. Cut the rim:
   Using a craft knife, trim the excess clay around the top edge of the bowl. Don’t worry about being perfectly straight; a slight organic wave adds character.
6. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger or a small sponge in water and run it along the cut rim to soften any sharp corners.
7. Initial drying:
   Let the clay sit in the mold for about 24 hours until it holds its shape on its own.

Step 2: Finishing the Surface

1. Remove and dry:
   Carefully lift the clay out of the mold using the cling film. Remove the film and let the bowl dry completely for another 24-48 hours. I find letting it dry upside down helps the bottom set properly.
2. Sand it smooth:
   Once fully dry and hard, use fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out any bumps on the rim or surface. Wipe away dust with a slightly damp cloth.
3. Paint the base:
   Turn the bowl upside down. Paint the bottom exterior third of the bowl with terracotta-colored acrylic paint.
4. Create the wave detail:
   Where the terracotta paint meets the unpainted clay, use your brush to create a scalloped, wavy edge rather than a straight line.
5. Add the inner gold rim:
   Using a gold paint pen or a fine brush, draw a wavy, oscillating line about half an inch below the rim on the inside surface.
6. Paint the top edge:
   Run the gold pen along the very top physical rim of the bowl to highlight the shape.

Step 3: Sealing

1. Seal the piece:
   Apply a coat of clear matte varnish over the entire bowl to protect the paint and clay from moisture.
2. Let it cure:
   Allow the varnish to dry fully according to the bottle instructions before placing any jewelry inside.

Now you have a chic, handmade vessel ready to display your daily treasures

Capture the warmth of earthen materials with this minimalist bud vase, perfect for displaying dried grasses or single stems. Its cylindrical form creates a modern silhouette, while the speckled terracotta finish adds a charming, rustic touch.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Forming the Base and Body

1. Roll the slab:
   Begin by rolling out a medium-sized ball of speckled clay into a consistent slab. Aim for a thickness of about 1/4 inch to ensure stability without making the vase too heavy.
2. Cut the rectangle:
   Using a ruler and your cutting tool, measure and cut a rectangle. A piece approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall works well for this stout shape, but you can adjust based on your desired height.
3. Cut the base circle:
   Find a circular object or use a compass to trace a circle onto the remaining slab for the base. This circle needs to match the diameter created when you roll your rectangle into a cylinder.
4. Bevel the edges:
   Cut the short vertical edges of your rectangle at a 45-degree angle. This beveling technique helps create a seamless join when the clay is overlapped.
5. Score and slip:
   Score the beveled edges and the perimeter of your circular base using a serrated tool. Apply a generous amount of slip to these rough areas.
6. Assemble the cylinder:
   Carefully stand the rectangle up and curve it around to join the beveled edges. Press them firmly together, supporting the wall from the inside with one hand.
7. Attach the base:
   Place the cylinder onto the scored base circle. Use a modeling tool to blend the clay from the cylinder down onto the base, ensuring a tight, water-tight seal.

Step 2: Shaping the Neck

1. Collar the top:
   To create the bottle shape, gently squeeze the upper inch and a half of the cylinder inward. I like to rotate the vase slowly on a banding wheel while doing this to keep the constriction even.
2. Smooth the shoulder:
   As you narrow the neck, excess clay will thicken the walls. Use your fingers to pull this excess clay upward, smoothing the transition from the wide body to the narrow neck to create a soft, sloping shoulder.
3. Refine the rim:
   Once the neck is sufficiently narrowed, use a damp sponge to smooth the top rim. You can flatten it slightly or round it off depending on your preference.
4. Smooth the surface:
   Run a flexible rubber rib over the entire exterior of the vase. This compresses the clay particles and removes any finger marks or canvas texture from the initial rolling.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. add faux speckles (optional):
   If you are using plain air-dry clay instead of speckled stoneware, now is the time to flick diluted black acrylic paint or brown watercolor onto the damp surface using a toothbrush.
2. Initial drying:
   Loosely cover the vase with plastic and let it dry slowly for 24-48 hours. Slow drying prevents the seams from cracking as the clay shrinks.
3. Bisque fire or dry completely:
   If using ceramic clay, fire the piece to bisque temperature. If using air-dry clay, allow it to dry until it feels room temperature to the touch and chalky.
4. Apply glaze or sealer:
   For ceramic pieces, brush or dip the vase in a clear matte glaze to let the natural clay body show through. For air-dry clay, apply a matte varnish to protect the surface.
5. Final cure:
   Fire the glazed piece again to the clay’s recommended temperature, or let the varnish cure fully before inserting your dried florals.

Now you have a charming vessel ready to grace your windowsill with warm, natural textures

Transform simple air-dry clay into an elegant, rustic centerpiece that mimics the look of aged limestone. This project features a classic bulbous silhouette with carved detailing and a unique porous texture that adds instant history to your decor.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Forming the Base Structure

1. Shape the main base:
   Start with a large ball of clay, roughly the size of a grapefruit. Flatten the bottom against your work surface to create a stable foundation, then gently press down on the top to form a wide, rounded dome shape.
2. Refine the base edge:
   Verticalize the bottom inch of the dome so it has distinct sides rather than just blending into the table. This is where you will add carving later.
3. Create the stem:
   Work a smaller ball of clay into a thick hourglass or bulb shape. This will be the central pillar. Ensure it’s thick enough to support the candle cup without sagging.
4. Form the candle cup:
   Roll a third, smaller ball and flatten it slightly. Press your taper candle into the center to create the perfect-sized socket, wiggling it slightly to ensure a loose enough fit for when the clay shrinks.
5. Assemble the pieces:
   Score the connection points (top of base, bottom of stem, top of stem, bottom of cup) with a needle tool and add a little water to create slip. Press the three components together firmly.
6. Blend the seams:
   Use your fingers or a clay tool to drag clay across the seams where the pieces join. Smooth this out until the transition looks seamless and the structure feels solid.

Step 2: Detailing and Texturing

1. Carve the base design:
   On the vertical edge of the bottom base, use a small loop tool or the back of a paintbrush to press in a row of small, repetitive oval indentations. Keep them evenly spaced for a classical look.
2. Define the silhouette:
   Use a modeling tool to sharpen the ‘neck’ where the stem meets the cup and the base. You want distinct separation between the bulbous shapes.
3. Texturize the surface:
   This is the crucial step for that stone look. Take a stiff toothbrush or a crumpled ball of foil and aggressively tap it all over the surface to ruin the perfect smoothness.
4. Add pitting:
   Poke random, deeper holes with a needle tool or toothpick to simulate natural stone porosity. I like to group a few small holes together for a realistic effect.
5. Embed grit:
   While the clay is still damp, gently press coarse salt or sand into patch areas on the surface. This adds physical grit that mimics hewn stone.

Step 3: Finishing the Faux Stone Look

1. Allow to dry:
   Let the piece dry completely for 24-48 hours. Turn it occasionally to ensure the bottom dries thoroughly.
2. Mix the stone paint:
   Mix your cream acrylic paint with a teaspoon of baking soda. This thickens the paint and gives it a chalky, plaster-like finish.
3. Apply the base coat:
   Paint the entire candle holder with your baking soda mixture. Dab the paint on rather than brushing it to maintain the texture you created.
4. Add dimension:
   Once dry, water down a tiny bit of grey or beige paint. Wash this over the carvings and pitted areas, then quickly wipe the high points with a rag. The dark paint stays in the crevices, highlighting the texture.
5. Seal the piece:
   Finish with a matte spray sealant to protect the finish without adding an artificial sheen.

Place your new sculptural piece on a mantle or sideboard to bring a touch of old-world charm to your modern space

Minimalist and warm, this elongated trough-style incense holder features a beautiful terracotta tone speckled with dark flecks for a natural, stone-like finish. Its simple rectangular form with softened corners makes it a calming addition to any meditation space or living room.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Preparing the Clay

1. Condition the clay:
   Start by warming up your terracotta polymer clay in your hands. Knead it thoroughly until it becomes soft, pliable, and free of any air pockets.
2. Add texture:
   To achieve that organic, speckled look seen in the photo, flatten your clay slightly and sprinkle a pinch of regular ground black pepper or dried coffee grounds onto it. I find pepper gives sharper, smaller specks while coffee provides a chunkier texture.
3. Marbling effect:
   Fold the clay over the darker particles and knead it again. Continue folding and kneading until the specks are evenly distributed throughout the batch.
4. Roll it out:
   Using a rolling pin or an acrylic roller, flatten the clay into an elongated pancake shape. Aim for a consistent thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm) to ensure the base is sturdy.

Step 2: Shaping the Base

1. Cut the rectangle:
   Use a ruler and a craft knife to cut a long, clean rectangle. A good dimension for this project is approximately 2 inches wide by 9 inches long, which provides ample room to catch falling ash.
2. Soften the corners:
   The example has lovely soft edges, so use your finger or a smoothing tool to gently round off the four sharp corners of your rectangle.
3. Form the rim:
   Instead of adding a separate coil, gently pinch the edges of the slab upward. Use your thumb on the inside and forefinger on the outside to lift the perimeter, creating a shallow lip all the way around.
4. Smooth the transition:
   Run your finger along the inner curve where the floor meets the wall to ensure it looks seamless and organic, rather than like a sharp angle.
5. Level the floor:
   Since manipulating the edges might have warped the bottom, press the center of the holder gently to ensure it is flat and won’t wobble on a table.

Step 3: Finishing Details

1. Create the holder hole:
   Decide which end will hold the incense. About one inch from the edge, insert a wooden skewer or toothpick into the clay at a slight angle (pointing towards the long end of the tray).
2. Verify the size:
   Wiggle the toothpick slightly to ensure the hole is wide enough for standard incense sticks. It’s better to make it slightly loose than too tight, as clay can shrink slightly.
3. Refine the surface:
   Dip your finger in a tiny bit of water (for air-dry clay) or baby oil (for polymer clay) and smooth out any fingerprints or rough spots on the rim and surface.
4. Bake or dry:
   If using polymer clay, bake according to the package instructions (usually around 275°F for 15-30 minutes). If using air-dry clay, let it sit in a cool, dry place for 24-48 hours.
5. Sand for finish:
   Once fully cured or dried, use a fine-grit sandpaper to buff the edges and the surface. This reveals more of the speckles and gives the piece that professional, stone-matte feel.
6. Seal (Optional):
   Apply a coat of matte varnish if you want to protect the clay from ash stains, though leaving it raw maintains the earthy texture shown in the image.

Enjoy the peaceful atmosphere your new handmade creation brings to your home

This project captures the trendy industrial-chic look of poured concrete but uses easily moldable polymer or air-dry clay to achieve the effect. The result involves a textured, sandy beige vessel that perfectly frames petite succulents on a sunny windowsill.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Preparation and Base

1. Condition the Clay:
   Begin by warming the stone-effect clay in your hands. Knead it thoroughly until it’s pliable and soft, which prevents cracking later on.
2. Roll the Slab:
   Roll out a portion of the clay into a slab that is roughly 1/4 inch thick. Aim for an even thickness throughout.
3. Cut the Base:
   Using your round cookie cutter, punch out a perfect circle from the slab. This will serve as the bottom of your pot.
4. Prepare the Mold:
   Take your glass votive holder or small jar and dust the outside lightly with cornstarch. This crucial step prevents the clay from fusing to the glass.
5. Set the Base:
   Place the cut clay circle centered on the bottom of your glass mold. Press it down gently to ensure it sits flat.

Step 2: Building the Walls

1. Create the Wall Strip:
   Roll out a long, rectangular strip of clay, maintaining that same 1/4 inch thickness. Ensure the strip is wide enough to cover the height of your mold.
2. Measure the Length:
   Wrap the strip loosely around your glass mold to test the length. Cut it so there is just a slight overlap where the ends meet.
3. Wrap and Join:
   Wrap the clay strip firmly around the glass mold. Where the clay meets the base circle, press the edges together to seal the bottom seam.
4. Seal the Vertical Seam:
   At the vertical overlap on the side, slice through both layers with a craft knife to create a flush butt joint. Remove the excess clay and smooth the two edges together with your finger until the seam disappears.
5. Blend the Bottom:
   Work your thumb around the bottom edge where the wall meets the base, blending the clay upwards until it looks like a single, seamless cup.

Step 3: Refining and Finishing

1. Shape the Rim:
   Trim the top edge of the clay to your desired height. I like to gently round this edge with my fingertip so it isn’t too sharp.
2. Add Texture:
   To mimic the porous look of the pot in the photo, gently tap the exterior with a coarse sponge or an old toothbrush. This adds those realistic little divots.
3. Slight Distressing:
   Press a few larger grains of sand or tiny dried clay crumbs into the surface sporadically to create the ‘imperfect concrete’ aesthetic.
4. Cure the Piece:
   Bake the clay (still on the glass mold) according to the package temperature and time instructions. If using air-dry, let it sit for 24-48 hours.
5. Remove from Mold:
   Once fully cooled (or dry), carefully twist the glass mold to break the cornstarch seal and slide it out of the clay pot.
6. Sand the Exterior:
   Take your sandpaper and lightly scuff the outside. This removes fingerprints and enhances the matte, stony texture.
7. Drill Drainage (Optional):
   If you plan to plant directly into the pot, carefully hand-drill a small hole in the precise center of the bottom.

Once filled with gritty soil and your favorite succulent, your handmade pot will bring a touch of organic warmth to any room

Brighten up your workspace with this chic, minimalist pencil holder featuring soothing abstract waves in earthy tones. The smooth, cylinder shape provides a modern canvas for a simple yet striking paint design that mimics high-end ceramic pieces.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Forming the Cylinder

1. Prepare the workspace:
   Begin by laying down a sheet of parchment paper on a flat surface. This prevents sticking and makes it easier to move your project later.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Take your air-dry clay and knead it briefly to condition it. Roll it out into a long, rectangular slab about 1/4 inch thick. Try to keep the thickness consistent for a professional look.
3. Cut to size:
   Measure the height and circumference of your tin can or jar mold. Cut the clay slab into a rectangle that matches the height and is slightly longer than the circumference (to allow for overlapping or joining).
4. Wrap the mold:
   Wrap your clay rectangle carefully around the tin can. If you are worried about sticking, you can wrap the can in a layer of parchment paper first.
5. Join the seam:
   Where the two ends of the clay meet, score the edges with your knife (make little hash marks) and apply a dab of slip. Press the edges together firmly.
6. Smooth the connection:
   Use your fingers or a flat modeling tool to smooth the seam on the outside until it’s invisible. I find dipping my finger in a tiny bit of water helps blend the clay seamlessly.
7. Create the base:
   Roll out a small separate piece of clay. Place your wrapped cylinder on top of it and trace a circle around the base. Cut this circle out.
8. Attach the base:
   Score and slip the bottom edge of your cylinder and the outer edge of the base circle. Press them together, smoothing the clay upwards from the base to the wall to create a solid seal.

Step 2: Finishing and Painting

1. Initial drying:
   Allow the clay to dry for about 24-48 hours. Keep it away from direct heat sources to prevent cracking. Once the outside feels firm, carefully slide the tin can mold out.
2. Sand until smooth:
   Once fully dry and hard, use fine-grit sandpaper to buff out any fingerprints, bumps, or rough edges on the rim. Wipe away the dust with a slightly damp cloth.
3. Base coat:
   Paint the entire exterior and the inside rim with a cream or beige acrylic paint. This creates that lovely ceramic look. You may need two coats for full coverage.
4. Sketch the design:
   Lightly sketch your wave pattern with a pencil. Draw two parallel wavy lines curving across the center for the warm tones, and a separate curved section at the bottom for the green.
5. Paint the rust wave:
   Using your flat brush, fill in the lower of the two middle waves with the rust/terracotta paint. Keep your hand steady to get a crisp edge.
6. Paint the peach wave:
   Fill in the upper wave with the peach color. It should hug the curve of the rust wave directly above it.
7. Add the mint accent:
   Paint the bottom corner section in mint green. If you go outside the lines, just wait for it to dry and touch it up with the base cream color.
8. Seal the piece:
   Once the paint is completely dry, apply a coat of matte or satin varnish. This protects the paint from chipping and gives it a finished, store-bought quality.

Now you have a stylish home for your favorite pens that brings a calm, artistic vibe to your desk

This minimalist card holder combines the trendy arch shape with a raw, speckled stone finish for a modern desktop accessory. It’s surprisingly weighty and robust, perfect for displaying favorite photos, postcards, or motivational notes.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Prepping the Clay Base

1. Prepare the texture:
   If you aren’t using pre-speckled ‘stone effect’ clay, start by kneading a teaspoon of dried coffee grounds or fine black sand into your white air-dry clay. Fold and press repeatedly until the speckles are evenly distributed throughout the batch.
2. Roll the slab:
   Roll your clay out into a thick, even slab. You want this to be substantial so it stands up on its own, so aim for a thickness of at least ¾ of an inch (about 2 cm).
3. Create the shape:
   Use a large round cookie cutter or a bowl to cut a semi-circle shape from your slab. Alternatively, you can cut a full circle and then slice it exactly in half to create two holders at once. Ensure the bottom edge is perfectly flat so it doesn’t rock.
4. Smooth the edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water and run it along the cut edges to smooth out any harsh angles or burrs left by the cutting tool. The goal is a soft, rounded finish similar to honed stone.

Step 2: Carving the Details

1. Mark the arches:
   Using a dull pencil or a modeling tool, very lightly sketch three concentric arches on the face of your clay piece. Use a ruler to ensure the spacing is consistent between each arch.
2. Carve the relief:
   Take your loop tool or U-shaped carving tool and carefully drag it along the lines you just marked. Press firmly enough to create distinct grooves but be careful not to dig too deep.
3. Refine the cutout:
   For the smallest, innermost arch, cut all the way through the clay to create the negative space ‘tunnel’ seen in the reference photo. I find that smoothing the inside of this small cutout with a wet paintbrush helps clean it up significantly.
4. Clean the grooves:
   Use a damp sponge or your fingertip to soften the edges of your carved grooves. You want the shadows to look soft and molded, rather than sharp and sliced.

Step 3: Creating the Card Slot

1. Cut the slot:
   Using your sharp craft knife or a dedicated clay blade, make a straight cut directly into the center top of the arch. Cut down about half an inch deep.
2. Widen the gap:
   Gently wiggle the blade slightly to widen the cut just enough to fit a standard piece of cardstock. Be careful not to warp the overall shape of the arch while doing this.
3. Insert a spacer:
   Fold a piece of scrap cardstock to the thickness of a photo and insert it into the slot. This prevents the wet clay from shrinking and closing the gap as it dries. Leave this in place until the clay is leather-hard.
4. Final check:
   Look at the piece from all angles to ensure the bottom remains flat and the arches are symmetrical. Tap the bottom gently on your work surface to level it one last time.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

1. Slow drying:
   Place your piece on a clean surface away from direct heat or sunlight. Let it dry slowly for 24-48 hours. Turning it over occasionally helps the bottom dry evenly.
2. Sanding:
   Once fully cured and bone dry, use fine-grit sandpaper to buff away any fingerprints or rough texture on the flat surfaces.
3. Create the matching card:
   While the holder dries, take a piece of white cardstock (approx. 4×6 inches) and draw a simple line-art rainbow that mimics the shape of your clay holder. Add a few whimsical clouds for extra charm.
4. Sealing:
   Apply a thin coat of matte sealant to protect the clay from moisture and stains, preserving that raw stone look.

Place your matching card into the slot and enjoy your harmonious new desk accessory

Elevate your catch-all storage with these stunning nested dishes featuring a rich teal finish and elegant copper bead detailing. The combination of the slightly textured stone-look clay and the metallic rim creates a boutique-worthy piece perfect for holding rings or trinkets.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Shaping the Clay Base

1. Prepare your clay:
   Start by kneading a generous chunk of air-dry clay until it is warm and pliable. This conditioning step is crucial to prevent cracks later on.
2. Roll it out:
   On a clean, flat surface, roll the clay out to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch. Try to keep the thickness consistent so the bowl dries evenly.
3. Prepare the molds:
   Take your nesting bowls (cereal bowls work great) and wrap the outside of them with plastic wrap. This ensures your clay won’t stick to the mold form.
4. Drape the clay:
   Gently lift your rolled clay slab and drape it over the upside-down bowl. Use your hands to smooth the clay down the sides, conforming it to the shape of the bowl.
5. Trim the edges:
   Using a craft knife or a clay tool, trim the excess clay around the rim of the bowl to create a clean, straight edge.
6. Smooth the surface:
   Dip your finger in a little water and run it over the exterior clay to smooth out any fingerprints or rough textures. Repeat this entire process for the second, smaller bowl.
7. Allow to dry:
   Let the clay dry on the molds for 24-48 hours. I find it helps to remove them from the molds halfway through drying to let the inside get some air.

Step 2: Preparing the Accents

1. Sand the bowls:
   Once fully dry, essentially sand the edges and surfaces with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any sharp bits or unevenness.
2. Paint the beads:
   While your bowls are settling, thread your wooden beads onto skewers or toothpicks. Paint them with the metallic copper paint and let them dry completely. You may need two coats for full opacity.

Step 3: Painting and Assembly

1. Base coat the bowls:
   Apply the teal acrylic paint to the inside and outside of your clay bowls using a sponge brush. To get that stone-like texture seen in the photo, dab the paint on rather than stroking it.
2. Add a second coat:
   Let the first layer dry, then apply a second coat if needed for rich, solid color coverage.
3. Dry fit the beads:
   Before gluing, arrange your dry copper beads around the rim of the bowl to ensure you have enough spacing and the correct number of beads.
4. Glue the rim:
   Apply a strong craft glue to the flat rim of the teal bowl. It is best to work in small sections so the glue doesn’t dry out before you place the beads.
5. Attach the beads:
   One by one, press the copper beads onto the glued rim. Ensure the holes of the beads are facing sideways (along the rim line) so you see the smooth round side from above.
6. Touch ups:
   If any glue squeezed out or if the teal paint was scuffed, use a small detail brush to touch up the paint around the bead line.
7. Seal the project:
   Finish by spraying the entire piece with a matte sealant. This protects the paint and gives the clay a cohesive, professional ceramic look.
8. Final cure:
   Let the sealant cure for at least 6-12 hours before placing jewelry or rings inside the dishes.

Display your beautiful new set on a bedside table or vanity for a touch of handmade elegance

Embrace earthy tones and simple shapes with these stunning statement earrings. Combining warm terracotta circles with contrasting arches creates a modern, bohemian accessory perfect for everyday wear.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparing the Clay Shapes

1. Condition the terra cotta clay:
   Begin by taking your rust or terracotta colored polymer clay and warming it up in your hands. Knead and roll it until it is pliable and free of air bubbles.
2. Roll the first slab:
   Using an acrylic roller or a pasta machine, flatten the terracotta clay to an even thickness, approximately 1/8th of an inch (3mm).
3. Cut the top circles:
   Use your small circle cutter to punch out two identical circles from the terracotta slab. These will form the stud portion of the earring.
4. Cut the matching arch:
   From the same terracotta slab, use your arch cutter to punch out one U-shape. Smooth the edges gently with your finger to remove any stray bits of clay.
5. Condition the beige clay:
   Clean your hands or roller to avoid color transfer, then condition the beige or wood-effect clay just as you did with the first color.
6. Create the second arch:
   Roll the beige clay to the same thickness as the first slab. Punch out one arch shape using the same cutter so it perfectly matches the terracotta one in size.

Step 2: Drilling and Baking

1. Punch holes before baking:
   While the clay is still raw, carefully pierce a hole at the very top and bottom of each circle, ensuring they line up vertically. Pierce a single hole at the top center of each arch shape.
2. Smooth the surfaces:
   Do a final check for fingerprints. I like to lightly brush the surface with a tiny bit of cornstarch or baby oil to smooth out imperfections before they harden.
3. Bake the pieces:
   Arrange your four clay pieces on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake according to the specific temperature and time instructions on your package of clay.
4. Cool down completely:
   Once baked, remove the tray from the oven and let the pieces cool completely. Do not try to assemble them while warm, as the clay is still slightly fragile.
5. Sand the edges:
   If there are any sharp or rough edges from the cutting process, use fine-grit sandpaper or a buffing block to gently smooth them out for a professional finish.

Step 3: Assembly

1. Open the jump rings:
   Using two pairs of pliers, twist your gold jump rings open sideways (never pull them apart outward) to maintain their round shape.
2. Connect circle to arch:
   Slide one open jump ring through the hole in the terracotta arch and the bottom hole of one terracotta circle. Close the ring securely with your pliers.
3. Repeat for the second pair:
   Repeat the previous step to connect the beige arch to the second terracotta circle.
4. Attach the earring hooks:
   Open the loop at the bottom of your earring hook (or use a small jump ring if needed). Slide it through the top hole of the terracotta circle.
5. Final check:
   Close the loop on the earring hook securely. Hold the earrings up to ensure all pieces hang forward correctly and the jump rings are fully closed.

Enjoy styling these versatile geometric pieces with your favorite casual outfits

Capture the delicate beauty of nature with this minimalist, earth-toned pendant that features a simple pressed leaf motif. The speckled clay texture gives it an organic, handcrafted feel that perfectly complements the rustic cotton cord hanger.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Prepping and Shaping

1. Condition the clay:
   Start by taking a small ball of clay, roughly the size of a walnut. Knead it in your hands until it becomes soft, pliable, and free of cracks. If you are using plain white clay and want the speckled look shown, you can knead in a sprinkling of black pepper or fine dried coffee grounds before shaping.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Place the clay on a smooth, non-stick surface. Using your rolling pin, flatten the ball into an even slab. You want a thickness of about 4-5mm—thick enough to be sturdy but not so chunky that it becomes heavy.
3. Cut the circle:
   Take your round cookie cutter and press it firmly into the clay slab to create a clean circle. If you don’t have a cutter, you can trace around a small jar lid with a craft knife.
4. Smooth the edges:
   Lift the excess clay away. Dip your finger in a tiny bit of water and gently run it along the cut edge of the circle to smooth out any sharpness or roughness left by the cutter.

Step 2: Creating the Botanical Impression

1. Select your botanical:
   Choose a small, sturdy piece of dried wheat or a fern tip. Ensure the size fits nicely within the circle without going too close to the edges.
2. Position the stamp:
   Lay the plant material gently on top of your clay circle. Think about the composition; centering it usually works best for this simple style.
3. Press the design:
   Using the rolling pin, roll gently but firmly over the plant material once. Do not roll back and forth, as this might shift the image. Alternatively, you can press it down evenly with a flat object like an acrylic block.
4. Reveal the pattern:
   Carefully find the stem of your plant and peel it away from the clay. Do this slowly to ensure you don’t mar the impression. You should be left with a crisp, debossed design.
5. Add the hole:
   Use a straw or a cocktail stick to poke a hole near the top of the pendant. Twist the tool slightly as you push it through to keep the hole clean. Make sure it’s not too close to the edge to prevent breakage later.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Drying time:
   Set the pendant aside in a dry, safe place. If using air-dry clay, let it cure for at least 24-48 hours. I find flipping it over halfway through the process helps it dry flat.
2. Baking (if polymer):
   If you chose polymer clay, bake it according to the manufacturer’s instructions on the packet, usually around 275°F (130°C) for 15-30 minutes.
3. Sanding:
   Once fully cured, inspect the edges. If there are any rough spots, gently buff them away with fine-grit sandpaper for a professional finish.
4. Seal (optional):
   For durability, you can apply a thin coat of matte varnish. This protects the clay from moisture without altering the natural, earthy look.
5. Attach the cord:
   Cut a length of natural cotton cord. Thread one end through the hole in your pendant.
6. Secure the loop:
   Tie a simple knot just above the pendant to secure it in place so the charm sits centered on the cord.
7. Finish the necklace:
   Tie the two loose ends of the cord together at your desired length, trim any excess, and your nature-inspired charm is ready to wear.

Enjoy wearing this lovely piece of nature-inspired art close to your heart

These elegant, minimalist plant stakes bring a touch of artisanal charm to your indoor herb garden with their warm, terra cotta-like finish and clean botanical lines. The simple, elongated shape serves as a perfect canvas for stamped or carved designs, making labeling your seedlings both functional and beautiful.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Shaping the Base

1. Prepare the Clay:
   Begin by kneading a ball of your air-dry clay until it is soft and pliable. If the clay feels dry or crumbly, dip your fingers in a tiny bit of water and work it in.
2. Roll it Out:
   Place the clay on a sheet of parchment paper or a clean craft mat. Use your rolling pin to flatten the clay to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm). This thickness ensures the marker remains sturdy once dry.
3. Measure the Width:
   Using a ruler, lightly mark a strip about 1 inch (2.5cm) wide. This width gives you plenty of room for the design while keeping the classic marker aesthetic.
4. Cut the Sides:
   Hold the ruler firmly against your marks and use a sharp craft knife or clay blade to slice a long, straight strip. Remove the excess clay and set it aside for future markers.
5. Shape the Top:
   Decide on the height—around 5-6 inches is ideal for small pots. At the top of your strip, freehand or use a stencil to cut two angled lines meeting at a central point, creating a ‘picket fence’ or rooftop shape.
6. Refine the Edges:
   Dip your finger in a little water and gently run it along the cut edges. This smooths out any sharpness or burrs left by the blade, giving the piece a professional, finished look.

Step 2: Adding the Design

1. Draft the Leaf:
   Before carving, lightly sketch your leaf design onto the clay surface using a needle tool or toothpick. Start with a central vertical line and add angled veins extending outwards.
2. Carve the Outline:
   Using a fine carving tool or the tip of your craft knife, retrace your sketched outline with deeper pressure. I find shallow cuts work best here to mimic the look of etched wood.
3. Deepen the Veins:
   Go back over the internal vein lines to ensure they are distinct. The lines should be clean and not too jagged; clean up any clay crumbs with a soft brush.
4. Alternative: Stamping:
   If you prefer not to carve, you can press a rubber leaf stamp firmly into the wet clay at this stage instead of drawing.
5. Initial Drying:
   Leave the marker flat on the parchment paper to begin drying. Placing a light object, like a piece of cardboard, on top can help prevent warping as moisture evaporates.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Full Cure:
   Allow the clay to dry completely according to the package instructions, which usually takes 24 to 48 hours. The color will lighten as it dries.
2. Sanding:
   Once fully hard, check the edges again. Use a piece of fine-grit sandpaper to gently buff away any remaining roughness, paying special attention to the pointed tip.
3. Dusting Off:
   Wipe the marker down with a dry cloth or soft brush to remove all fine sanding dust.
4. Highlighting (Optional):
   If you want the engraved lines to pop, you can run a diluted brown acrylic wash into the grooves and wipe the surface clean, leaving color only in the recesses.
5. Sealing:
   To protect your marker from the damp soil, apply a coat of matte varnish or acrylic sealant. Focus especially on the bottom half that will be submerged in the dirt.
6. Second Coat:
   Let the first coat dry, then apply a second layer of sealant to ensure a watertight barrier.
7. Placement:
   Once the sealant is cured, your custom marker is ready to be gently pressed into the soil next to your basil or favorite herb.

Now you have a charming set of custom markers ready to organize your windowsill garden

Embrace the simplified beauty of line art with this charming minimalist vase, featuring a gently speckled surface and a serene, drowsy face. This project transforms a modest amount of clay into a functional piece of décor that feels both modern and hand-touched.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Forming the Vase Body

1. Prepare your clay:
   Start by kneading your air-dry clay until it is warm and pliable. If you want that speckled look but only have plain clay, now is the time to knead in some dried coffee grounds or black pepper.
2. Roll out the slab:
   Roll the clay out into a large, even rectangle, aiming for about 1/4 inch thickness. Ensure the slab is wide enough to wrap fully around your chosen glass jar or bottle form.
3. Cut the base:
   Place your glass jar on the remaining rolled clay and trace around the bottom with your knife to create a circular base for your vase.
4. Wrap the form:
   Carefully lift your rectangular slab and wrap it around the glass jar. I find it easiest to stand the jar up and bring the clay to it, rather than rolling the jar.
5. Create the seam:
   Where the two ends of the clay meet, cut vertically through both overlapping layers. Remove the excess scraps to create a perfect butt joint.
6. Score and slip:
   Score (scratch) the edges of the seam and the edge of the circular base. Apply a little slip and press the edges firmly together to bond them.
7. Smooth the exterior:
   Use your thumb or a modeling tool to blend the seam until it disappears completely. Smooth the clay upward to create a seamless cylinder.

Step 2: Shaping and Refining

1. Shape the neck:
   Gently squeeze the top portion of the clay cylinder inward to create a tapered neck. If your glass jar has a neck, mold the clay to follow that curve.
2. Soften the rim:
   Trim the top edge with your knife to make it level, then use a damp sponge to round off the sharp lip of the vase.
3. Drying mechanism:
   Allow the clay to dry until it is leather hard—firm but still cold to the touch. If you can carefully slide the glass jar out now, do so to help the interior dry.
4. Final drying:
   Let the piece dry completely for 24-48 hours. The clay will lighten significantly in color and feel room temperature when fully cured.
5. Sanding:
   Once bone dry, take fine-grit sandpaper and gently sand away any fingerprints, bumps, or rough texture, paying special attention to the rim and the original seam.

Step 3: Adding the Personality

1. Draft the face:
   Lightly sketch the abstract face design onto the vase using a pencil. Focus on a long, continuous nose line that connects to the brows.
2. Paint the lines:
   Using a black paint pen or a fine liner brush with black acrylic, trace over your pencil lines. Keep your hand steady and maintain a consistent line weight.
3. Add details:
   Add the downward-curved eyelashes and the small, simple oval for the lips. The minimalism is key here, so avoid over-adding features.
4. Seal the piece:
   To protect the surface and the paint, apply two light coats of matte spray varnish in a well-ventilated area.
5. Final styling:
   Because air-dry clay isn’t waterproof, always use a glass insert or dried botanicals like eucalyptus and baby’s breath when styling your new vase.

Place your finished vase near a window where the natural light can highlight the subtle texture and simple lines

Elevate your game night with a sophisticated, minimalist domino set that feels wonderful to hold. These creamy white tiles feature deep, painted pips and soft, rounded edges for a look that is both modern and timeless.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Prepping and Shaping

1. Condition the Clay:
   Begin by conditioning your polymer clay in your hands until it becomes soft and pliable. If you want that specific creamy, natural look shown in the photo, try mixing bright white clay with a tiny amount of translucent or ecru clay.
2. Roll an Even Slab:
   Place your clay on parchment paper. Using thickness guides or stacks of playing cards on either side, roll the clay out into a uniform slab. Aim for a thickness of about 1/4 inch (6mm) to give the dominoes a substantial, quality weight.
3. Cut the Tiles:
   Use your rectangular clay cutter to punch out 28 tiles. If you don’t have a cutter, you can measure a grid and cut carefully with a blade, but a cutter ensures uniformity. I prefer to wipe the cutter edge with a bit of cornstarch occasionally to prevent sticking.
4. Soften the Edges:
   Gently tap the sides of each rectangle with your finger to remove sharp cutting lines. You want the edges to look slightly tumbled and soft, not mechanically straight.

Step 2: Detailing the Pips

1. Mark the Midline:
   Using a blunt tool or the back of a knife, gently press a shallow line across the center of each tile to divide it into two squares. Don’t cut through; just create an indentation.
2. Imprint the Dots:
   To create the pips, firmly press your small round tool (like a small piping tip or stylus) into the clay. Don’t just paint the dots on later; the indentation adds depth and texture.
3. Follow the System:
   Methodically mark your tiles following the standard double-six domino system (double blank up to double six). Keep a reference image of a full set nearby so you don’t miss a combination.
4. Clean Up Edges:
   If the dot-pressing process distorted the rectangular shape slightly, gently reshape the sides with your fingers or a flat tool one last time before baking.

Step 3: Baking and Finishing

1. Bake the Set:
   Arrange the tiles on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake according to your specific clay brand’s instructions (usually around 275°F/135°C for 30 minutes). Let them cool completely before handling.
2. Sand for Smoothness:
   Once cool, lightly sand the edges and back of each tile with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any fingerprints or imperfections. This makes them pleasant to hold during play.
3. Flood the Pips:
   Dip your fine paintbrush into black acrylic paint. Carefully fill each indented dot. If you get paint on the surface, quickly wipe it away with a damp paper towel or baby wipe while it’s still wet.
4. Let Paint Dry:
   Allow the paint to dry completely. If the black looks patchy, a second thin coat inside the dots will make them opaque and crisp.
5. Seal (Optional):
   For extra durability, you can brush a thin layer of matte varnish over the tiles. This protects the white clay from getting dirty over time, though leaving them raw has a lovely tactile quality.

Now you have a beautiful, heirloom-quality game set ready for your next gathering